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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys
I just took the manifold off my truck(I'm gonna get new gaskets and see if that solves my idle problem) and while I was at it, I took the valve covers off, and I was messing with the rocker arms, and I noticed that a few would move side to side on the shaft, while the others were solid, and wouldn't move at all. That was on the passenger side, I didn't get a chance to check the driver side because it started to rain. But I was curious, should they do that, or no ???? I don't think so, but I haven't quite mastered this beast called the Dodge 360, so I don't know, and would appreciate a little help from some experienced people (Yo Chump, u listenin? 8) Thanks
 

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You didn't say what year you rig is. But, if you pistons are on the compression stroke, your rockers will slide a little on the shaft, as long as its hortizontal movement and not up and down motion. Since you have the manifold off, pull the rocker shafts off and check your pushrods for straightness. You can also check the rockers for wear. Highest wear point is where the pushrod rubs against the rocker tip. Make sure when you put the manifold back on, the mating sufaces are squeaky clean, worst place for leaks to develope is on the ends of the manifold when it rests on the block. Good bead of high temp RTV works better than a gasket on that spot. Watch your torque sequence when you get ready to bolt it down, have fun. ;D
 

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also, if you take the shafts off, make sure the same pushrod & rocker go together on the same lifter they came off of. There are right & left rockers(intake & exhaust), and you need one of each per cylinder.

Look at everything closely before you take them off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I wasn't planning on tearing onto my rig that far yet. It's a 79, btw. I just needed to get the intake off so I could clean all the crap off of it and so I could replace the gaskets, which came off with the intake. Is that a good thing? All I know is, the driver side gasket fell apart, while the passenger side was okay. I was just curious though as to whether or not my heads were okay or gone. I think they need to be rebuilt ne way, considering that engine is 25 yrs old. What do you guys think?
 

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it's up to you...if they were doing fine, then leave them. If not, it's gonna get expensive to re-do them. Even oif they are rebuilt using your old valves and springs, it's gonna be 100-200 for machine work and all. If you need new valves & spinrgs, add another couple hundred.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I plan on redoing it all soon in the future, using roller rockers and high strength pushrods, etc. But that will be after I get my 42" tires and my lift, as well as my fenders cut, which will be a long time from now. Hopefully gonna either make it a mud truck or puller. Probably a little of both. But thanks for the advice guys, appreciate it all. You guys are a big help to us "ghetto" mechanics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Decided I'm gonna get a new intake mainfold, so I went through my trusty Summit Racing mag(God, I love this thing) and decided on an Eddy Performer RPM manifold. Got one ? tho. I got an EGR manifold, but I wanna order the non egr one, cuz it's cheaper. Do I HAVE to use the egr one, or no? Like I said, the motors a 79. Lemme know guys, and thanks. Oh yeah, I changed my profile a little, but I still can't upload pics of my beast yet, Can ne one out there tell me how to put up a picture of my truck PLEEZE? Thanks
 

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If you have a 4bbl now i wouldn't bother too much with the aftermarket. For a stock engine you can't beat the stock cast iron one. The Edelbrock performer makes less hp then stock. The RPM and Air Gap will make alot more hp then stock but might sacrifice low end torque.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What about a Weiand Action + or a Stealth?
 

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Keep the cast iron manifold and get the heads rebuilt since you are as far along as you are anyway. Even if the rest of your motor goes to hell, you can still count on the heads being good if you rebuild them now but count on the rebuilt heads to stress out the weaknesses in the unrebuilt motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I was going to get either a Performer RPM (the power is from idle to about 5,000 RPM) or a Weiand (?), Not sure which kind yet. I just wanted something that was lighter, and cleaner too. My intake had a small amount of rust in it, and I don't trust it AT ALL. All the other intakes I've found at the JY are pretty much toast too.
Unless of course you guys know a way for me to get rid of the rust and all the grime on it quickly and easily.
 

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take it down to your local machine shop and have them hot tank or bead blast it. It will cost you like $20-30, but it will look like brand new. Then just slap some paint on it and throw it back on.
 

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EvilNerd said:
take it down to your local machine shop and have them hot tank or bead blast it. It will cost you like $20-30, but it will look like brand new. Then just slap some paint on it and throw it back on.
yep just did this to mine, cost me $20 and it did look brand new, especially after a good coat of engine enamel.

this also cleaned out all of those nasty little spaces oyu cant get to with a sand blaster

eric
 
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