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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I picked this up almost two years ago... for the missus to have a spare vehicle  :D  90 Ramcharger 360 auto  8)

Never saw the road much. Used it around the house moving things around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
A got tired of moving my spare 1ton axles around the yard so before christmas got the D60 in  ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
And tonight, in went the D70  ;)
 

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Now when you move your spare one-ton axles around, you can ride along with them. ;D
 

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That's about the same rust my 88 had, was looking to install Dana 60's in her.  Instead I traded both fully loaded RC's to get my 80 Powerwagon back. Picking up a set of Dana 60's for it today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Swapped in the D250 leafs today. I cheated - leaving the main leaf in the RC, adding the D250 pack, and a new center bolt.  ;D  Completely level :D  39" to the wheel arches on worn 235/85R16s

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Few days ago changed a leaky wheel bearing seal on the D70, and installed the spider gears. Picked up ubolts yesterday. Looks like I have to move the axle back about an inch, put a smaller yoke on the D70, and I may try a Chev front driveshaft (shorter) to work with the D60's longer pinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Another night in the shop....  8)

I was determined to use the stock RC rear shaft with the Dana 70. I dug up all the different yokes I had. A 7290 from a 2ndgen. A 1350 from a 72 Chev. And the 1410 I took off. The only thing that would match the 7260 RC shaft was the front D60 yoke. So I stole it.  ;D

To accommodate the longer pinion on the D70, I decided to make offset blocks. I know, I know... blockstacking is bad. However, I'm using 5/8" ubolts and its a stock 360 3.54 auto rig with small tires. Pretty sure a rusty spring hanger or ujoint is the weak link here. I recycled some Ford TTB ubolt plates just for mockup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Last night in the shop before I go back on shift....

Rounded up my driveshafts to see what would work best. In order from left to right:
- 95 dodge 3500 (NV4500/NP241HD/D60)
- 79 Bronco (C6/205/D44)
- 84 K20 (SM465/208/10bolt)
- 90 Ramcharger (a518/np241/D44... measure 34.5" compressed)

Looks like the K20 shaft will work. Just have to decide if I want to swap yokes or buy a ujoint. Wheelbase change barely noticeable. Stance looks pretty good. W250 RC should have been a factory option.  8)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
K20 shaft installed  8)

I ended up with a 1310/7290 ujoint, but the yokes are rather meaty. Also, the GM slip spline is larger diameter than Mopar. The shaft is about max though. Any extension and the spline is showing. I'm leaving the dust cap backed off for now.

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Progress screeched to halt when I went to bleed the brakes.... and two bleeders snapped off.  :mad:

I picked up a reman caliper, and 1-1/8" wheel cylinders.

New caliper, checked & adjusted the wheel bearings, got the temporary steering tie-rod in there, and stuck the diff cover back on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
My boy came to visit for the weekend, and we got the last of the work done.  8)  (er, well, enough work to get it to drive out of the shop ;) )

Changed the rear wheel cylinders, sealed up the diffs, greased the front end, and did up the rear ubolts with some modified spring plates.

 

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What you did is not block stacking... It is just adding in a zero rate because it is attached to the spring pack. Perfectly acceptable in my opinion!

Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I hear ya.... but these are not bolted to the spring pack.
 

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I just picked up a complete set of springs and axles from a w250 for my 88 RC.  I thought they were pretty much bolt on except for some driveshaft work. Do I need anything additional from the w250 for the steering linkage?

Please let me know.  Thank you!   
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
lv2bunderwater said:
I just picked up a complete set of springs and axles from a w250 for my 88 RC. I thought they were pretty much bolt on except for some driveshaft work. Do I need anything additional from the w250 for the steering linkage?

Please let me know. Thank you!
For the front... same draglink. D60 tie rod is shorter with bigger ends. You need D60 spring plates and bigger ubolts. I drilled the spring hangers out for the 5/8" spring eye bolts.
 

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Thanks for the info U2Slow.  So the rear axle and springs are bolt on except the hanger eye bolts.

On the front, I should be getting the springs, spring plate, and the U-Bolts.  I will probably need to replace the U-Bolts as they often break upon removal.  So all I will need is the D60 tie rod off of the w250, right?  The track bar is not required off of the w250.  Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I kept the RC main leaf, and added the remainder of the d250 pack. No track bars on 1st gens. Front stabilizer bar bolts right up to d60 plates.
 

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U2Slow,  My 88 is a w100 with stock axles and just about stock everything else. I'm looking to beef it up a bit and would like to use it for towing from time to time.  Not sure what the stock gears are as I emailed Chrysler and they stated their records do not go back that far.  The RC came with a NP435 and I think it is geared pretty low with the stock 318.

I installed a tach today and I'm steady at 2k rpms running 55mph down the road.  The D60 front and D70 rear axles that I'm purchasing are geared at 3.07.  What are your thoughts on that setup for my RC? Is it worth swapping the axles and grabbing a set of rims/tires to make it all come together?  I love the NP435, just would like a little more umfff  and stronger truck for towing/hauling.

Thanks!


 
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