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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I get some tax money back I'm gonna put new springs and maybe some fender flares on my 79 RC, NP203, NP435.

I run 33x12.50 BFG AT's and the front tires rub when it's turned in a bind. I've got 2" blocks in the front (yeah, I know that's bad) and 3 3/8" blocks in the rear. It sits pretty level, the front sits just barely higher than the rear. My front springs have a slight negative arch but the rear springs have a pretty good positive arch with a little sag from age I'm sure. It doesn't take much to make the front springs bottom out on the stoppers (I'm talking like a 4" pot hole and they'll bottom out)

I want a lift that's as painless as possible, without having to do a steering block or any major adjustments due to increased angles. If I can keep the tires from rubbing and the front from bottoming out I'll be happy. What's the best lift I can get to fit my needs? The truck rarely sees much trail (but some) and is mostly a pavement pounder in the winter.
I'm hoping that a 4" lift kit will be all I need.

And I like those flares that are on Sam's RC...but those cut outs on Rocky Mountain's website sure are expensive...

Oh and does anyone know where to get the whole swaybar link for a 79?

-Mag
 

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To answer your question. 4 inches is about as high as you can go with out having to do anything to your steering. But your truck will wander all over the place because of the angles of the draglink and such. At least get the drop pitman arm. Its the easist way to correct your steering. Now for the swaybar, are you talking a stock one or one for a lifted application? If its lifted the only way to get one is to make it yourself. And from what I've heard if you get new lift springs you won't need your sway bar because the springs are stiff enough to compensate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The swaybar I have on it is stock...but the passenger side link is broke. The eye of the swaybar just kinda sits on top of the connecting rod. I've seen a good custom setup for the sway bar and I'll make one if I have to after the lift. What can I measure to see how high above the stock height I am right now? I think I only need about 2 more inches to make the tire quit rubbing.
 

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There is so much variance in springs that there is no correct answer. It sounds like your springs are stock. The stock springs in the front are supposed to be almost flat with a little positive arch, but yours are negative. I've never seen a lift spring that has a negative arch to it permanently because its that wore out. Regardless of what you do get rid of that block in the front.
 
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