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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone know what a 15x8 American Racing rim SHOULD weigh? I have a set coming ups and the tracking site says they weigh 38.8 lbs EACH??? :eek: Even with packageing, is that right?
 

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Yep and you will wish you bought alum after you put them anchors on
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hell Ed-3, they are just ar-767's, cheap wagon wheels basiclly.
 

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Well 40 lbs a wheel, don't forget that kills your mileage, so the few dollars you saved on not buying alum light wheels you will pay for that savings at the pump
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No, I meant cheap as in nothing special to make them heavy. IDK, that sounds like a lot to me. Besides, what do you care if I put heavy rims on the blazer! lol
 

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Just pointing out a problem like i do with every other post
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
;D ;D ;D
 

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Evildriver-3 said:
Well 40 lbs a wheel, don't forget that kills your mileage, so the few dollars you saved on not buying alum light wheels you will pay for that savings at the pump
LOL, your 6,000 pound truck kills your mileage, your suped up 360 kills your mileage, your non aerodynamic box vehicle kills your mileage, I doubt some 40lb wheels are going to do much harm :)
 

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Yeah but you would really be surprised, see the wheel weight effects the motors ability to perform, accel, cruise easily, and has much more effect on all 3 than everything else.
In just about every case when people go from 31's to 35s and think they need gears all they really need is to lose the weight to gain there accel back, see going from like a 30" tire to a 35" tire is only a few hundred rpm a 3.23 ratio is like 150 rpm diff at 65 mph between a 30" and 35" tire, a 4.11 is like a 300 rpm diff at 65 between a 30" and 35" tire.
So in dealing with that the 300 rpm difference isn't really what is killing your accel, but overall the lack of hp and the weight sucking hp of the wheel, this isn't to say that the roll out of the tire isn't affected or changed, but if you could get a 35" tire that weighed the same as a 30" tire you would see and feel that the weight is far more detrimental than the tire hieght and roll out change.
If you have steel wheels and go to alum you will feel the diff that it makes, if you have alum cast wheels the only way to lose weight is to go to a forged or billet wheel, or titanium, but until i can find someone to make a titanium wheel for less than a few thousand that is out.
This is why it is important to go to the lightest wheel you can when you go to heavier larger tires, same with hubs and rotors and drums if they are lighter they help performance more, everything in sprung weight needs hundreds of pounds even thousands to make a difference, whereas unsprung weight is pounds to get a difference, in motors grams makes a big difference, but everyone thinks oh heavy big truck so what kill it some more make it perform worse, you guy's gotta stop thinking like that, so what it's a few pounds
 

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well Marty, I went from aluminum wheels to wider steel wheels and I noticed no difference in accelaration, power or fuel efficiency. So from my real world experience, the heavier steel wheels made no difference. If it would of made any difference anywhere, it should of reflected in fuel efficiency.

So like I said, they won't hurt much :) Now I understand what you are talking about, but to show a gain in anything the wheel would have to be much more lighter then just 30 lbs per wheel to show anything. If you went from 100 lb wheels to 20lb wheels, yes I see the point, but going from 25lb aluminum wheels to 40 pound steel wheels, not enough to matter.

Mainly for the fact that a truck motor is built more on the side of torque then horsepower, unlike a motor from a car.
 

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Well all i can say is it works on my truck, and my friends trucks to, and there cars, don't forget Sam between a few of my friends cars and a RC there isn't much difference in weight, but they all get a difference.
I don't know what kind of test you did maybe it wasn't effective, it should have been instantly noticeable, a 10 lb difference per wheel is huge and unfortunately dodge didn't do anything different from 1 360 to the next, i wish dodge did build motors with alittle thought process but they didn't, but maybe there was no big leaping difference do to you went from 44/9.75 to D-60 on top of wheels and all kinds of other changes at once, you went from light to heavier everything. You didn't add tires and do wheels, you went to heavier hubs drums rotors tires wheels over the course of probably a few weeks so you really didn't have enough time to see how it all effects it
 

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Going from 30" to 35" tires is the equivalent of dropping from 3.23 to 2.76 gears. The additional rim weight has some effect of the engines' ability to rev up, but the increased tire size has much more effect than the weight of the tire and rim.

Another thing to look at when going to larger diameter tires is WHERE the weight is distributed on the tire/rim. Most people that upgrade to larger tires keep the same size rim. That means more sidewall, and more weight, all located further from the center of the rim than stock. Basically, the tire/rim combo has a much higher moment of inertia, so they are "harder" to get turning and "harder" to stop turning.

The weight difference between a steel rim and an aluminum rim does not have much effect, because the tire itself has a much greater moment arm than the rim. Like I said, the rim weight will make some difference, but not much...at least for the 15" and 16" rims most of us use. Now an 18"+ rim is a different story, but I have never seen an aftermarket steel rim for light trucks bigger than 16.5".

-SM
 

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Well all i can say is it works on my truck, and my friends trucks to, and there cars, don't forget Sam between a few of my friends cars and a RC there isn't much difference in weight, but they all get a difference.
I don't know what kind of test you did maybe it wasn't effective, it should have been instantly noticeable, a 10 lb difference per wheel is huge and unfortunately dodge didn't do anything different from 1 360 to the next, i wish dodge did build motors with alittle thought process but they didn't, but maybe there was no big leaping difference do to you went from 44/9.75 to D-60 on top of wheels and all kinds of other changes at once, you went from light to heavier everything. You didn't add tires and do wheels, you went to heavier hubs drums rotors tires wheels over the course of probably a few weeks so you really didn't have enough time to see how it all effects it
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I see what you are saying about the weight ED, and I see what you are saying about the 440 Sam, BUT! Can you beat an aluminum rim back into shape after you bash it on a rock? With aluminum, you are DONE! Steel and a 3 lb hammer, you can get it to hold air. THAT is a MAJOR point in my book! Plus the fack that I got 5 steel rims for what 2 aluminum rims would have cost me.
 

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Ah you see that is misinformation, you can beat a forged or billet rim back into shape, you can weld alum and re-polish it, even a cast alum rim can be put back into shape if it is bent, just a little trickier
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
And is a forged or billet rim $39.99? From everything I have heard, cast is MUCH more likely to break then bend.
 

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If I were going to buy new wheels I would buy steel. They won't dent as easily and won't loose pressure when it gets cold. Hell, we have monster 4x4's not prostreet cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok, I got them home now.
NTW shipped 4 packages, total weight of 154lbs.
According to them and the info they gave UPS, it was 4 38.8 lb boxes.
So I was thinking each rim was seperate, and weighed 38.8 lbs.
What I GOT, is 4 boxes. ! was the body lift, wieght of 12 lbs! One was a single rim, about 20-25 lbs. And the last two boxes have 2 rims in them!!
WTF? 2 steel rims weigh the same as a body lift kit? ::)
Also for anyone planning on ordering from them, the service was good and fast, but apparently the only way to contact them is by phone. All the e-mail address I tried bounced. :p
 
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