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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally got going down the road and realized there is a pretty healthy clunk going from park to drive or reverse, and from reverse to drive or visa versa.

I only have the rear driveshaft in right now, but I removed it and put a dial indicator on the pinion on the pinion yoke.

There is .306 rotation one way to the other. Is this a normal amount of slop? Is there a better way to determine if the ring and pinion are suspect? Anyway to find out for sure where my clunk is coming from? If it makes any difference, the trans is a 727 and I rebuilt it which was my first rebuild.

Any chance its in there? Any way to know? What clearance would that be in the trans? My overall endplay was higher than the book called for, but I was also told it would be since I was mating a transfer case to it. Thanks for the help

-Pat
 

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Sheesh, you'd think he was a newbie.  ;D

You got a 9.25 rear? If so, you have the infamous 9.25 clunk that everyone else has. It is a combination of play between the R&P, the side and spider gears and the pin and diff. Grin and bare it, we all do.  ;)
 

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Beleive it or not, I use my Clunk as a tool when refilling my transmission to let me know I have enough fluid in the transmission. ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
KThaxton said:
Sheesh, you'd think he was a newbie. ;D

You got a 9.25 rear? If so, you have the infamous 9.25 clunk that everyone else has. It is a combination of play between the R&P, the side and spider gears and the pin and diff. Grin and bare it, we all do. ;)
Newbie is right :)

Yep, 9.25 rear. Is the play a result of a shitty design, or just something that happens after 30 years and many miles? Would fresh everything clear up the clunk? Because I'd guess at that point, I might as well go the extra mile and just find a d60.
 

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Shitty design.  Sometimes it takes less than 2k miles for them to develop that slack.
 

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KThaxton said:
Sheesh, you'd think he was a newbie. ;D
My thoughts exactly. Then again, he is a newbie around this board...took long enough to get him here. ;)

Welcome to the ranks of the living RC's Pat...they clunk when you drive 'em! ;D

Gee, now that I ponder it, the RC's do have a lot of built-in advance warning systems that you find in today's vehicles... 8)

strange vibration - low tire pressure
rear end clunk - it's in gear!
lifter tick - quart low on oil
smaller drips on the driveway - time for an oil change, it's getting thick
drip on the passenger floor - a/c charge is low

Feel free to add on.... :D
 
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Hybrid 1ton said:
Newbie is right :)

Yep, 9.25 rear. Is the play a result of a shitty design, or just something that happens after 30 years and many miles? Would fresh everything clear up the clunk? Because I'd guess at that point, I might as well go the extra mile and just find a d60.
Whats up with this false advertisement in the sig? ;D
Hybrid 1ton said:
1980 Ramcharger
440/727/205
D44/D60
Zero Emissions Equipment
 

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yer sayin rear end clunk huh? don't overlook the yoke at the tx. i had a terrible clunk in my truck, not only when changing n to r to d, but sometimes after a stop and just starting back up i would get the clunk. i had some rear slack also. chassis grease inside the slip yoke cured the prob. ==sheriff==
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
88_mopar said:
Whats up with this false advertisement in the sig? ;D
Sheesh. I'm making all sorts of mistakes. I think that was a modified version of my old sig from my 78. I'll get right on changing that, boss :)
 

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Hybrid 1ton said:
I might as well go the extra mile and just find a d60.
Chrysler 8 3/8" truck rears don't clunk, Pat, and they're a bolt-in swap. ;D
 

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PowerWagonPete said:
Chrysler 8 3/8" truck rears don't clunk, Pat, and they're a bolt-in swap. ;D
Chrysler 8-3/4" Truck Rears don't clunk either and they're a bolt in swap too 8)
 

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ChrisKD said:
Chrysler 8-3/4" Truck Rears don't clunk either and they're a bolt in swap too 8)
True, Chris, but the 8 3/8" would just slightly be more "factory correct". LOL ;)
 

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yea i shared that healthy clunk until i tossed my side gears and spider gears

i hear replacing the crush collar with a solid spacer will take care of it permanantly
 
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