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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My '89's w/s is sandblasted pretty bad (original glass, "Hecho En Mexico"), but it's not cracked (yet - knock wood), so I can't justify replacing it yet 'cause there's other things on the list far more important than that... It isn't a problem unless the sun is in front of me, then I have a blinding glare off all the little pits.. Is there any way to "buff" the windshield and get rid of the pits? Or do I just live with it until it breaks and I have to replace it?

Matt {peace}
 

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Replace it too, get it on the list
 

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I know that car lots used to do that to used cars, polish the glass that is. You maybe able to check with them to see if any of those guys are still around that do that for them! But, I think the Eastwood company has glass polish kit of enough stuff to buy to do a polish job. I went and just changed my whole glass, gasket, and snap in strip. Cost me about $377.00 when all said and done through SafteyLite and I have a warentee for as long as I own the vech.
 

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There are products sold to "hide the scratches in reading glasses. maybe you can check the local drug store and try some. Report back.
 

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Yeah i got the same thing in my S-10 the windshield is bad sandblasted damn Airboats !!!!!!!!!!!!!! 250 ot change it out . wanna do it beofre i go to texas but damn i need other shit done 1st too . like a tinted sliding rear window
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Unfortunately other things are already priorities.. I want to do it eventually, but I just don't have the $300 to do it right now. Tha's why I'm looking for a cheap fix for right now. Ram, just so you're aware, that warranty is only good until a stone or acorn hits it. They warranty it against leaks and stress cracks, but it's not a "road hazard" warranty. I spent $265 for a new windshield in my '85 after I punched it because I was pissed at someone, then 4 months later a truck kicked up a rock and cracked the new one... Because of where it cracked I tried to pass it as a stress crack, but the guy took a pen and traced the crack and he could feel where the rock hit because it's chipped out.
 

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TaZMaNiaK said:
Unfortunately other things are already priorities.. I want to do it eventually, but I just don't have the $300 to do it right now. Tha's why I'm looking for a cheap fix for right now. Ram, just so you're aware, that warranty is only good until a stone or acorn hits it. They warranty it against leaks and stress cracks, but it's not a "road hazard" warranty. I spent $265 for a new windshield in my '85 after I punched it because I was pissed at someone, then 4 months later a truck kicked up a rock and cracked the new one... Because of where it cracked I tried to pass it as a stress crack, but the guy took a pen and traced the crack and he could feel where the rock hit because it's chipped out.
Well thats good to know! I was not aware of that, but if the rock hits in my field of vision then its covered under my insurance. I think that most insurance companys operate that way too. You may check with them and see if they can replace the windshield.

Mine was all sandblasted and starting to get a fog from the bottom up and the sides inward I knew it was shot. But, didn't get any cracking in that old one of mine! It did have a ton of little chips from stones too.

That was why I paided for mine to be changed, and that the gasket was leaking on both sides and the middle.
 

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If you want to save that windshield, (Remove the sandblasted effect) your environment has had on the glass you'll need to order some Cerium Oxide Polishing Powder from JC Whitney.

It's listed under stock no: 13-24575, Product no: BX-6640.

It's manufactured by:

Formax Mfg. Corp.
168 Wealthy St. S.W.
Grand Rapids, MI 49503

This stuff works. I used it to remove a bad scuff on my side glass window that was right in the way of my view of the mirror. Patience and time is all it takes with a low speed buffer. Technique tip..... Use a battery powered drill, apply medium pressure, keep the buff pad moving to avoid a "hot spot" and mix wit just enough water to get the right consistency and follow the Mfgr's instruction sheet provided, and you'll be amazed at the results.

After all, what do you think the glass shops are using to make these types of repairs when they aren't replacing the glass out right?

I'd give this a shot first. My .02.

Dave
 

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My insurance will pay for a new windshield. It costs me $100. I've done mine about 3 times already. They can't raise your rates or put (point) it against you either. I will probably do it this summer since I have a little chip in it. The rubber always gets changed too, this time I'll get the rubber without the chrome insert thast looks like crap after the sun beats on it for awhile. Make sure and tell them your window is tinted as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks Dave, that's what I'm looking for! You just use a regular buffing wheel, right?

Matt {peace}
 

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he said battery power buffer though right ? whatthe hell is the difference and i am gonna find me osme of this stuff cuz damn does my windshield need it !!!!!!!! I knew there is a compound out there that will fill in the pits . I a m grateful Dave mentioned this !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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The main reason for a battery powered suggestion is lower speed... low speed and not much pressure does the job. Also a thin mix, rather than mud, works best. Read up on this telescope maker's site, they're serious lens and mirror polishers !

http://www.stellafane.com/atm/atm_mirror_ref/atm_grit.htm
 
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