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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I "blip" the throttle, in ANY gear, the RPMs go up for at least 3 or 4 seconds before dropping down to idle again. And the RPMs go up way higher than they should in relation to how far I press the pedal.

This isn't good when I'm trying to back out of a parking space because I have to fight the engine with the brakes until it idles down.

And it doesn''t matter if the engine is hot or cold.
Any help would be appreciated.

Gonzo
 

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try lubing up the throttle cable, or check your return springs

had the same prob in mom and dads blazer, hit the gas and it would shoot up to about 3500rpms and have to mash the brakes as hard as possible so you didnt run over anybody

10 minutes, 2 cans of gumout, and a can of pb blaster later, all was well and good with the world

if that dont work, maybe check your TPS

eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's not the cables. They both (throttle & cruise) have a little slack in them.

I tried to find the TPS yesterday, with no luck. I pulled two sensors (I'm guessing) off of the passenger side of the throttle body. They both had torx screws and an electrical plug on them. I thought that one of them would be the TPS, but they weren't what I was expecting.

Doesn't a TPS have a "spring-type thing" in it that gets carbon buildup on it? That's what I have always pulled off of EFI cars and cleaned.

Gonzo
 

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TPS is just a switch or similar to a knob it should be along the throttle shaft at the opposite side of the pedals connection
 

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I've heard of the idle air solenoid ( if I'm thinking the right part) needing to be removed for an occaisional cleaning. My 95 Dak was due for that when it met it's demise.. Put the clutch in at stops and rpm would slowly come back to idle from 2-3K. Similiar to the old solenoid on the carbed cars that would help keep the motor from lugging down when running lots of accessories.
Aaron
 

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Thanks Chump.. That's the part I was thinking of.. Just couldn't recall it properly off the top of my head.
Aaron
 

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time to test for vacum leaks,but the culprit is probably a combination of things,isc a little sticky,tps getting noisy and map getting sluggish.also disconnect the negative battery cable when you done swappin parts to get rid of any bad memories .or try a disconnect first -see if that helps.
 

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My '90 318 used to do that too. every time the throttle was pushed a little. the ecu would activate the IAC up a little bit. it didn't make any difference when you are driving. but when the pedal was released, the ecu took a little bit to acknoledge at drop the IAC back down. Chump has the right diagrams above. Pull your aircleaner off and start the engine. Watch the adjusting screw on the IAC. sSee if it 'follows' the throttle arm as you gently move the throttle off idle.

SOLUTION? I don't know. I replaced the system with a new distributor and a Megasquirt controller. That problem is now a thing of the past.

Good Luck!

Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for the replies.

Chump said, "Sometimes the gears inside the motor go bad and need replaced."

Is it hard to replace these gears or should I just buy a new one?
Where can I find the gears only (or a rebuild kit)?
The only ISC Actuators that I could find online were at NAPA for about $81.

I appreciate the help.
Gonzo
 

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My 91 does that. I spray the IAC with some WD40 and its fine for a wile. I need to replace it but its not cheap. For now i just have it unplugged. Idles real slow some times but it keeps it from running in to the back of someone.
 
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