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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, searched some yesterday and reviewed several posts with mixed findings. I am looking to replace my springs in my 83w150 shortbed with rear Dana 60. I want to keep the factory height without the lift blocks. From what I have read I need to get a 4 inch lift set of springs. I have extra leafs in there now and it made no difference on the wrap side of things. Pinion is climbing and bouncing like a champ. I have terrible axle wrap in second gear only on the np435. Only gear it does it in. I am looking to eliminate the factory lift blocks by using one of two kits. The rough country rear springs here....much cheaper for the set....


Or the skyjacker single leaf....


Don't really see a difference in either one other than two coming for literally the price of one.

Lastly I have also looked at a traction bar kit from FFS or far from stock. Linked here.

I may pursue this in the future. FFS HD DIY Traction Bar KitKit (60” tube)

60 inch kit for like 350 bucks is what I was looking at.

I know this would solve all wrap/hop problems. But some people are not big fans of trac bars for various reasons from what I have read.

The use of the truck is towing and really just hauling stuff. Don't have a dedicated mud spot and don't rock crawl or off road. So articulation is not a concern other than compression when hauling.

Let me know what you guys think....

Neil
 

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I would go to stock 3/4ton leafs; and a shackle flip to lose the block.
 

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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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The differences between the Skyjacker springs and Rough County springs are the Skyjacker springs are tapered, shot peened, tempered and claim to handle heavy loads and the Rough County springs are thick and stiff, they definitely ride rougher than any other springs out there. My DR40S springs gave my truck a slight lift with no blocks. If it were yer green truck then I would suggest a set of Cal-tracs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The differences between the Skyjacker springs and Rough County springs are the Skyjacker springs are tapered, shot peened, tempered and claim to handle heavy loads and the Rough County springs are thick and stiff, they definitely ride rougher than any other springs out there. My DR40S springs gave my truck a slight lift with no blocks. If it were yer green truck then I would suggest a set of Cal-tracs.
Definitely not the green truck its my 4wd for hauling the green truck lol. Would you say CCB that the rough country were way more rough than stock? I have a crap ton of leafs in their now and it doesn't seem to terrible as it sits now. I have been in one tons and they rode way rougher.

In your opinion would the softness justify the added (double) expense?


I would go to stock 3/4ton leafs; and a shackle flip to lose the block.

Haven't looked into the shackle flip.....

Will look into that next.

Neil
 

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I had Rough County 4" springs in my old Ramcharger and it was so stiff it almost bounced down the road, you needed a kidney belt to drive it. I hated it, I wish I bought the Skyjacker's. Yes, you are paying for a much better quality spring. Doing a shackle flip is definitely the cheapest way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I had Rough County 4" springs in my old Ramcharger and it was so stiff it almost bounced down the road, you needed a kidney belt to drive it. I hated it, I wish I bought the Skyjacker's. Yes, you are paying for a much better quality spring. Doing a shackle flip is definitely the cheapest way.

Thanks for the info CCB!

Any downsides to the shackle flip methodology of the top your guys' heads CCB and u2slow?

Neil
 

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Anytime Neil. Jungle sells a flip kit I think. u2slow I think knows how to do it with the factory stuff.
 

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Thanks for the info CCB!

Any downsides to the shackle flip methodology of the top your guys' heads CCB and u2slow?
I flipped on my W250. No downsides. I did it all with 2ndgen stuff tho... hangers, longer & wider leafs, Dana 80. I put D250 leafs in my '90 RC, but still using a block there.

Key is to move the fwd hangers down too so the leaf stays level. Jungle has a kit, and somewhere on here there's drawings for building your own rear flip-hanger (as stock ones are often rusted through).
 
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DR40s will only lift 4" with the block, you need 60s to get rid of it. So if the blocks are 3" (mine measured 3") then you should get about a 1" lift with 40s and no block.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
DR40s will only lift 4" with the block, you need 60s to get rid of it. So if the blocks are 3" (mine measured 3") then you should get about a 1" lift with 40s and no block.
Thanks removing block all together, not looking for lift just to get rid of it and keep near same ride height.

Neil
 

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if your looking for a better ride along with getting rid of the blocks could run the longer gm leaf springs with the shackle flip. Collin(4x4KLOWN) did both shackle flip with gm lift springs and it road so much nicer than the massive stack of leaf springs that where in it. if you were wanting to keep it at regular height i would assume regular gm long springs may get that along with the shackle flip.
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Agreed... Longer leafs ride better.
 
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