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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How can you tell if you are getting full fire to your spark plugs? It may sound kinda simple but my brain hurts from going over everything else. I have a mild built 318 with holley 600 vac secondaries, edel manifold 3302 heads and the new 340 grind cam from mopar. I am using a blaster high vib coil and have changed the setup from the lean burn to ecu.



The truck idles good but stinks of fuel, after I reset the air fuel mix and the float levels that knocked the smell down and got rid of most of the smoke. I then changed the advance it was set at about 12 atc. I didnt have timing light so I turned (counterclockwise) a little at time the distributer trying to get rid of the dieseling. I got the dieseling down to just a few sighs when turned off. I thought that dieseling was caused by to much of a retard in timing but the more I retarded it the less dieseling.It feels like it has more power but not near what it had when it was just the lean burn 2 barrel and I got about 13-14 mpg.


I am now getting 10 mpg driven mostly highway miles. With the timimg like it is on hard accelaration I can hear the lifters rattleing and from about half way peddle to the floor there is no change in performance. I am going to pull the plugs today but I am sure I will find out it was running to rich.I am pulling my hair out trying to figure out whats going on. The carb was brand new when I put it on. Where else do I need to look? I have to drive it 600 miles this week end on highway pulling the truck I bought so any improvement would help alot.
 

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I think you need ot detune the crab some more wiht smaller jets ..... onlly way to get rid of the awful rich you had then try to tune it .... Also are trying to set the timing with the vac advance still hooked up ? if so unhook it and try restting the timing ..... should have a total of 34 degree's of timing around there anyhow ....
 

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I agree-I am going through some of the same issues. So far I have had to put in smaller jets and metering rods on my edelbrock-not sure how the holley is rejetted. Also beg or borrow a timing light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Got one, I set the intial timing at factory settings then tuned it by ear from there. I am afraid I have an issue somewhere that I am covering up with the timing and carb adjustments. I am not sure on how to rejet the carb, I dont know what jets are even in it.
 
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When you set the timing are you removing the vacuum line from the distributor and plugging it? It sounds to me like you have too much advance timing. I'm not familiar with the "new 340 grind" cam. Did you install the cam straight up or was it advanced? What all did you change for the leanectomy?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I installed the cam straight up.When I set the timing I removed the vac advance line. There is no longer any lean burn parts left. I removed the carb, distr, computer box and replaced them with the holley, stock distrubetr with vac advance. I got a new ecu from parts store and a donor ballast and pigtail. On the wiring I hooked up according to chiltons kinda 2 ways. They didnt have the exact wiring diagram for a single lead single ballast set up. so instead of 2 wires coming from the truck harness I have only one.


I have 1 hot wire running from ignition to top of ballast. from there it jumps over to the coil. coming from the bottom of the ballast I have 1 wire going to the to the #1 on pigtail. From the neg side of coil I have 1 wire going to #2 on pigtail. From the distributer Neg or black wire I have running to the #4 on pigtail . From the pos or orange wire on distributer I have running to the #5 on pigtail.

Does that sound right? The cam is the same as the old performance factory grind but with a little more flare. If you need the exact specs I can look for it if that might make a diffrence. It basicly is a little hotter grind.
 

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a hoplley is SIMPLE to rejet. i have done it on my 600 many MANY times. just one ? is it a single inlet or is it a double pumper???? songle inlet the jets are only on 1 side. just pull the fuel bowl off the front, pull the metering block off and at the bottom of the block you have two small castle lookin things. those are your jets. pull those either with the proper jet tool OR if your really good about it and dont mess em up you can use a standard screwdriver but the tool is way easier.if yours is anything like mine its runnin #59 jets. i would go to like 57 or so if its runnin way rich.i hope this makes any sence. a double pumper the only thing you dont have to worry about is the fuel transfer tube....oh and get the strip kit! its about $25 and comes with everything you will need to rebuild the carb exept the jets. check local performance shops for a jet kit. otherwise its hit and miss on what they have.
hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ya its a double pumper , has fromt and back floats and fuel transfer line in between. Does anyone have this set up and if so what would you run in it?
 

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me personally no .... but they are super tunable though i know that ...... umm....i know at www.holley.com u can find about everyhting u wanna know for tuning that carb is it a 4150 model ?
 

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Granted it can be pretty confusing if you never have done any Holley carb tuning thopugh ..... i am by no means know a hell of alot about Holley's and tuning them .... make a new post and be specific about the carb info ....
 
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Still sounds like a timing issue. Try setting the intial timing at around 10 BTDC and drive it. If it doesn't feel right, back the timing off a couple degrees and try it again. Also, check the centrifical advance to see if it's working properly.
 

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You know i think it might the timing but it's in the distributor .... you have put lighter springs in the distributor ? might be you got the heavier springs nad your advance is closing to fast .... food for thought anyhow
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I havent changed the springs, Hell without ordering I cant even get the springs.Primer was my setup for the ecu right? I had a fire about 2 months ago and I had to replace the guts in the distributer, but it had the same poor perfrmance before (thats what caused the fire) lol . I wished now that I would have taken the time to degree in the cam. I have checked about everything besides the spark plugs. I read in another post about reading them so I will try that.
 

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Yup degreeing the cam is pretty critical i think ..... some people don't but i do ..... if you wanna know more about degreeing a cam intenseimages (Eric) went through degreeiung his cam and it was none to fun but it's not all that hard once u know what u r doing with it .....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I just got done looking at my plugs. #1 was perfect didnt even look like it was used , pulled #5 and well luck went to heck. According to the spark plug reader page My timing is to far advanced , im lean at wot and rich at idle. But then again I have no clue what I am looking at. I am gonna pull more tommarrow to see if the others are the same as #5. I am gonna start over from basics tommarrow.
 
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