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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The 14 bolt going in my 93 has disc brakes. Just wondering what I'm to expect in the way of proportioning valve problems. Anyone done this?
 

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I put rear discs on my rear dana 60 on my RC and didn't do anything with the prop valve and it works well. I know Mopar Mudder (Brent) did the same in his W350 and it worked well as well.

Just do the swap, if you don't like the way it is braking, go and get an adjustable prop valve and fine tune it.

BTW, check out the TX Chapter, we get together alot, as well as the 3rd Annual Ram Jam will be in TX this year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info. I'll just hook it up as is and try it out.

Thanks for the heads up on the chapter too. Our first kid's due in a few weeks, so I'm chained to the house for a while, but I'd like to hook up w/ you guys for some wheeling soon! Soon as I get a pass, that is. ;)
 

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I replaced my 14 bolt drum brakes with discs about a year ago...very easy mod! I have my stock proportioning valve and it works fine. I might blow the money on an adjustable valve one day but it doesn't seem necessary right now. I did replace my master cylinder with one that holds more fluid for the rears. No sense in letting a little leak ruin my day.
 

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they didnt use a kit necessarly. with the full floaters they are sometimes able to use front rotors calipers from similar trucks (or eldorados if they want an e brake) and the brackets can be found on ebay but require modding. i think tsm does a kit aswell and that may be what some people used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Okay, I bypassed the proportioning valve, bypassed the rear ABS thingy, finally I have a firm pedal w/ decent rear brakes. I also ran a line lock into the cab to serve as a parking brake. Anyone know of a replacement master cylinder that'll hold more fluid for the rear brakes? I posted this question in the general help section but didn't get any decent responses.
 

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you most likely have an adequate master, what you would need to do is add a residual valve on the rear line, rear wheelcyliners normally dont retract as much and you dont have fluid loss, calipers retract a slight bit but because of surface area there is more fluid displaced and cause the low pedal feel at the first pump, you can add a 2lb or a 10lb residual valve in the line, this will prevent the calipers from retracting too much and keep the fluid in the caliper so that next pump or first pump will be firm, i cant tell you which one to use as each system will be different. i would say a 10 lb would be your best bet,

good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oh, forgot to add I installed a 2 lb. residual valve. I might go to a 10 lb. valve if the rears don't appear to be pulling the load. I'll have to drive it some and play with it some more. When I set the rear line lock it holds pretty good, but I can get the truck to move if I give it enough skinny pedal.
 

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I'm doing a rear disc conversion right now on my 60. On the residual valves you're talking about using, can anyone give me a part number or application and source of where your'e getting them?? Thanks, Psycoticredneck
 

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if anyone is looking for caliper brackets for dana 60 that don't need mangled to make them fit. get them from a guy on ebay who runs a small fabrication shop called great lake off road. 60 bucks a set and the only thing i had to do was paint them and bolt them on. you can find the guy on ebay by searching for "dana 60 disc brake"
 
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