[RVA RC]

I went to bleed my brakes, but I’m a moron and forgot to put the tool in the combination valve to keep it from tripping. Opened up the bleeder on passenger rear and it did what it’s designed to do. So I’m only getting fluid to the front brakes. I tried opening a bleeder on the front and seeing if it would go back, but no joy. Anyone know another trick before I have to take it off the truck? 84 D150

 

[Elwenil]

The "tool" isn't used on '80s trucks anyway.  Stomp the pedal hard until the brake light goes out.

 

[RVA RC]

The "tool" isn't used on '80s trucks anyway. Stomp the pedal hard until the brake light goes out.

So if there's air in the system, which in my case there definitely is, you just close the bleeders and pump the brakes? And it resets the valve? The pin on the front is flush with the front of the valve, and on the old one it sticks out 3/8 inch or so.

Thanks for the help, and forgive my ignorance.

 

[Elwenil]

Don't pump the pedal, stomp it.

 

[712edf]

Do you have 1 (or more) people helping with the bleeding process? Does the pin move out when pedal is pressed?

Bucky

 

[SuperBurban]

The pin on the front of the combination valve, is the hold off section. It delays the operation of the front brakes to give the rear brakes time to move. It has nothing to do with the warning light. Even on the 70's valves the tool to hold the pin out, is only to be used with pressure bleeding equipment. Gravity, and pedal bleeding are not to use the tool.

As Lanty says, the warning light should recenter it self by firmly pressing the brakes, once they are bled. If it is not resetting, there may still be air in one side or the other. Also, do not forget to check that the parking brake is not partially on.

 

[RVA RC]

SONOFAGUN THE PARKING BRAKE WAS ON THE WHOLE TIME

Clearly i’m 100% on top of my game today.

Thanks gents