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Just bought an 86 dodge d150 with a 318 and a727 trans, shes a bit of a fixer upper but its been slow but sure! though i have had a few hitches along the way. first is i am having some issues getting the idle and timing right, and apparently i have an electronic spark advance and a computer that controls the carb? feel like it's causing me more issues than i like, thinking of just getting a dist with a vacuum advance on it and a one of these carbs- http://r.ebay.com/5LTlmP if it would work? currently i have a holly 2280 carb. My state doesn't test for emissions so if i don't need it i'd rather just remove it.

I also replaced the power brake booster and both calipers and wheel cylinders, and when i crank it up and start driving it seems as if a gradually lose power brakes. have the vac line going from the booster to the carb.

thanks in advance for the help! i remember things being alot easier when i have my 83 d150 lol
 
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I can't speak to the removal of the computer and controls to the Carb..  But I dropped the below carb on my 1984 1/2 RC 318..that uses the electronic control module, mounted on the firewall..  The HOLLEY is a 500 CFM, 2 bbl, you just need a spacer made by Mr gasket, Oh and a larger round type air cleaner from a Ford V8 to fit the larger diameter of the top of the carb. I rebuilt the carb once and it's very easy, I've done about three different ones over 15 years and am not a pro. I just know basic carb operation, just follow the instructions to the letter... being careful with the small parts. The carb retails $343 at Advance Auto Pts, but I saw one on fleabay for a little over $100.00. If you feel confident you can buy a rebuild kit for about $25. I like the carb, because it's very simple, no sensors, no electrical wires to fool with.. just a few vacuum ports one at the base for your brake booster.. the typical.. I have the manual choke, but an electric one can be purchased to add on.  I have had no problems with it. Just don't have a lead foot and you will get ok gas MPG. I know it can be re jetted for better economy but didn't know how to determine what would be the best jets etc etc.. Also you need to set the float bowl adjustment. Be careful  as you will need to do with engine runnng .. Again follow those instructions when adjusting the float level via the nut on top of the float bowl. It adjusts the float to meter and maintain the correct level of gas in the bowl or reservoir just like a toilet tank.. The below is the mfg info on it.. P.S. Also the linkage hooks up easily, and when you floor it it responds....  It works for me..

  MFG INFO COPIED BELOW..
  The 0-4412 is designed as a stock replacement for 2BBL street applications as well as being mandated for some oval track racing sanctioning bodies. Whether you are looking for a replacement carburetor to replace your tired and worn factory 2BBL or one to push you to the finish line on Saturday night, the Holley 0-4412 Performance 2BBL is the perfect choice.

The 0-4412 is easily the winningest two barrel carburetor on the market, used for decades in circle track racing around the world!
Features:

    Gold Dichromate finish for corrosion resistance and classic Holley looks
    Intended as stock performance replacement for 2-bbl street applications. Also a mandated carb for some oval track racing sanctioning bodies
    Manual (Cable driven, hand operated) choke for precise cold start control
    50cc accelerator pump for additional fuel under initial acceleration
    Compatible with GM, Chrysler, and Ford A/T kickdown linkage. Additional parts may be required.
    Power valve blow-out protection
    100% wet-flow tested by Holley technicians to assure it arrives ready to run!
 

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You can easily remove the lean-burn computer system by installing a non-computer controlled carb and non-computer controlled ignition system.  Personally, I recommend getting a stock Mopar electronic ignition distributor and installing an HEI module in place of the factory ignition module (or computer in your case).
 
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