Dodge RamCharger Central banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello, so pretty straight up, trying to take rear wheels off my 89 ramcharger so i can replace the wheel cylinder and yup rusted rounded and seized, i dont have access to  heat or a welder, i tryed hitting on smaller socket but it didnt help. they are recessed in an aluminum wheel. i dont really want to drill out the stud since its the rear end and dont want to pull the axels to replace stud, any ideas would be greatly appreciated
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,325 Posts
Buy a small MAPP gas torch at Lowes/Home Depot, and use that for heat. They are cheap. That should help a lot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,706 Posts
Drilling could work. I think there's enough room to replace a stud without pulling the axle.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,325 Posts
mxnocean said:
do you think that would damage the wheel? since ita aluminum
I would think so. Just keep the heat on the lug nut. The aluminum has larger mass than the nut and would have absorbed less heat in the time you need to heat the nut. You can also get an assistant to use a water spray bottle to keep the wheel cool if there are concerns.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,500 Posts
I gave up on the oem '93 aluminum rims because every time they too were stuck on . I used heat , a cutting torch . darkened the rim in one or 2 spots , heat let cool a little ...  this was after I'd bought 20 new lug nuts as well , slathered everything with neverseize , still stuck .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
649 Posts
Pull the diff cover, remove the C clips holding the axle in, slide the drum, axle, and wheel off as an assembly. That will at least make the wheel easier to work on and let you complete the repair.

Get a can of AeroKroil pentrating lubricant. It isn't cheap, but it is hands down the BEST pentrating lubricant on the market. CAN O' KROIL

Next, as has been suggested, get a little propane or MAPP torch from a home improvement store. Heat the lug nut until it is good and hot and try again. If that doesn't hget it to budge, fill the cup around the lug nut with Kroil and let it sit for a day or so. Then try again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,500 Posts
what I found , corrosion takes place between the drum/hub and the rim , and between the cone of the lug nut and the rim . The 2 combined cause "swelling" of the materials being held ( bolted) together , this makes the torque on the lug nuts very high , they're now over tightened .  while I used a HIGH heat torch to get in get out quickly , a burnzomatic (SP?) may work , Mapp gas  ( yellow can )  is hotter than propane ... with the original lug nuts collapsing and rounding , while HOT I smashed a worn 6 pt. impact socket of a smaller size onto the nut . I was at the          "well , as is , it's broke , so I'm going to make it work or break it completely "    stage . I was using a 4 pound lump hammer to install the socket .  I put new bulge lug nuts on it , I tightened them TOO LOOSE , but snug , kept an eye on them , they did not loosen , BUT come spring tire change time 3 out of 20 were again a problem , The truck now has ugly steel factory rims ...  I.E. its NOT the rust on the threads ....
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
62,277 Posts
mxnocean said:
that would be ky, id drill those guys out just not sure if there is room to put new studs in
With the wheel cylinder out, there is tons of room.

They make a female version of the easy out, just for gripping and removing stuck lugnuts. Or drill with 1/4" about the depth of the lug nut, then go in with a 1/2" drill, to the same. Then the nut should easily twist off.

Then after you remove the wheel cylinder, use a hammer and punch, and pound the rest of the stud out. Then depending on what tools you have, there is over a dozen ways to get the new stud in place. Not the best way, but I have often oiled the threads, and put the wheel in place, and then use a new lugnut to pull the stud in place. Leave the brake drum off, so you can see when the stud is all the way in place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,500 Posts
you do not have to use a drill bit the size of stud to "remove " them  , drill just large enough to break them and the lug nuts will be "gone" with the broke stud . You can start with a small bit , 1/8th , then redrill with a 3/8ths , jamb a socket on there and snap them off . nothing easy , but do whatever HAS to be done , it's already Broken after all. please remember to support the auto so it don't come crashing down on ya  ;D
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top