Dodge RamCharger Central banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My dad picked up this truck in 76. A 1975 4 wheel drive 3/4 ton adventurer, W200 I think, Power Wagon w/ a 318 (at the time). It's mine now 8), along with all the memorable stories of pulling out fords and chevys while in the drilling fields in Wyoming, Utah, Texas, etc. Pulled broke down 50000lb rigs sometimes too at speeds of 40-60 mph at full throttle. Definetly a sentimental piece for me. :\'(

Currently the 360 police interceptor engine in it doesn't run... Last time it ran, it was with serious blow by and on 6 cylinders. The truck is 120 miles from me at the moment. Going to tow it to my house here in a nice residential area with the hopes of scaring away my wine fancy neighbors. ;D

I would like some ideas on what to do with it. I know I want to use it for a semi-daily driver, towing cars to the dragstrip (firebird ;) ), and trying out this mudding thing (looks like lots of fun). It has to look good (right now it doesn't). It has a Dana 60 rear, and a Dana 44 front. Transmission I don't know right now. I have thought of a crate engine just to get it running quick...not sure which one to get. My budget on the truck for this year is just to get it running, whatever that takes, then about $2-5000 a year till its done. The engine in it may not be rebuildable, but I'll find out when I get it apart. I was told these police interceptor engines were not good for rebuilds. Don't recall casting numbers right now. Hope to get the truck here in March, and get started on my summer project.

Appreciate any forsight.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
26,070 Posts
Well for towing, mud, and daily driving i would get a stroker or a bb, there are alot of Mopar shops building them so take a look on the net and see what you like.
The rears are good now you need light alum wheels and some better tires since you want to play in mud, personally i wouldn't get too crazy,... 33's or 35's for tire size and something only fairly aggressive since most of the time you will be driving and towing.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,548 Posts
I've dealt with 3 police engines and they are more rebuildable if anything. They are higher nickel blocks and even with 170K miles only need .020" overbore. If you want to rebuild it go with either Federal-Mogul H405P pistons or spend a little more money and get Keith Black pistons. You want compression ratio around 9:1. A tad lower if you do alot of towing. I would build mainly for torque. For 5000 you could have a pretty stout 360 though. Build the engine as a matching package. Need to decide before you build it if you want headers or not and same for aluminum intake.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,106 Posts
By the way, Police Interceptor engines are in Fords, You have a Police Package engine.

If you can't build a stout 360 for uner $3K then something is wrong!! I replaced everything in my 230 but the crank, block, head, rods and exterior tins (oil pan, etc.) for $2K and the parts were sky high! I had to special order a lot of parts, and I had a cam made by Isky. Unless you want to use aluminum heads and roller rockers, you can build a great 360 for far less than $3K.
 
G

·
Sounds like the cat that said the cop motor was less rebuildable wanted it for himself. Mopar, at some point started using moly-coated piston rings to reduce wear on their fleet-service engines. Along with what's been said, build for good grunt. You don't want a screamin' high rpm (6,000+) engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
A buddy who is in to Mopars told me about the motor having thin walls, not good for rebuilds. Your right, probably wants it for himself. Sounds like something he would do. ::)

For daily driving, I mean fuel efficient, too. I only know Chevies :-[. Got a tune port injected 350 with computer (needs harness) I could put in there if they make adapters for it. Pretty torquey. Might be sacreligious, though. What about the "full time" 4 wheel drive"? I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to trucks and stuff. I like the wheels that are on it, steel though. For mudding why would the lighter rims help? I'd say the tires are about a foot or more wide. And the diameter of the mud grippers on it seems like about 33-35 inches if memory serves me right.

I guess I'm thinking I need info on 3 things.
1) What do I do with the 4 wheel drive to make a 2 wheel drive an option? Overdrive possible?
2) How much torque do you think I'll need and where? 1-5/8" long tube headers available? probably a .475" lift in the 215-220 degree duration at 0.050 sound about right? Hydraulic roller conversions on these available? I remember the carb on this thing being pretty crappy. It is a thermoquad.
3) Body is in bad shape. Needs new bed, front, grille, interior, etc. Probably everything needs replacing just about. Where is a good place to get body parts that will work?

Later
TC


 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,424 Posts
A buddy who is into Mopars told me about the motor having thin walls, not good for rebuilds. Your right, probably wants it for himself. Sounds like something he would do. ::)
We all have a friend or two like that ;)
Welcome to the site! We'll try to be of assistance.
For daily driving, I mean fuel efficient, too. I only know Chevies :-[. Got a tune port injected 350 with computer (needs harness) I could put in there if they make adapters for it. Pretty torquey. Might be sacreligious, though.
Oooo! bite your tongue ! :p
It'd not be terribly hard to do, but why? You've got one of the better 360 blocks to start with,... unless it got really cratered.

