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Submitted By: Mark71GTX
Date: October 31, 2008, 04:10:09 AM
Views: 8355

How to replace rotors on Rams and Ram Chargers with locking hubs - Mark Wood (Mark71GTX)


Tools needed - Jack, jack stand, lug wrench, allen wrenches or torx set, couple of small screw drivers and/or a pick, snap ring pliers, 4x4 hub socket, hammer, punch, and a clamp.


Loosen the lugs on your wheels. Raise vehicle with your jack and support it on a stands. Remove the wheel and clean the area around the hub.


Loosen the allen or torx screws on the outer hub and remove the cap. Use the screwdriver(s) and/or pick(s) to remove that annoying retainer clip. Use your snap ring pliers to remove the clip on the outer shaft. Remove the caliper and hang it up - I just sat mine on top of the axle out of the way. Be sure to get the retainer clip out BEFORE removing the caliper... that friction helps! I won't make that mistake again!


Pull the rest of the lock assembly out of the hub. You should be able to see the bearing nut now. Use your 4x4 wheel bearing nut socket and remove the first nut, washer, and the second nut. Pull the hub forward to dislodge the wheel bearing.


Remove the hub/rotor assembly by pulling it toward you. Be sure to set it on a nice clean surface. Inspect the bearings for excessive wear.


With the rotor setting flat on a clean surface, use a hammer and a punch (I am using a bull pin in the photo) to drive out the lug studs. Be careful not to damage your threads.


Pry the hub from the old rotor with your screwdrivers. If it is really stubborn, you may need a chisel - mine came off fairly easily. Put the hub on the new rotor.


Once you have the hub on the new rotor, turn it hub down on a clean surface. Line the bolt holes up and drop in your lug studs. Take your hammer and punch and drive the studs in. I used the same cross pattern used for tightening wheels. If the studs aren't driven in as far as they were, don't worry too much - you can get it the rest of the way when you install the wheel - just don't forget!


Put a little wheel bearing grease on the bearings and spindle. Put the new rotor and hub on the spindle. Push the wheel bearing in and start the bearing nut.


Get your 4x4 wheel bearing nut socket back out and tighten the wheel bearing until it is snug. Break out the torque wrench and set it to 50 ft. pounds. Be sure to rotate the rotor back and forth while tightening the nut. After you get it tight back the nut off about a 1/4 turn. Install the washer and then the lock nut. Tighten it to 50-80 foot pounds. Ijust kept the torque wrench on 50 and gave it an extra umph after it clicked.


Put your hub internals back in just like you removed them - if you have a hard time getting the snap ring back on, just pry the u-joint out behind the steering knuckle - this should give you enough shaft to clip. Install the cap after you get the clip on.


Now you will need to use a clamp (most people use a c-clamp - I have a Vise-Grip sheet metal clamp I use) to compress the piston on the caliper. Compress it until the metal face is even with the face of the caliper. Don't be alarmed if your master cylinder pukes up a bunch of fluid - it has to go somewhere. Put on the new brake pads and install the
caliper.


This is it! Put your wheel back on and tighten your lug nuts (don't forget your wheel studs might not be seated all of the way!) Get the jack stand out and lower and remove the jack. Get in the truck and drive it. How do you like hitting the brakes and not feeling the whole truck shake? After you get the truck back home, recheck the lug nuts. You are all done!
 
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