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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, I'm fairly new here... throwing out my first post.

I have a 1976 Ramcharger with a Skyjacker 4" lift and 37" Irocs ( Fenders trimmed some!). The 440/ dual batteries/ winch/ and custom bumper has sagged the front down about 1". This is not a big deal because I just put Dana 60/70s in. The taller perches on the Dana 60 has levelled it out.

Here is the deal. I'm putting in high steer crossover steering and I have some drag link/ tie rod clearance issues with the crossmember. I've seen the 'dog leg' drag links, but I want to keep it straight for better strength. I also don't want to cut out a section of the crossmember, as I want to keep strength there too.

So... I guess a bit more lift is in order. This will help accommodate the 40" LTBs I've bought as well! I don't want to go too high because I would like to keep the center of gravity down low. I'm thinking 2" more lift should do the trick.

For the rear, I've been looking at Jungles shackle flip (nice stuff) with the 4" lift Chevy 56" spring. With the flip bracket and his rear spring front hanger you gain 4 3/4"? I figure with just the flip kit and stock front hangers, I would gain about half of that? Should be close to the 2" extra for the back.

For the front, I was going to throw in the 6" Skyjacker springs, but I'm thinking the heavy front end is going to sag it down again. I know Jim had thrown in the extra fitted spring in his 440 RC for 2" more, but could you go with some 8" springs? With some time , the nose heavy beast should settle down some? I'm thinking the 8" springs may be a little softer and flex better than 6" springs with the 2" fitted leaf?

I appreciate any opinions and/or suggestions. A great site with great people... got to love it! Thanks!





 

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On my 88 RC I put the 56" 4" lift springs & shackle flip & ended with about 7" lift. I put the 6" superlift
springs in the front & with the weight of the 440 & the winch I had to add the Superlift "6"fitted" add a lief to get her back to the 6" lift. When the D60 front goes under it will be the same as the rear. Did you change the pitman arm on the steering box to a dropped arm? Did you move the box back to the 2wd location? I get all my springs from here;
http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/

Thanks for the kind words, Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply Jim.

I haven't even got a steering box on it yet since I originally had a reverse rotation unit on my truck. I do have a drop pitman arm for a newer box, but unless my drag link is going to run 'up hill' to my steering arm, I'm going to have issues. It runs in the channel of the crossmember when horizontal. I'll still have problems with my tie rod as well. Once I get a newer steering box (78+ ?) I'll look into your steering frame support as well. You make so much cool stuff!

Your 88 RC seems like it would be the perfect set up for my truck.  ;) Just wondering though, yours used the rear leaf front hanger as well? I've seen some picks that make me believe the front hanger hangs lower than the stock rear leaf front hanger. I imagine this helps out with the pinion angle, but I'm not too worried, I'm going to get a CV rear driveshaft made for it anyway. Without the rear leaf front hanger, I might not get the 7" total lift as you have? Might be close enough though.

Also, wondering how your Gold RC project is coming with the CTD?
 

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Once a later model steering box is mounted in the 2WD position, you shouldn't have any problems clearing the crossmember.  All the clearance issues I have ever hear of with high steer was trying to clear the leaf pack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, I did some quick measuring. I have 2.5" clearance for my tie rod over the leaf springs... lots of room there. My steering arms are 2" thick, so they are quite high as they sit. Maybe this is some of the problem? I purchased the arms from North West Fab, and are really nicely made. I also only have 5" between my crossmember and the axle tube. Like I say, the 4" springs are probably only giving the front 3" of lift anyways. Once I get more lift of 2"-3" it should be good. It will be better for the 40" boots as well!  ;D
 

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You could always just cut out the crossmember and make a tube crossmember.  If I have any issues with my crossover, I'll cut just about anything and re-work it for clearance as I refuse to lift my truck more than necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was definitely thinking about that. There is quite a bit of room between the crossmember and the oil pan. I could build a crossmember that was closer to the oil pan, and that alone could give me 2" more room. Lets face it, if I have a bottom end problem in the engine, it's getting yanked anyway. I'm not pulling the pan with the engine in. I really like to keep my truck low as well. It gets on some pretty extreme angles and I don't like rolling. A buddy and I rolled his Jeep the other weekend. :eek: It was an experience... not a bad one, but I don't need to do it again! My tires are still going to be a problem though. My 37" were just touching the inner fenders, I think think the 40" ones will chew through them.
 

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Yes I used the rear spring front hanger with the shackle flip hanger. It does drop the front of the rear spring to help the pinion angle a little. But the big thing is the lower flange that wraps under the frame to support the weight of the vehicle so all the weight isn't on 4 bolts. My hangers use 6 grade 8 bolts per side.

Here are a few pics of tube supports under the engine that I save off the net.
Jim
 

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i think you,ll have probs with that lift and 40.s i run an 8" skyjacker, and a 3" bodylift, and to me its just right, and my truck is a pavement princess! i know its not helping your issue, but i think you,ll need more than that for a lift..... just my 2 cents.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the pics. That's got my brain churning now. I didn't think of having flanges on the crossmember, but that would definitely make the install easier. I think a four bolt flange might be better though.

I have the 40" tires on my RC right now with just the 4" lift. I have 5"-6" of clearance around the tire, which is comparable to my 79 RC (stock suspension with 30" tires). My 76 has wheel well 'modifications', leaving only 1" of fender below the body line. I'm not scared to remove more sheetmetal, but my inner fenders are going to become an issue. I've seen an older Ford 3/4 ton with only a 4" lift... he had 44" tires! I don't think he had any inner fenders on his rig. I need them though, I find too much mud to completely remove them.

I can't decide what to do... cut and modify, or lift a bit!?
 
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