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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey All,
Sunday, September 1, 2019, Morning Update:

After all the morning chores are done (clean up the cat's breakfast mess, take the Psyllium Husk, feed Roslimbeo, and update the Day's Diary) will be connecting Lorrie Van Haul's Quick Disconnect Battery Switch, and Starting Lorrie's MIGHTY 225 Slant Six Engine. Will back her out to the End of the Driveway, then pull her forward, making sure that her Front Wheels are going STRAIGHT AHEAD. Will park her, and remove her Drag Link.

Will then Center the Sector Shaft on the Worm Gear using the Yellow Marks on the Case&Sector Shaft.

Will then remove the Steering Wheel, after which will photograph the Disnovation that was necessary to get the TOTALLY different Steering Shaft to work.

Once photographed, will reinstall the Steering Wheel CENTERED on the Steering Shaft, and we're ready to start, in earnest on the Drag Link.

First will come CLEANING it.

Next will come measuring the distance between the NOW Centered Pitman Arm's Drag Link Mounting Hole, and the Drag Link Mounting Hole on the Spindle Arm.

Photographing the Drag Links ENDS will then be done in order to identify the kinds of Ends that are needed on the NEW Drag Link. That is, of course, if we ACTUALLY do get a NEW Drag Link. It might be just as good, and maybe less expensive to have the ORIGINAL Drag Link LENGTHENED. Will make THAT decision when the time comes.

That is the PHYSICAL part of the Day's Activity.

On another note: The Weather Guessers are predicting temperature of 101 degrees here on Thursday and Friday! We'll see.

Anyway, it's now time to do the morning chores, and get on with the day. Will, of course, keep you all updated if, when, and as progress occurs.

Take care everyone.

JC
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hey All,
Sunday, September, 1, 2019, A Little Past Early Afternoon Update:

Lorrie Van Haul's MIGHTY 225 Slant Six Engine hadn't run for quite some time. Put a shot of Gas in her Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor, turned on the Run Switch, activated the Start Switch, and Lorrie started right up. Let her run for five minutes, then put her A727 TorqueFlite Transmission in Reverse, and backed her up. Put the Transmission into Drive and drove her Straight Ahead almost to where she had be sitting, and shut her down. Her Front Wheels are Centered.

Got out all the Tools, Equipment, and Materials. Put down clean Rugs.

Felt the Pitman Arm. It had a teenincy bit of play. Got out the Electric Impact Wrench and tightened the Fasteners. Couldn't get the play out of the Pitman Arm, but it can't come off without completely removing the Fasteners. Don't like the idea of having a loose Pitman Arm, but that is just Lorrie being Lorrie.

Took the Castellated Nut off of the Drag Link at the Pitman Arm, and adjusted the Sector Shaft's relation to the Worm Gear, aligning the Yellow Marks on the Gear Case, and the Sector Shaft put there by Lares Corporation, and VOILA' the Pitman Arm is NOT loose. What was loose was the Sector Shaft to Worm Gear when NOT Centered.

So then it was time to remove the Drag Link off of the Spindle Arm.

Pulled the Cotter Pin, put a proper sized Socket on the Castellated Nut, and with an 18" Breaker Bar, couldn't budge the Castellated Nut.

Archimedes said: "Give me a lever long enough... and I shall move the world."

Got out THREE 12" Extensions, added them to the length of the Breaker Bar, and the Castellated Nut came RIGHT OFF easy peasy.

Then it was time to pull the Tapered Connector. Alas, the Puller that is here is too big to adequately GRAB the Spindle Arm.

Thought the Gap in the Puller could be lessened by whacking it with a BFH.

Did this

Didn't help

Didn't want to force it so got a BIGGER BFH. That helped a little, and so we tried to remove the Drag Link from the Spindle Arm.

Drenched the Taper with KROIL and started trying to take the Drag Link Loose. Had the Joint under a TREMENDOUS amount of tension, but it wouldn't come loose. Am taking a break to let the KROIL do it job.

Am needing something to eat.

Anyway, will keep you all updated if, when, and as progress occurs.

