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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can some one give me an exploded dia. of the Front CV assay. on a '77 W150 w/ 318/435/203? Do I have to knock pins out or something? Kinda looks like a PIA.
-Steve C.
 

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whlnwgn said:
Can some one give me an exploded dia. of the Front CV assay. on a '77 W150 w/ 318/435/203? Do I have to knock pins out or something? Kinda looks like a PIA.
-Steve C.
Constant Velocity U-Joint

The constant velocity U-joint is the double universal joint used in the front driveshaft on four-wheel drive models. It can be are disassembled in the same way as the snapring type U-joint. Original equipment U-joints are held together by plastic retainers which shear when they are pressed out. The bearing cups in the center part of the joint should be pressed out before those in the yoke. Original equipment constant velocity joints cannot be re-assembled. Replacement part kits should have the bearing cups with grooves for retaining rings.

hope it helps i took it out of a haynes manuel
mike
 

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and it is one the PIA's to rebuild but it does make it worth doing cuz u learn how to do it .
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, thanks. I hope my shaft isn't totally shot though.
-Steve C.
 

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hope not man . u ain't gotta another fron shaft ot use in the meant time though ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
BrianT said:
hope not man . u ain't gotta another fron shaft ot use in the meant time though ?
I'm not driving it. I've got the engine torn down right now for repairs. The front shaft decided to break on the way to the shop. ::)
-Steve C.
 

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I'm sure eric sent you some good information and pictures, i'm guessing, but just so you know incase you look here first. The CV is a bitch to work on. You've got two u-joints and then the centre section which is a boot protecting a shaft on one side (the driveshaft side) and a ball on the other (the transfer case side). The ball has needle bearings on the inner side and rides around in a pressed in groove. The ball is what typically goes bad, either breaking a needle or shattering the upper ring in its pressed in seal. Either way, its no fun. But, try to make the best of it :)
 

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i sent him the pics and instructions out of my FSM for this job.

while it can be a major PIA to do this, i rebuilt mine last summer in aoubt 3 hours in my backyard

eric
 

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Well, I disagree that they can not be rebuilt. I rebuilt mine and ran it for over 10 yrs with no problems. Still have it as a spare.

When you take it apart, make dang sure you match mark everything, so it goes back together the same way it came apart.

And take a real good look at how it works and how much angle you can get out of it, and then when it is apart, it would be very easy to 'clearance" it for more lift in the future. Clearancing it is basically grinding away a little metal in the areas where the yokes bind against each other, and it will allow you to run up to 6-8" of lift without gettign a new d/s made.

I have always ended up havign to clearance mine assembled, and it is kinda a pain in the butt puttign it up and checking it so much. Even had to do it on my brand new custom d/s.
 
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