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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In my Chiltons Manual (page 7-29 step 8 for spindle bearing removal - F/T 4wd), it says to remove the retainer bolts before using puller #C-4358 to remove the hub if you have an access hole in the rotor.

Question: I have heard that you would just use the puller. Is the manual correct? Fig. 81 on page 7-28 shows the guy removing the retainer bolts AFTER the rotor has been removed.

If I am replacing my rotors (brake job) to have them resurfaced, do I need to do this step or can I just pull off the rotor and replace/repack the outer bearing? Side note: how do you tell if the outer bearing needs to be replaced?

Where do you get the bearing packer? Part Number?
 

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You can re-pack using the palm of your hand or any jobber should have a relatively cheap packer
 

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if I am correct, the retainer bolts are the ones that hold the bearing housing cover to the spindle. Yes, they need to be removed. YOu have to get the correct size socket, and spin the rotor until the hole lines up with a bolt, then remove it, then move to the next one. There are 6 I think.
 

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i have a bearing packer. if ya need it let me know!
 

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Ok...if you remove the retainer bolts then the retainer and all the bearings come out still attached to the hub.

If you leave the retainer bolts in and pull the rotor/hub than 4 of the 5 bearing parts(inner bearing, inner race, machined spacer, outer race) will be left in the knuckle and 1 bearing(outer) will still be pressed on the hub/rotor.

FYI-the stock retainer bolts are splined and take a 12 point socket.
 

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i think theres a how too on this.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks. I just read it. Now that just pisses me off. I have to go in and do the same work in order to get the rotor off that the repair shop had to in order to install new u-joints. :mad:

That is the last time I pay someone to do that. From now on, I'm doing it myself. ;D

BTW, does anyone make cross-drilled or slotted rotors in this setup? Also, has anyone put better than stock brake pads on their rigs? I don't necessarily care about wear; just want stopping power.
 

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always do it yourself , axle joints are easy, brakes are easy, and its a 3/8 , 12 point socket, and there are six of em
 

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hey dude! you come down and help me put in my axle ujoints and i'll help you do your brakes! sound fair??? but we would have to do it at moms place in order NOT to get hit. i can move moms sundance and her explorer to make room for the BIG TOYS! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I might be able to. I'm putting the TD in the shop next Monday to have them look at the axle again. Maybe I can get some repair work done under warranfree...er, I mean warranty. ;D

 

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lol
well my PW might be heading to the shop tomorrow. i need it by this weekend so i may just have the front end done already but there is WAY more to do on it.... so i'll let ya know what goes on
 
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