JC
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey All,
Sunday, September 1, 2019, Late Afternoon-Early Evening Update:

Have watched ALL of the YouTube Videos about HOW to remove a Drag Link from a Steering Arm. Don't want to use the Pickle Fork. The Puller won't work because the Metal around the "Eye" (that's apparently the REAL name for the Tapered Hole in the Steering Arm) isn't wide enough for the Puller to grab on.

So there's one method left: Hitting one side of the Metal around the Eye with a BFH, while holding an even BIGGER BFH on the other side. This is supposed to "SHOCK" the Joint, and it's supposed to come loose.

Well there is no way in Gehenna that THAT is going to be done from UNDER Lorrie Van Haul's Front Axle.

But it MIGHT be able to be done if the Right Front Tire is removed.

The only thing in the way would be the Right Front Brake Assembly, and the TOP of the Brake Assembly is roughly at the same level as the Steering Arm Eye

Don't have a Four Pound and an Eight Pound Sledge, but do have a Long Handled Framing Hammer, and a Sixteen Pound Splitting Maul.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Splitting_maul

Am thinking that the Maul could be supported on the Brake Assembly on the Left Side of the Eye, and the Framing Hammer could hit the OTHER side, and the Joint should come loose.

So in preparation to do that in the morning, have jacked up the Right Front Wheel, Put a Jack Stand under the Axle, and tried to take the Lug Nuts off with a Lug Wrench. Wasn't strong enough to do that. So got out the Electric Impact Wrench, and took those puppies off, then put them back on finger tight.

When finished, am going to put them back on with NeverSeize. Going to do ALL the Lug Nuts on all four Wheels. BTW, the Port Side Lug Nuts on Lorrie are LeftyTighties, but you guys already knew that, RIGHT?

I never let the people who deal with the Tires on Ms. American or Lorrie Van Haul use Air Tools on the Lug Nuts. I insist they let me use the Lug Wrench to tighten the Lug Nuts by hand. But today, it appeared that the Lug Nuts had rusted on the Studs. Am going to have to be more careful about letting that happen.

In any case, all that will have to be done tomorrow morning is take off the Lug Nuts, and the Right Front Wheel to have access to the Steering Arm. Am going to use the Padded Work Gloves to wield the Hammers.

On another note: In the past few months, have done Lorrie's Door Handles. Done Lorries Sheet Metal Center Section. Started Lorrie's Herculiner Bed Liner Paint Job. Removed Lorrie's Steering System, Built a Shipping Case to send it in. Got the Steering System back, and reinstalled, and am now in the Drag Link Caper.

At 80 years old, am able to put in a six to eight hour work day in the Summer Heat! Am in better shape than I was at the beginning of Spring!

Anyway, it's time to feed the Felines, and take the Meds and head for the Bed. BIG DAY TOMORROW. Will keep you all updated if, when, and as progress occurs.

JC
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey All,
Saturday, September 2, 2019, Morning Update:

Will be removing Lorrie Van Haul's Right Front Tire this morning after having taken care of the daily chores. Am hoping better access to the Steering Arm/Drag Link connection will make it possible to get it to come apart.

Was nonplussed about how the Lug Nuts were frozen to the Studs. Before putting the Lug Nuts back on, am going to clean the studs with a Wire Brush Wheel in the Electric Drill, and then put NeverSeize on them. While at it, will do ALL four Wheels the same way.

If the Drag Link Caper is successful, will be either ordering a NEW Drag Link, or figuring out how to lengthen the ORIGINAL Drag Link to fit the NEW distance between the Pitman Arm and the Steering Arm, the result of having Lorrie's Gemmer Y4D-335 rebuilt.

Have to say that there is a bit of apprehension and trepidation because the need to do this is apparently the result of Lorrie having been in crashes, that when repaired resulted in altered Steering Geometry. The repairs MAY have been done with expediency in mind rather than doing it right, and now trying to make it right might reveal other problems that are not being presently recognized. Will just have to wait and see.