What about the "full time" 4 wheel drive"? I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to trucks and stuff.
Part time conversion kits are available.
I like the wheels that are on it, steel though. For mudding why would the lighter rims help?
Steel wheels are just fine. Like any performance endeavor, light wheels result in less mass to accelerate (more rpm quicker) and trivially less unsprung weight for minor handling mprovements; but, for general purposes either will do.
I'd say the tires are about a foot or more wide. And the diameter of the mud grippers on it seems like about 33-35 inches if memory serves me right.
So at least you won't have to spend money on tires right away... of course if they're old, they may wear out pretty quickly.
I guess I'm thinking I need info on 3 things.
1) What do I do with the 4 wheel drive to make a 2 wheel drive an option? Overdrive possible?
As above, a part-time Tcase kit, and front manual locking hubs will do the trick. There are overdrive units out there... but they are pricey.
2) How much torque do you think I'll need and where?
Build the 360 as 300le mentioned, and you'll have adequate to plenty of torque. ED3 is a stroker addict, and he is correct that a stroker adds lots of oomph... Basically "the same" tricks you've used on Chivolays work on Mopars... compression, cam, clean heads.. One real difference is that the factory Mopar iron intake manifold is every bit as good as, or better than, any of the aftermarket intakes.
1-5/8" long tube headers available?
Nobody I'm aware of makes a very long (primary) tube header for this ap, altho that would help the bottom end... But there are a fair number of choices available, from cheapos to nickel plated Thorley TriYs... Hooker adjustables would be fun,... but I don't think they're offered.
probably a .475" lift in the 215-220 degree duration at 0.050 sound about right? Hydraulic roller conversions on these available?
I'll let the cam fanatics answer this one... go look at older discussions on the Technical Board, for LOTS of discussion.
I remember the carb on this thing being pretty crappy. It is a thermoquad.
Rebuild the thermoquad or a Rottenchester Qjet to use on the stock manifold.
3) Body is in bad shape. Needs new bed, front, grille, interior, etc. Probably everything needs replacing just about.
Where is a good place to get body parts that will work?
Several folks have posted body panel providers, maybe some are in the "Links" section of RCC... cruise around the site reading threads, or just post here, and somebody will find you an answer. ;D

But maybe one question at a time'd be easier... ::)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
We do a lot of muddin here in northwestern Wisconsin and no you don't want aluminum wheels. Steel wheels are stronger as for aluminum you tend to hit a lot of crap whene going through the mud.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,548 Posts
ED-3 Is a cam freak. Especially rollar cams. He can help you in that area. He tends to be more into high rpm and hp stuff and i'm more into low end grunt. He could lead you in the right direction on roller cam conversions.

If this is a late 70's police engine then it has 051 heads. They have high quality and expensive valves but they are more tuliped(larger pocket) then the standard 360 valves. Which causes these heads to be about 74 cc's. Police engines were rated at 8:1 compression while regular 360's were 8.4:1 compression. They use the same pistons. the compression is in the heads. Mill the heads .030" at min. This should give you 68 cc range. With 68 cc and Federal Mogul H405P pistons you would have 8.6:1 compression. Most rebuild kits will come with 405P pistons. Not the same. Make sure it has the H in front of it. There is usually a $10 extra fee for the H405P pistons. The 405P would only give you 8:1 ratio. More power could probably be had by using Keith Black piston's. KB232 would be the ones i would chose. Use the original windage tray. Mildly port the heads. Intake choice depends on the cam. Use headers and dual exhaust that is 2 1/4" or 2.5". I would go with either a TQ or a 750 cfm carb. Have the engine fully balanced and the cam degreed in.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
26,070 Posts
Lol listen to you guy's, Cam freak!!!, Stroker addict, people are gonna get crazy ideas and maybe the wrong picture in there head.

Alum wheels are the best thing for what you want wheel weight is super important when your dealing with heavier vehicles, every single pound in wheel weight will directly effect accel, braking and oh yeah you better believe it will effect your mpg also.
Get a good forged alum wheel, there lighter and can be hammered if they get bent, and i think the stories about the rocks in the mud wrecking wheels is just that a story, i run alum wheels on every truck i have ever owned, the only 1 i had to even hit with a hammer after i bent it was the 1 i ran over a hidden 6" pole cemented in the ground at like 10 mph, riped the tire and bent the rims lip by the bead, a few light shots with a hammer a new tire and finito
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,409 Posts
Check out this site they are offereing a complete rebuild kit for a 360 with real decent parts including a new crank and everything for under 400 Dollars. I posted this when i blew up the dodge motor and had the experts here at rcc check it out for me before I bought it. The general consensus is that it was well worth the money. I got the block worked for 5oo and that included the .030 over boring etc. Total cost was less than 1500 for a fresh short block, Rebulit heads and everything totalled out to less than 2k.
www.rpmmachine.com
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts
I bought my 75PW new in Feb 76 as a "leftover". Just shy of 300k now. Has been a great truck. I installed a Cop motor I rebuilt about 15 years ago when the stocker flattened a cam lobe. Though there are times I wish for more cubes, the 360 had been real good. I dropped about 2k in the motor using top grade parts. Today, I still get 160-170 lbs compression. 360's are a dime a dozen in the junk yards. Plan your rebuild carefully, take your time, check everthing twice, don't cheap out on parts or machine work. When your done, drive like you stole it ;D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just wanted to say "Thanks" for the advice. I'll try and get some casting numbers and a general diagnosis this weekend...and make some new posts.

Later
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top