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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In preporation for getting it smogged, I rebuilt the carburetor this weekend.  Found it was full of charcoal so I left the cannisters unhooked for now until I can put some inline fuel filters in like what I've read on here.  The problem is that now that the carb is back on and everything else hooked up, it won't idle, not even a little bit.  It starts great and and revvs great, better than ever, but will not settle into an idle, it just dies.  What did I do wrong??? :'(
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I set it at 29/32 per the manual.  I also set the mixture screws at 1 1/2 turns out.  Do those settings sound right?  is there another setting for idle that I'm missing?
 

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chad44 said:
I set it at 29/32 per the manual. I also set the mixture screws at 1 1/2 turns out. Do those settings sound right? is there another setting for idle that I'm missing?
According to the manual, IMS's should be trimmed out to 22/32 from the casting face to the edge of the screw. The 1.5 turns out thing is an edelbrock thing. It may be correct, but I'd double check it.

And yes, your float level is correct.

The screw that is almost directly in the center of this picture will adjust your curb idle. Try adjusting it (turning it in) to increase idle.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks, I'll double check the mixture screws.  Mine are not open like in the picture, they're recessed down inside a boss, so is that dimension going to be from the face of the boss down to the screw head?  I tried turning in the main idle screw more, and it didn't affect anything until it was way down and then it would finally idle, but at about 2,000 rpm!
I'm wondering if i could have goofed up something with the metering rods/tree? 
 
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attach a vacuum gauge to one of the ports on the carb, and then adjust the Air/Fuel idle screws to get the highest vacuum out of your engine...

but if it idles at 2000 rpm, then theres something else wrong, and you sure you don't have a vacuum leak?

because just adding alot more fuel wouldn't make it idle higher, it would make it idle "richer", so there could be an air leak, like the carb gasket for example
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'll check for a vacuum leak.
The idle mixture screws don't make it idle at 2,000 it only does that when the idle speed screw is turned wayyyyyy in.  the idle mixture screws doen't seem to be making any noticeable difference at this point. 
 
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yea i'm thinking a vacuum leak, cause if you have adjusted everything on the carb and it still idles high then (let alone with the idler screws all the way in, you should have a much lower idle) , the only thing left is a vacuum leak, cause its suck in air in from somewhere...

get a can of starting fluid and with the engine running, spray around everything, like the sides of carb, and if it revs up then have found your leak

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks, I'll give that a shot tonight.  what kind of reading should i see on the vacuum guage, if I'm able to get some sort of idle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ok, well I got it to idle, I don't think I had enough tension on the spring that holds the secondary plate closed on the top.  But now I have a really bad miss fire  :mad:  maybe I fouled a couple plugs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I was wondering if maybe I fouled the plugs.  the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and coil are all new.  It ran fine after I put them on and before I pulled the carb.  I'll pull the plugs and clean them up tonight as well as double check the firing order. 
Is it possible that the carb is only giving fuel to one side of the manifold causing it to only run on 4 cylinders?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok, I'm really frustrated now.  I started looking over everything to see what I could have possibly messed up.  I noticed that the metering rod tree would not move up and down at all, it was stuck in the up position.  Pulled it out and realized I had put it in backwards.  Cool, now it moves nice and freely, problem solved right? Just to be safe I pulled the plugs too and they were really black and sooty, numbers 7 and 8 were even wet with fuel.  Cleaned them up good and started the truck.  Fired right up and settled into an idle, sweet! (it still seemed rich, and the exhaust was pretty black, but at least it was idling)  I check a few things out while it idled  and warmed up, then jumped in for a test drive.  As soon as I put it in gear it almost dies and goes right back to the really bad miss fire situation.  :mad:  What the heck?????  is there something inside that could dump too much fuel if it was broken or not set just right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok, one more idea.  The flat o-rings that sit down in the bowl, if they were bumped off center a little as I put it together, would that cause enough of a leak to make it act this way?
 
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chad44 said:
Ok, one more idea. The flat o-rings that sit down in the bowl, if they were bumped off center a little as I put it together, would that cause enough of a leak to make it act this way?
yes thats sounds like it cause if you are having blackish exhaust, then its way to rich....

if you can start the truck and take off the air cleaner assembly and look down the carb, if its "pouring" gas down the intake then thats your running rich problem...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, I pulled it apart again tonight, and found out that the bosses below the primary jets cracked and started coming off where they are glued to the bowl.  I could tell the first time that they had already been reglued back on, but they looked like they were still on there solid.  I cleaned them up good, and JB Welded them on again.  I also tweeked the gasket between the bowl and throttle body so I'll have to pick up a new one.  Hopefully it'll run nice now.
 
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