What is being hoped for is that Lorrie will be drive-able again like she was before but without the looseness in the Steering. Again, will just have to wait and see.

Bad news from the Weather Guessers... They are predicting three days of 102 degree temperatures starting on Thursday. Am hoping that their record of being wrong most of time continues to hold true. The Summer up to this point has been rather mild here. What is NOT needed is a HEAT WAVE.

Anyway, everything happens when it's supposed to happen. Will keep you all updated if, when, and as progress occurs.

JC
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Coosawjack said:
WOW... THE SAGA(S) continue on THREE FRONTS...
Hey Jack,
"THREE FRONTS"?
you are a busy boy JC...
"Ad hoc, ad loc, and quid pro quo. So much to do. So far to go." (Yellow Submarine-Nowhere Man-Beatles)
GOOD LUCK with the drag link!! ;) :)
Thanquew. Have an amazing update coming. Stay tuned.

JC
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey All,
Saturday, September 2, 2019, Mid-Morning Update:

THIS ACTUALLY HAPPENED: At 8:50 a.m. (my time (I don't do DST)), 9:50 a.m. (your time), had been beating on Lorrie Van Haul's Drag Link for about two hours, using different configurations, doing all sorts of things too numerous to mention, or even remember.

Of a sudden, I looked up in the Wheel Well and noticed the Shock Absorbers, and how EASY PEASY it would be to install NEW ONES.

Said out loud to Lorrie: "If you'll let go of this Drag Link in the next twenty beats, I'll get you all NEW Shock Absorbers."

Then went back to hammering on the Drag Link at a somewhat slower rate, counting out loud. Got to twenty, and nothing happened.

Said out loud to Lorrie: "Well, so much for let's make a deal!"

Went back to hammering, and on the fifth blow, THE DRAG LINK CAME LOOSE!

Said: "Lorrie, YOU are such a tease!" (Twenty-five was close enough. Lorrie gets NEW Shock Absorbers!)

The Drag link is OFF.

Had already made sure that the Gemmer Y4D-335's Yellow Lines (put on by Lares Corporation) were aligned, and had measured from the Center of the Stud sticking up through the Steering Arm to the Center of the Hole in Pitman Arm. It was 24.125" (Two feet, and an eighth of an inch).

Am going to go back out after finishing this Update, and with the Electric Drill, and a Wire Brush Wheel, am going to clean Lorrie's Right Front Lug Studs, then put the Wheel back on, and install the Lug Nuts with NeverSeize.

BTW, the Wheel and Courser GT Tire is HEAVY! But have an idea on HOW to get it back on the Axle: While doing the hammering on the Drag Link, had put down a Cushion to kneel on. Am going to fold that Cushion in thirds, and will then roll the tire up onto the Cushion, and it will be at the right height to go onto the Lug Studs without having to LIFT the Wheel&Tire!

Will then jack up Lorrie's Left Front Axle, remove the Jack Stand, and put Lorrie Back on the Ground.

Then will come an interesting part of the Caper. Am going to Remove&Center the Steering Wheel. Will be taking JPGs of the re-installation. Will include them in an appropriate Update:

Anyway, REAL PROGRESS made this morning. Will keep you all updated if, when, and as progress occurs.

JC
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey All,
Saturday, August 2, 2019, Noon Update:

Can't get the Wheel&Tire back on Lorrie's Right Front Axle. It's just too much for me. Lorrie is on a Jack Stand so nothing is going to happen, but would like to have her back on the ground. Her Lug Studs are clean, and have KROIL on them. The Wheel&Tire are leaning against her just behind the Starboard side Door. The Cushion idea didn't work.

Anyway, may keep you all updated if, when, and as progress occurs.

JC
 

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Roll the wheel up on a 5-6 foot long piece plywood and LEVER it up into place........about a foot behind the wheel and the rest out front.......lift gently and......VOILA.......You're Welcome!! ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Coosawjack said:
Roll the wheel up on a 5-6 foot long piece plywood and LEVER it up into place........about a foot behind the wheel and the rest out front.......lift gently and......VOILA.......You're Welcome!! ;D
Hey Jack,
Thanks for the tip. Next time Ms. American takes me to Livingston, will get a piece of plywood. Am planning on going to Livingston maybe around the middle of February of 2020 for shoes from Wal*Mart.

