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Thought I read where one of us had his steering arm drilled out to 5/8th. was going to do this with mine until my neighbor (respected Mech) said there wasnt enough meat around two(2) of the stud holes to do this.Did he drill out the cones too or was that a seprate kit?He also said to get grade 10 or better bolts,for go restudding it.Was or is there a special reason Dodge put the studs in?
Doing this on the 84 crew Long bed,that cant seem to turn a circle in 10 acres! :eek: Little exageration but close. ;D Im running 35by 12.5 with a 6' lift.My other problem or ? is the bump stops.They are set at 9/16" right now.What can I get away with setting them at before things start wearing bad(front axles)Is there a rule of thumb?Any little bit of extra tighter turning radius I can get would be nice.Not expecting any miracles though!8)
Brian L.

 

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Studs are an excellent type of fastener, although they can be a b*tch to remove. I don't know why you would want to drill out the steering arm but as far as drilling out the cone, this is done so that you can use a spherical (Heim) joint instead of a tie rod end.

You can adjust the stop bolts on the axle to increase the amount of steering angle, however keep in mind that the tighter the steering becomes, the more likely it will be that the tires start making contact with parts such as the leaf springs.

Also as the steering angle becomes tighter, when you are in 4wd, the front axle u-joints will operate at a greater angle. The higher operational angle will put them at risk of breaking. To prevent u-joint failure, avoid steering tightly while in 4wd or avoid using the throttle while steering tightly.

Ed
 

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its not DODGE that used the studs it was DANA so that means Ford and GM also have the studs / it must be yer putting in either a raised steering arm or the steering block / and YES either one will give you back some of yer turning
 
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