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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After I installed my 4" Rough Country Lift, and installing the steering block, recentered my wheel, but it keeps changing from centered up, to about 3-4" off.  Then itll fix itself and realign.  Then it moves again.


any suggestions?
 

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Well, since you say "after" the lift, I assume TRE, BJ's,steering box and rag joint are all in good condition. Your issue is most likely that steering block. The studs are flexing causing the steering arm to shift on the block and the block on knuckle. Did you clean all mating surfaces to bare metal to ensure all the seafoam was gone? It took me a while to believe my block was shifting, But after marking it and having my wife run the wheel lock to lock it was shifting. Get a dropped pitman arm and remove that block.
"Just say no to blocks,brackets and body lifts"
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I did put a little grease onto studs before I installed the block incase I wanted to remove it.  I was afraid that the studs would rust itself to the block. 

Maybe its shifting around a bit?
 

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mopar_daddy said:
Well, since you say "after" the lift, I assume TRE, BJ's,steering box and rag joint are all in good condition. Your issue is most likely that steering block. The studs are flexing causing the steering arm to shift on the block and the block on knuckle. Did you clean all mating surfaces to bare metal to ensure all the seafoam was gone? It took me a while to believe my block was shifting, But after marking it and having my wife run the wheel lock to lock it was shifting. Get a dropped pitman arm and remove that block.
"Just say no to blocks,brackets and body lifts"
You just answered something I was afraid of as well. I've had the same thing happening since I swapped chevy springs up front and added a leaf in the rear. New AGR box, TRE's are tight, new drag link, but I still get the wheel not returning to center by as much as 20* either direction. Can't get it to do it while I'm in the driveway, only when I'm away from home.

Maybe time to look for a raised arm....
 

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Gotta find the INTERNAL box true center. Going lock to lock, with front wheels in the air, counting amount of turns, then turning back half way. Doesnt matter if wheel or steering wheel is pointed dead straight, they can be adjusted, but box needs to remain centeted so hydraulic spool valve isnt offset biased.
 

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Captain Obvious said:
Gotta find the INTERNAL box true center. Going lock to lock, with front wheels in the air, counting amount of turns, then turning back half way. Doesnt matter if wheel or steering wheel is pointed dead straight, they can be adjusted, but box needs to remain centeted so hydraulic spool valve isnt offset biased.
After that you probably need an adjustable drag link ti keep it there in the centered position while the truck is driving straight.
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
mopar_daddy said:
Your issue is most likely that steering block. The studs are flexing causing the steering arm to shift on the block and the block on knuckle. Did you clean all mating surfaces to bare metal to ensure all the seafoam was gone? It took me a while to believe my block was shifting, But after marking it and having my wife run the wheel lock to lock it was shifting.
Hit the nail on the head there. Mine was shifting about 1/8".
 

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Mine does the same thing after 4" lift. I took steering block off and put a drop Pittman arm. It helped but still does it a little. So do I need to get the adjustable drag link? Or maybe cut mine since it's new and weld it to right length.
 

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Don't cut and weld the drag link. I wouldn't recommend modifications to the drag link as they make adjustable drag links.
Doesn't sound like the length of the drag link is the issue, rather something is moving. Likely the steering block. You can do the things listed above: drop pitman arm and adjustable drag link, check steering box mounting areas for cracks etc, and check other steering components for wear. In my experience the only definitive fix for steering on 4" lift or more is crossover steering. Fixes all the steering geometry for lifted trucks which eliminates bump steer and all the other problems that come with lift.
Eric
 

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I bought jungles reinforcement kit from this site to box in the weak area around the steering box, then bought the steering kit from offroad design. Now I can drive my crewcab with more than 6 inches of lift and 37s down the interstate with one finger. It isn't the cheapest option but definitely the best.
Eric
 

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I bought jungles reinforcement kit from this site to box in the weak area around the steering box, then bought the steering kit from offroad design. Now I can drive my crewcab with more than 6 inches of lift and 37s down the interstate with one finger. It isn't the cheapest option but definitely the best.
Eric
Ok thanks alot
I bought jungles reinforcement kit from this site to box in the weak area around the steering box, then bought the steering kit from offroad design. Now I can drive my crewcab with more than 6 inches of lift and 37s down the interstate with one finger. It isn't the cheapest option but definitely the best.
Eric
Ok thanks alot
 

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The stock mounting plate for the steering box and the slip joint are two things that I highly recommend replacing, the plate flexing before it breaks can cause the steering wheel to not recenter, due to the plate bending at the lower bolt.

Gas Bumper Automotive exterior Wood Auto part


Aftermarket mounting plate on my W350, it alone makes a difference in steering feel compared to the stamped stock mount.
 

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Mine does the same thing after 4" lift. I took steering block off and put a drop Pittman arm. It helped but still does it a little. So do I need to get the adjustable drag link? Or maybe cut mine since it's new and weld it to right length.
Scott, I know this issue is centering around the pitman arm, But I'll take a stab at this, but a few questions, first. When you did the lift, did you also install larger tires? Does the truck pull or wander slightly while rolling down the road? Does the steering wheel feel really light or "loose"? Some front lift springs come with a wedge to turn the axle/pumpkin up, so the driveshaft can still reach. Did you use this wedge?

Ed
 
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