Anyway, see today's next Update:

JC
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey All,
Saturday, September 2, 2019, Early-Mid-Afternoon Update:

Had the aerosol can of NeverSeize with the little Red Straw.

Went out to where Lorrie was awaiting the mounting of her Right Front Tire.

Put NeverSeize on top of each Lug Stud. Turned the Brake Drum 180 degrees, and gave each Lug Stud another shot of NeverSeize.

Positioned the Lug Studs on the Brake Drum with one at the VERY Top.

Positioned the Wheel&Tire in front of the Brake Drum with one Lug Stud Hole at the VERY Top.

Have TWO Crow Bars. Put one in front of the Wheel&Tire, one Behind the Wheel&Tire, and lifted both of them evenly. The Wheel&Tire went up, and when it was ABOVE the Lug Studs, it slipped DOWN the Crow Bars, and onto the Studs like MAGIC!

Put the Lug Nuts on each Lug Stud, and with my left shoulder pressed against the back of the Tire to keep it from turning, tightened the Lug Nuts with the Lug Wrench.

Jacked up the Right Front Axle high enough to remove the Jack Stand. Checked to see if everything was clear, and let the Jack down. Went back and tightened the Lug Nuts. Job done&done.

Cleaned up the tools, brought the NEWLY extracted Drag Link to the Bench, and am going to clean it.

Next thing is to center the Steering Wheel with JPGs.

Anyway, will keep you all updated if, when, and as progress occurs. Stay tuned.

JC
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey All,
Saturday, September 2, 2019, Late Afternoon Update:

Have leveled Lorrie Van Haul's Steering Wheel with the Gemmer Y4D-335's Sector Shaft centered on the Worm Gear. There are JPGs below.

When Lorrie was backed up, and then pulled forward with the Wheels pointed Straight Ahead, the Steering Wheel Spokes were Level.

The FIRST JPG shows the position of the Steering Wheel after the Drag Link was removed from the Pitman Arm, and the Steering Wheel turned till the YELLOW MARKS (put there by Lares Corporation) on the Gear Case, and the Sector Shaft aligned, which indicates that the Sector Shaft is CENTERED on the Worm Gear. The thing that has to be done is to remove the Steering Wheel, and re-position it so that the Spokes are Level.

The SECOND JPG show the Steering Column Jacket Bell looking at the Bearing in which the Steering Shaft Turns. Notice at about 11:00 there is a bit off a Gap. That is the Tapered Washer with the Gap in it installed behind the Bearing, and held in place (instead of slipping down the Steering Shaft) by a Snap Ring.

The THIRD JPG shows the entire Bearing. It is on this Bearing that a Thrust Washer rides.

The FOURTH JPG shows a Rubber "O-Ring" that keeps debris from getting into the Bearing.

The FIFTH JPG show the Thrust Washer that fits inside the O-Ring.

The SIXTH JPG show FOUR more washers and a Snap Ring. Will explain their inclusion a little further on.

The SEVENTH JPG shows the O-Ring, and Thrust Washer installed just above the Bearing.

The EIGHTH JPG shows THREE of the FOUR Washers shown in JPG Number Six installed above the Thrust Washer.

The NINTH JPG shows the Snap Ring on the Third of the FOUR Washers. The reason it is there will be in the explanation of the need for the FOUR Washers a little further on.

The TENTH JPG show the Fourth of the FOUR Washers installed on top of the Snap Ring. Explanation a little further on.

The ELEVENTH JPG shows the underside of the Steering Wheel. Notice the round Protrusion on the bottom. That Protrusion needs to be solid against the Bearing's Thrust Washer, but it isn't long enough to reach. That is why the FOUR Washers had to be added on top of the Thrust Washer. But, it was still to short by just a teenincy bit. Thus the Snap Ring between the Third and Fourth Washer was added to provide the necessary thickness for the Protrusion. Without the Snap Ring, the part of the Steering Wheel that fits down into the Bell on the Top of the Steering Column Jacket would rub enough to keep the Steering Wheel from turning freely. Once the Washers and Snap Ring were added, the Steering Wheel could be put on the Steering Shaft with the Spokes level.

