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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry I didn't know what else to call it. So I'm in the middle of disc brake swap on my 73 Powerwagon. My truck has a 4 inch lift on it the donor axle doesn't. How do you get the steering arm off?  And I figure I will have to get new studs as I will probably tear these up trying to get them out. Any suggestions or advice will be appreciated. Everyone on here has always been so nice and helpful I hope to be able to return the favor for someone later as I gain experience and knowledge.
 

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It is a bear of a job. I've only done one before.

Spin the nuts off, use penetrating oil. Let it sit a few days. Try to dislodge the cones with hammer and chisel, and/or blunt impacts on the side of the steering arm (as you do with balljoint/TRE tapers).  Don't get too crazy yet...

Try to heat the cones up... acetylene or mapp torch. They will expand on themselves and shrink once cool. Go back to step 1.

Hope that helps




 

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the key is that there are split tapered cone shaped sleeves between the studs and the arm , down in the arms holes. If you clean it up well after removing the nuts and washers , you MAY be able to see the split in those cones. the trick is that they have been pressed down into the tapered holes and that causes them to squeeze the studs tightly . you need to release THAT squeeze , THEN the cones will come up/off the studs , the arm will be loose . SOO spray penn oil , and drive a VERY small chizle / pocket screwdriver(?) down into the split of the cone to OPEN it up freeing it from its grip on the stud ... these are the same system ounce used on large truck rear axles to hold them to their hubs ....  the "other" way ?... remove flat washer , doubble nut the studs and unscrew them ... IF you can .BUT It's doubtful they will turn with the drag from the cones on them  .
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you folks for the insight. I figured that were tapered been soaking them and tapping them on the side tried a chisel last night. I will try again tonight using a little screwdriver to try and help release them. I appreciate the knowledge and help.
 

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Sounds like you are not worried about the studs. Worst case, you can cut them off, and drill through them.

I have had some success, in loosening the nuts,and them turning the wheel back and forth a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Man what a bear of a job. Now the questions is where do I get new wedges? I have tried all the parts houses and no one can get them I have a local place the does lift kits and have them looking as well. Does anyone know where to get these things I hate to reuse the ones I mangled to get out.
 

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70sdodge said:
Man what a bear of a job. Now the questions is where do I get new wedges? I have tried all the parts houses and no one can get them I have a local place the does lift kits and have them looking as well. Does anyone know where to get these things I hate to reuse the ones I mangled to get out.
Might be tough to find the cones on their own...

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/D443STUD.html
http://www.partsmike.com/index.php/products/1-pm06hk-d44-high-steer-stud-kit
https://www.barnes4wd.com/Dana-44-High-Steer-Stud-Kit_p_536.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you for the links if I have to buy the studs and nuts as well that fine almost preferred. I will call them and see what they have. I appreciate how helpful everyone is on here.
 

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Stop by your local truck spring/ suspension shop. Bring one along, they will not have a listing that says Dodge trucks use XXX, but can match up your old one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Finally got that part of the disc brake swap done and all put together.
 
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