Dodge RamCharger Central banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,111 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 99 durango I bought for camping and I was looking to fit bigger tires on it. Its IFS so while there is an actual lift kit for them its $1500, so what everyone seems to do is a torsion crank/shackle lift or a body lift. Cranking up the torsion bars is more of a "show mod" than an actual offroad mod because ride,handling, and suspension travel all suffer, not to mention the extra angle places alot more stress on everything in the front suspension. However, the rear shackle lift is functional, because it increases wheel travel. I'm not overly thrilled with the idea of a body lift anyway because your essentially putting the body on stilts, Longer bolts on the body lift exert more leverage on all the captive nuts in the body which could result in them ripping or tearing out of the body. So with that as my reasoning, and because I always "spend $9 on a 9c problem", I was thinking of using a shackle in the rear and then making a tapered body lift that goes 2" up front to 0 in the back. Rather than putting the body on stilts like a body lift why not just cut and weld the middle body mounts higher up on the frame? A weld is much stronger than a chunk of plastic, and it gets the body mounts up and out of the way of tires and offroad obstacles. Initially I would just cut a normal body lift to make the taper and see how it drives with less caster, and if I like it I could make the change permanent. Anyone ever relocated body mounts higher up on the frame rather than use a body lift? Its alot of work for 2" I'll give you that, but I hate the concept of a body lift, or aluminum wheel spacers for basically the same reason.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
589 Posts
Sounds like putting an angle on the body might stress the bolts, which was the problem you are trying to avoid.

But honestly, body lifts have been around since forever, I didn't think they caused that much problem provided you aren't doing a high lift. And inch or two probably wouldn't hurt anything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
984 Posts
How in the hell are you getting less caster? Your way over thinking this, add a 2" body lift and be done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29,341 Posts
the "secret" to wheeling is a BIG a tire you can fit with as low a lift as possible [ which means break out the sawzall and the cutting torch ]

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,303 Posts
Body lift is pointless if you are wanting clearance. Spend the next year putting $120/mo away and put the lift on it. Dodge Boys is ABSOLUTELY correct. Keep the body low (on the frame) and increase the tire. Narrower tires should allow taller tires too
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,111 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was thinking of running 33x10.5s. I dont think I can run a 35 because there just isnt that kinda room before the footwell, not to mention the front D35 ifs probally wouldnt like 35's very much..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,303 Posts
I was thinking of running 33x10.5s. I dont think I can run a 35 because there just isnt that kinda room before the footwell, not to mention the front D35 ifs probally wouldnt like 35's very much..
I have 31 10.5 on my 99 durango. It's a nice look. I have not tried 33's on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
984 Posts
You wont be doing any serious wheeling in a durango anyway, unless a SFA swap is in your future.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,111 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Serious wheeling is relative, primitive/unimproved dirt roads tend to grow rocks the size of watermelons around here, when you only have watermelon type clearance...It may not have been serious wheeling but I've already slightly dented the passenger doors from a random log that was left at the edges of the trail that wasnt quite Dodge width...
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top