So you want to pull the spring pack apart and redrill the top main leaf, then put it back together in the new holes location? I am not sure if I would want an open hole in my main leaf, if that breaks the whole pack is useless.
Redrilling a long spring
Well, I've been thinking about doing the 63" springs like Sam did (probably not 3/4 elliptical though). the problem is I don't want to move my axle back 4"+. If anything I want to shorten my truck's wheelbase.
So I was thinking, is it possible to redrill the center pin hole 4" foward so as to keep the axle in the same spot even with the longer springs?
It'd also make the spring less susceptable to wheel hop and maybe ride better then if the center pin stayed in the center.
I guess its possible to redrill the spring because I've heard it mentioned before, I'm just wondering if that's too much to drill? And would it weaken the spring when the original hole was?
So I was thinking, is it possible to redrill the center pin hole 4" foward so as to keep the axle in the same spot even with the longer springs?
It'd also make the spring less susceptable to wheel hop and maybe ride better then if the center pin stayed in the center.
I guess its possible to redrill the spring because I've heard it mentioned before, I'm just wondering if that's too much to drill? And would it weaken the spring when the original hole was?
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That's hardened steel. It'll be a bitch to drill out. Since you are already planning on using the longer springs and you wanna keep the wheel centered in the wheel well why not just make new hangers to accomodate for this? You will have to move the front hanger forward and the rear hanger rear ward a bit.
Actually you would have to move them both forward, I moved my front hanger forward and and left the rear hanger in almost stock position and my axle is 4" further back.
BTW, springs can be drilled, my buggy spring is drilled. Doesn't take long with some good bits.
BTW, springs can be drilled, my buggy spring is drilled. Doesn't take long with some good bits.
Hmm, perhaps I could fill in the hole with my welder, if the hole was a problem strength wise. Maybe i could just move the hangers foward, but seems like redrilling could be better because it makes the weight distribution better. EvilDriver explains:
"Another way to increase a smoother ride is by extending the rear section of the spring, the section of spring forward of the centering pin is what controls forward movement and torque control and traction and braking traction, the rear section behind the centering pin on the spring controls ride and weight capacity, gm springs are usually like 50/50 and don't do the 1st thing very well, so while longer good they also center the rear toward the center of the spring, this is why there are tons of traction and spring wrap devices for gm spring set-ups "
The 63" springs are 50/50 stock.
"Another way to increase a smoother ride is by extending the rear section of the spring, the section of spring forward of the centering pin is what controls forward movement and torque control and traction and braking traction, the rear section behind the centering pin on the spring controls ride and weight capacity, gm springs are usually like 50/50 and don't do the 1st thing very well, so while longer good they also center the rear toward the center of the spring, this is why there are tons of traction and spring wrap devices for gm spring set-ups "
The 63" springs are 50/50 stock.
Umm... welding a spring is not a good idea. This will certainly weaken it.Hmm, perhaps I could fill in the hole with my welder, if the hole was a problem strength wise.
You're guaranteed to break that spring at the old hole location. Also, if you weld it, like Gerhart said, it will break.
You can usually redrill a spring about 1" or 2" from the original and be ok. Thats because the original hole remains under the u-bolt plate and doesn't flex as much.
If you wish to simply move the front spring mount, you'll need to move it forward 7.5" just to maintain your current wheel base.
Stock Dodge rear spring = 51", front eye to center bolt = 24"
63" Chevy spring, front eye to center bolt = 31.5"
You might also consider 56" Chevys or 57" Ford springs.
56" Chevy, front eye to center bolt = 26"
57" Ford, front eye to center bolt = 24.5"
EDIT: also according to my info
Dakota rear spring = 56", front eye to center bolt = 23"
Ford Explorer = 56", front eye to center bolt = 29"
You can usually redrill a spring about 1" or 2" from the original and be ok. Thats because the original hole remains under the u-bolt plate and doesn't flex as much.
