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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good Morning Guys,

Now I haven't really dug into this yet but I figured I'd put it up here in case there are some "duh" level solutions I've passed over.  My plan is to go through this thread and the FSM wiring diagrams tonight or tomorrow to see if I can get it running.  Ok - down to business.

1974 W200 360 with the 2bbl california carb and a 727/205 behind it.

Over the past month the truck has been dying slowly after the first crank but always starting on the second.  I figured it was the old junk fuel filters (there are three of them cut in to the fuel lines in various spots.)  I have replacement filters but haven't cut them in yet.  It hasn't been a really big deal and it's been cold and wet out so I haven't gone out to do it.  Once it warmed up it would drive exactly as it always did and felt healthy.

However yesterday the truck acted completely different.  It would die instantly upon going from start to run.  I could hear combustion happening on start but it just goes away instantly when I drop it down to run.  The only thing I did was immediately replace the 4 post ballast resistor.  I had a spare and I've been eyeballing it since I bought the truck cause it had a crack in it.  Unfortunately that did not solve the problem. 

Factory wiring is completely intact and unmolested.  What's next on the list to check?  Take voltage on the run hot wire from the ignition?  voltage before the coil?  Pull a wire to check for spark on starting?  Anything I'm missing?

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If I wanted to check my ballast resistor what readings am I looking at for a “good” unit?  Want to rule out a bad new one.  Should I be reading Ohms with my multimeter or would it be better to just try to read volts to ground?
 

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easiest way to check the resistor ? remove the wires from both ends , put a wire connecting them in place OF the resistor , try starting it . Runs ? the resistor is bad , replace it . this test will get you to the store for a new one , but don't leave the jumper there for a week , it makes the coil run hot and it will EVENTUALLY fail . But for a test and short drive , its ok .
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Found the problem!

Burnt connector on the ignition switch pigtail.  Did the fuel filters while I was at it and the truck is running better than it ever had.  Man, its funny how everything just boils down to Air, Fuel, and a Spark.

Thanks for your help guys!
 

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so what was happening when cranking the start power was working , but when "ON" the on power from switch was not working . bad connections cause heat .
 
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