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does anyone know how to hook up a flame thrower ignitor on the tail pipes like the old school cars had?
tail pipe ignitor?
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From what I understand, it's just a spark plug threaded into the pipe like 6-8" from the end with a second coil to drive it. Not sure if your ECU would support 2 coils firing simultaneously tho. Might burn something out... Maybe wire in a second ECU box? I'm sure they SELL driver boxes for them, but all you need is a circuit to make/break the circuit to the coil rapidly. Shouldn't be too hard or expensive to build. Hell, even a "door buzzer" type relay arrangement might do it.
Matt {peace}
Edit: An afterthought, If you have a catalytic converter, there probably won't be enough unburned fuel in the exhaust to make a flame. You are also supposed to choke the carb a little right before you hit the switch to richen up the exhaust.
Matt {peace}
Edit: An afterthought, If you have a catalytic converter, there probably won't be enough unburned fuel in the exhaust to make a flame. You are also supposed to choke the carb a little right before you hit the switch to richen up the exhaust.
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Honestly i think something like this is kinda immature and old school and uncool. This is 2004 and cars are suppose to be cleaner burning. Generally there isn't enough unburnt fuel to make flames, especially with todays better ignition parts.Rebel Ram said:
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They sell an "exciter box" to acomplish this.
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well first off this aint for me my father in law asked me to find out one of his customers asked him to install a set on his 56 led sled. immature? how? some ppl should post on some thing they dont like untill the find the full story........ and to the rest of u who have helped me thanks.chrysler300le said:
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There are kits made for this, but it can be done yourself. The hard part is you have to cut the engine ignition (momentarily) to do it properly, and as said above, you cannot have any catalytic converters.
Basically, you choke out the engine right before flipping the switch that cuts the engine ignition while activating the tailpipe "ignition". This dumps raw fuel down the pipes, which is then ignited by the spark plug and second ignition. To keep it running, you need to flip the switch back fairly quick...it doesn't take long to ignite the fuel in the pipes.
Of course, all of this is terrible on your engine. Cutting the ignition and allowing raw fuel to dump in the exhaust washes the cylinder walls, and if you are not running high enough rpms, you get a MEAN backfire....stuff can catch fire quickly. Don't ask why I know.
I wouldn't recommend doing this on any engine you wanted to last more than 50k miles. If you are going to do it, get the kit (I believe Jegs has it, have seen them advertised on HP TV)
Oh, BTW. These are 100% illegal in all states last I checked.
-SM
Basically, you choke out the engine right before flipping the switch that cuts the engine ignition while activating the tailpipe "ignition". This dumps raw fuel down the pipes, which is then ignited by the spark plug and second ignition. To keep it running, you need to flip the switch back fairly quick...it doesn't take long to ignite the fuel in the pipes.
Of course, all of this is terrible on your engine. Cutting the ignition and allowing raw fuel to dump in the exhaust washes the cylinder walls, and if you are not running high enough rpms, you get a MEAN backfire....stuff can catch fire quickly. Don't ask why I know.
I wouldn't recommend doing this on any engine you wanted to last more than 50k miles. If you are going to do it, get the kit (I believe Jegs has it, have seen them advertised on HP TV)
Oh, BTW. These are 100% illegal in all states last I checked.
-SM
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I think all Rc's should have them, so when you pull up next to the slammed ricer you can "fix" their car.
joking
joking
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l have a freind with this setup on his 57 chevy lowrider / he has a window washer bottle in the trunk with white gas in it [coleman camp stove stuff] with hoses run to the tail pipe in front of the spark plugs about a foot from the end / he flips the switch and revs it and it blows about a three foot flame out the tail pipes / he has it jetted so it gives the right amount of gas / it works good but l still think he,s crazy
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Here's a simple circuit using a momentary switch to both cut power to the ignition coil while at the same time activating the flame coil. When you release the switch, the ignition coil re-energizes, and the flamethrower remains on because of the latching relay. The diode (1N4001) is to allow the relay to latch (hold itself on) without a load of extra wiring and another relay. The capacitor (10uF) provides a tiny amount of reserve current to keep the relay from disengaging in the millisecond while the switch is between "On" and "Off" To stop barbequeing the guy behind you, just press the stop button (NC pushbutton). This interrupts power to the relay and flame coil, breaking the latch. One thing I realized after I was done drawing this up is it would be a good idea to put an indicator light on the exciter input (pin 30 on the exciter relay) That way you don't leave it on by mistake... This control circuit (without the coil) should cost you about $15 or less (depending on how much the DPDT switch costs you) Hope this helps..
Matt {peace}
Matt {peace}
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I used a model T spark coil on mine, you need a 12 volt to 6 volt dropping resistor, and can probably get them both through JC Whitney. The "T" coil delivers one hell of a constant spark as long as you keep the voltage to it, so be carefull or you will get a free perm.Rebel Ram said:
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This is about what I was thinking but with propane. I think they looks great if done right and on the right vehicle. Anyone know if propane would work?DODGEBOYS said:
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i wonder if anything like that would work on dual stacks....
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YUP!! Looks GREAT too!! Just need a GOOD air flow!
On a "true flamethrower", all the fuel for the flames is being dumped through the engine and out the pipes, being ignited by the plugs. That's why you have to dump the ignition for a few strokes, to get a whole load of fuel in the exhaust. Since you are adding the propane right to the exhaust, you don't need to "load up" before you fire them off. BTW, email me that pic and I'll post it for you.. I'd like to see it! 
Matt {peace}
Matt {peace}
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ME TOO!!!!
it works well on propane. I have a 440 headers and dual 3 1/2 pipes and all I did was put another coil on the frame close to the end of the pipes. To excite the coil, I ran a wire from the stock coil to the "lighter" coil. With spark plugs installed 16 inches from the end of the pipes it creates a nice blue glow at night. The exhaust system has to be sealed so the unburnt gasses make it to the end of the pipes without burning to make it all work.
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On my big block RoadRunner & Fury.. I used to just drop it into first running around 50mph, floor it so it'd downshift, kill the ignition and let the motor rumble down till the car was doing maybe 10-20mph.. then turn the ignition back on.. Made on hell of a flame that way.. and didn't have to add anything.. just had to keep stopping to pick mufflers up off the street. That was also almost 20 years ago.. and I'm sure it was hard on the cars.. But.. then again.. when they have 200K on them, and they cost $300-400.. why worry about the little things.
Aaron Wyse
Aaron Wyse
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