If you wish to simply move the front spring mount, you'll need to move it forward 7.5" just to maintain your current wheel base.
Stock Dodge rear spring = 51", front eye to center bolt = 24"
63" Chevy spring, front eye to center bolt = 31.5"
You might also consider 56" Chevys or 57" Ford springs.
56" Chevy, front eye to center bolt = 26"
57" Ford, front eye to center bolt = 24.5"
EDIT: also according to my info
Dakota rear spring = 56", front eye to center bolt = 23"
Ford Explorer = 56", front eye to center bolt = 29"
Dakota springs are 24" (not 23) front segment, same as RC, but 2" longer in the rear. Both use 3/8" leafs, while the car springs are typically 1/4" leafs.
Dakota springs would probably be a nice road ride on an RC, may have to add a leaf, though.
I have a Dakota set on my Volare wagon, but in this case, the car rear segment is 2" longer than the Dakota springs, so I had to move the mount forward.
Dakota springs would probably be a nice road ride on an RC, may have to add a leaf, though.
I have a Dakota set on my Volare wagon, but in this case, the car rear segment is 2" longer than the Dakota springs, so I had to move the mount forward.
Thanks, I'll update my info. Maybe car springs with extra leaves would be the ticket for a flexy RC since the springs are thinner and longer.Bill55AZ said:Dakota springs are 24" (not 23) front segment, same as RC, but 2" longer in the rear. Both use 3/8" leafs, while the car springs are typically 1/4" leafs.
Dakota springs would probably be a nice road ride on an RC, may have to add a leaf, though.
I have a Dakota set on my Volare wagon, but in this case, the car rear segment is 2" longer than the Dakota springs, so I had to move the mount forward.
If you use car springs, almost all of them on Mopar F, M, and J bodies are KRAP, only ones to get would be from a cop car, and you would need 2 sets to have enough leafs to get enough spring rate for an RC. Also, the front eye is a big, oval thing with a huge rubber bushing. May not fit the front hanger.
I have one set here at the house, and know where 2 more cop cars are that I can get them from. AND, I am coming up there in 2 weeks. This JY charges about $40 per set for car springs. Let me know if you want me to snag them.
I would try Dakota springs first, if you want longer. 2" more is one thing, but 4?
I just happen to have a few sets of those lying around as well, but the JY wants more for truck springs. However, one set would do the job. Also have a set of RC springs that Duffy gave me, with one damaged bushing. The rubber is squished out.
I have one set here at the house, and know where 2 more cop cars are that I can get them from. AND, I am coming up there in 2 weeks. This JY charges about $40 per set for car springs. Let me know if you want me to snag them.
I would try Dakota springs first, if you want longer. 2" more is one thing, but 4?
I just happen to have a few sets of those lying around as well, but the JY wants more for truck springs. However, one set would do the job. Also have a set of RC springs that Duffy gave me, with one damaged bushing. The rubber is squished out.
B C and A bodies don't use the oval bushings, and the B and C bodies are pretty close in the weight they would hold, a C body which is 4775 lbs isn't much lighter than a RC, if lighter at all
Thanks Bill. I'm trying out a set of 56" GM springs, so we'll see how they do for now.Bill55AZ said:If you use car springs, almost all of them on Mopar F, M, and J bodies are KRAP, only ones to get would be from a cop car, and you would need 2 sets to have enough leafs to get enough spring rate for an RC. Also, the front eye is a big, oval thing with a huge rubber bushing. May not fit the front hanger.
I have one set here at the house, and know where 2 more cop cars are that I can get them from. AND, I am coming up there in 2 weeks. This JY charges about $40 per set for car springs. Let me know if you want me to snag them.
I would try Dakota springs first, if you want longer. 2" more is one thing, but 4?
I just happen to have a few sets of those lying around as well, but the JY wants more for truck springs. However, one set would do the job. Also have a set of RC springs that Duffy gave me, with one damaged bushing. The rubber is squished out.
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