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561 Posts
Another shot.... 
RuninWtheDevil's 90 R/C II
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One word of advice c-man, take back that kit and get the system, that uses the springs. With that much lift and on blocks to boot, you will have axle wrap from hell. Just a word of advice. If finances are a problem....hang on to the money till you get enough to buy the system.
Randall
Randall
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561 Posts
The last post is right. If you can afford the system, buy it. After putting about 500 miles on the springs, the right front has settled a little over an inch and a quarter. When the front end dives into a right turn, the tire polishes the bottom rear of the passenger front fender. I have the replacement spring Superlift sent me. I plan to put it in this week. No mods. Fenders are stock. Body is so clean, I'd hate to have to cut it up. I used the steering kit that provides the 3" spacer block and the drop pitman arm. Going down the road it steers and handles great. Of course being lifted you can feel it's different though. I had a goal to refine the lift system until it felt as much like the stock susp. as it could. I've just about got it the way I want it.
Dave
Dave
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12 Posts
I'll give this a shot, being that I'm kinda new to this myself, yet I have an idea of what it is and know that it's there.
When you accelerate, if your axles weren't bolted down securely, they would just roll right to the back of the truck. The large lift blocks are just another piece that can give way under the pressure of acceleration. If the blocks aren't there, then you just have the axle mated with the leaf spring. The axle tries to wrap underneath the truck, and the springs don't give, so the force is basically transferred to the tires, which then turn and make ya go. Now, if someone reading this can explain it better than I did, or knows that I am just waaaayyy off base.....CORRECT ME But, I do know that lift blocks only add to the axle wrap effect, and that going with the system is just a better option for ya.
Randall
When you accelerate, if your axles weren't bolted down securely, they would just roll right to the back of the truck. The large lift blocks are just another piece that can give way under the pressure of acceleration. If the blocks aren't there, then you just have the axle mated with the leaf spring. The axle tries to wrap underneath the truck, and the springs don't give, so the force is basically transferred to the tires, which then turn and make ya go. Now, if someone reading this can explain it better than I did, or knows that I am just waaaayyy off base.....CORRECT ME But, I do know that lift blocks only add to the axle wrap effect, and that going with the system is just a better option for ya.
Randall
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561 Posts
It's a factory color called "Colorado Red." Prior to painting the truck, all I had to go by was the color inside the doors. I wanted to keep it stock so I went with it. I have no regrets. It shows well. Most people who see it like it. There's nothing like pulling into a predominately Chevy or Ford gathering and becoming the center of attention. Most people's reactions to Dodge trucks is that they either love em or hate em.aepowell said:
Dave
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561 Posts
Corey,coreyhaight said:
Thanks for the compliments!
The lift total is 8". 5" of Superlift suspension lift and 3" of body lift. The tires are the new Interco SSR's. They're 37 x 12.50 x 15. Wheels are AR 15 x 10 Outlaw II's.Dave
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561 Posts
Hey Dropmech.
Here's what I ended up doing, after spending a couple hours on the phone with the Superlift techs. Dave is a great guy there and was very helpful.
First, I got rid of the 3 deg shims on the front springs. With these in place, I couldn't get a good front end alignment caster setting. I install the 1" spacer at the transfer case. After checking the shaft an gle and clearances at full droop, everything is good at this point.
The rear rear is a different animal. The Superlift supplied shims are approx. 6 deg. Too much. My truck had u-joint bind bad. (This was per the supplied install instructions.) Another problem I had when I finished the rear spring install was the truck sat 2" higher in the rear than it did in the front. Superlift sent me their 2" angle blocks to replace my stock ones, problem solved. Still had u-joint bind.
After talking to Dave, he advised lowering the T-case 1 1/2 inches. Helped tremendously by providing me with the adjustment needed to adjust the pinion angle down 2 deg. Setting the pinion down 2 deg. got me within the 1 1/2 to 2 degs. of the shaft angle at the T-case. At this point the joints are operating in parallel operational planes. No noise, no vibration.
I found out though, during my install that the slipper spline on the rear shaft was shot. I replaced it and had it rebalanced for around $200. Made a big difference too.
Hope this helps. Superlift did tell me that all trucks vary just enough that some adjustments differ when trying to get things right.
After about a month, my right front spring settled almost a full 2 inches. Called Superlift and they sent me a replacement in 4 days, free of charge.
Dave
Here's what I ended up doing, after spending a couple hours on the phone with the Superlift techs. Dave is a great guy there and was very helpful.
First, I got rid of the 3 deg shims on the front springs. With these in place, I couldn't get a good front end alignment caster setting. I install the 1" spacer at the transfer case. After checking the shaft an gle and clearances at full droop, everything is good at this point.
The rear rear is a different animal. The Superlift supplied shims are approx. 6 deg. Too much. My truck had u-joint bind bad. (This was per the supplied install instructions.) Another problem I had when I finished the rear spring install was the truck sat 2" higher in the rear than it did in the front. Superlift sent me their 2" angle blocks to replace my stock ones, problem solved. Still had u-joint bind.
After talking to Dave, he advised lowering the T-case 1 1/2 inches. Helped tremendously by providing me with the adjustment needed to adjust the pinion angle down 2 deg. Setting the pinion down 2 deg. got me within the 1 1/2 to 2 degs. of the shaft angle at the T-case. At this point the joints are operating in parallel operational planes. No noise, no vibration.
I found out though, during my install that the slipper spline on the rear shaft was shot. I replaced it and had it rebalanced for around $200. Made a big difference too.
Hope this helps. Superlift did tell me that all trucks vary just enough that some adjustments differ when trying to get things right.
After about a month, my right front spring settled almost a full 2 inches. Called Superlift and they sent me a replacement in 4 days, free of charge.
Dave
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324 Posts
AWESOME LOOKING TRUCK!!!!! That 6" lift really helps to set it off from the rest.
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9,018 Posts
More blocks on the rear will increase axle wrap. I twistred my right rear leaf spring into a z-shape cuz of the stacked blocks when I first lifted my truck. Try driving thru a huge mud hole sideways cuz of the axle being crooked under yer truck !!!!
I have an 89 Ramcharger with a 2 1/2" Rancho lift. It came with 2.5" blocks for the back, and it does have axle wrap(total of 5.5" of block). What I did is made up some tourqe arms, meaning I took 1.25" tubing and had it threaded RH threads on one end and LH on the other, to screw in a set of 3/4" rod ends I got at summit. I welded a piece of steel on the rear end and another on the frame to bolt on to. It does work very well. I did this untill I can figure out exactly what I want to do with the rear springs. I'm running 33/10.50R15 BFG Mud Terrain T/A K/M tires with Rancho 9000 shocks. I can set it to ride like a Caddy for in town, or stiff for handling or the freeway.
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1,226 Posts
that is really truly a very nice looking RC! she's so beatuiful!! almost makes a girl cry to see one like that *snif*.
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hey how is your exhaust set up?
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2.5" duals from the manifolds back into Daytona Turbo -Z cats and FlowMaster mufflers. The forming of the tailpipes took some doing, and then I added the 3.5" slash tips.jbrccharger said:
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