The TWELFTH JPG shows the Steering Wheel installed with the Spokes level.

The THIRTEENTH JPG shows the Hex Nut that hold the Steering Wheel on the Splines with the Protrusion fitting down against the Washer/Snap Ring Spacer Stack, without rubbing on the Bell on top of the Steering Column Jacket. The Hex Nut installed is five and a half turns onto the Threads on the Steering Shaft. Am going to Loc-Tite it in place.

The FOURTEENTH JPG show a Lid off of a Candle Jar that acts as a Center for the Steering Wheel.

The FIFTEENTH JPG shows the Candle Jar Lid in place.

Anyway, the Steering Column Shaft, and Jacket are mounted solidly. The Jacket is fastened at the bottom to the Gear Case where the Steering Shaft goes into the Case. It is also fastened solidly to the under side of the Instrument Panel.

All that is needed now is a 24.125" Drag Link and Lorrie will be drivable. Will be ordering that Drag Link tomorrow.

There is a Turn Signal Switch that still needs Installation&Connection.

There is still much to do: Finish the Herculiner Bed Liner Application. Give the rest of the Lug Nuts the NeverSeize treatment. But the MAIN part of getting Lorrie's Steering fixed is pretty much done.

Anyway, will keep you all updated if, when, and as progress occurs.

JC
 

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    Kroil is excellent isn't it.      KROIL and JB non-embedding bore paste is excellent for cleaning copper fouled rifle barrels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Coosawjack said:
BRAVO JC!! ;D
I just figgered you had a piece of scrap plywood......but instead you had 2 "HIGH TECH" crowbars......GOOD SHOW!! ;)
Hey Jack,
Won't get around to doing anything about this as today is errand day. Much to do, and because of conditions here beyond my control, will probably not get around to doing this till tomorrow, including not responding to present posts.

Will be back when everything is back under control.

JC
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
KurtfromLaQuinta said:
Things are looking up! I've had that problem with rust on the wheel studs. I now use a small dab of wheel bearing grease on them... never rust again. I've never had a problem with them loosing up either.
Hey Mr. KLQ,
Won't get around to doing anything about this as today is errand day. Much to do, and because of conditions here beyond my control, will probably not get around to doing this till tomorrow, including not responding to present posts.

Will be back when everything is back under control.

JC
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Jeffy45 said:
Kroil is excellent isn't it. KROIL and JB non-embedding bore paste is excellent for cleaning copper fouled rifle barrels.
Hey J45,
Won't get around to doing anything about this as today is errand day. Much to do, and because of conditions here beyond my control, will probably not get around to doing this till tomorrow, including not responding to present posts.

Will be back when everything is back under control.

JC
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hey All,
Saturday, September 3, 2019, Late Afternoon Update:

Started cleaning Lorrie Van Haul's Drag Link. Did the Ball Joints first. It is TOAST! JPGs below.

First THREE are of the Pitman Arm End.
Next THREE are of the Steering Arm End.

Notice that the Pitman Arm End is worn more on one side than on the other. That's because the Sector Shaft was NOT centered on the Worm Gear. That condition has been like that since Lorrie worked for the United States Postal Service. Their Mechanics are the ones who set her Gemmer Y4D-335 up that way.

Poor Lorrie. But we are HOPEFULLY fixing that.

Am going to have to find the Calipers here, to measure the Diameter of the Ball Stud at the Base and at the Threads, and the Length of the Taper between them. That will give us the Degree of the Taper. Think it should be 7 degrees. Will also have to find out the Thread Count and Diameter of the Threaded Part of the Ball Stud.

But just the worn Ball Joints on the Drag Link alone was contributing to the LOOSENESS of the Steering.

Anyway, will keep you all updated if, when, and as progress occurs.

JC
 

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