Dodge Ram Cummins Diesels and Mopar banner
1 - 20 of 49 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone!

I’ve got a problem and hope someone can help! Years ago I purchased a rough country 4” lift which came with a block for the rear that you had to stack and also a wedge shim for driveline angle, now recently I have notice my drivers side rear spring eyelet has a pretty sizable crack in it. My question today is what springs can I buy for the rear that would totally eliminate all the blocks in the back?? Is eliminating all the blocks in the back a good or bad idea?? I just figured since I need to replace the spring anyway, I might as well try to get rid of the blocks while I’m in there. Thanks!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I’m really looking for what rear lift springs I need to keep my 4” lift to match the front and get rid of the stacked blocks all at the same time?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
865 Posts
I’m really looking for what rear lift springs I need to keep my 4” lift to match the front and get rid of the stacked blocks all at the same time?
Maybe go into your local offroad shop and see what they have to offer, then buy it cheaper online. Somebody here will be along shortly to give you all the answers you need, and then some.
 
  • Like
Reactions: blacklabelbrother

·
Registered
Joined
·
28,509 Posts
just do the rear shackle inversion
 
  • Like
Reactions: u2slow

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,169 Posts
Not only the inversion, but lower the fwd hangers too; keep the leaf level.

Jungle's kit does this, or move the stock hangers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,483 Posts
I'm also going to recommend looking at Jungles rear spring drop kit for eliminating the blocks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
907 Posts
Call rough Country and tell them you want the full rear springs. They make two kits, one with blocks and one with springs, they will sell just the rear springs but you have to call, no option for it online. Skyjacker DR60s will also work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the response guys. With money being a little tight I would like to get this done for as cheaply as possible. So I’m thinking I may go with your idea mopar572. I need to call rough county and skyjacker and find out if their springs delete the block. If it doesn’t get rid of the factory block I think I could just do the spring hanger flip and that would delete the block and be pretty close to level with the front!! Thanks guys I’m gonna try and call them today.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,379 Posts
unfortunately getting rid of a block by installing even higher arched springs will very likely result is a very rough ride. But, if you can relocate the front and rear spring mount brackets from the frame and re-drill new hole positions yourself ($0) then you open up a whole host of much better options, namely going with a longer length spring. I have put both Chevy Procomp 56" and 63" springs under the back of several Mopar trucks and have always had great results - same weight-carrying capacity, and a good ride considering the lift. For example, if you can chop off the steel rivets securing the leaf mounts to the frame then you can relocate the front mount forward and the rear mount rearward, and gain the benefits of a longer length leaf spring, and if you do a shackle flip you'll easily eliminate the block (use grade-8 hardware). Below are some pics of that exact process I did using a 56" leaf on a 77 Power Wagon, Procomp # 13511.

I didn't move the front mount forward, just moved the rear rearward; note the rear mount was simply 'inverted' and I re-used the OE shackle. You'll have to make sure your bolt sizes match up, but this worked great, and no block. Same process can be done using the 63" springs, which lends to a really nice ride, and same weight capacity. Procomp #13211 is the 3.5" lift, 13711 is the 5.5" lift. The shackle flip is where you'll gain the most help towards eliminating the block, so you'll have to take your best guess as to what lift spring you'd need, order one from 4WP, mock it up, tack the mounts in place, and put weight on it. With weight on it you'll know how well that springs works relative to the lift you want to maintain, and adjust from there, including raising/lowering the mounts, or getting the next taller or shorter spring. Lot of work, but when it's all done you have fresh, new, easy to source off-the-shelf leafs, a better ride, and no block. Some will say that towing with a shackle flip is a big no-no, but I counter that it's fine so long as the shackle angle is dialed in good when loaded down - I like to have about a 90" angle between the leaf spring and shackle with 'weight on wheels' (loaded with typical bed load and driving plan), about as shown in the pics, which don't have weight on wheels so the shackle angle will come down a bit, right around 90*, meaning the pressure of the leafs is 'square' up through the shackle to the mount, which is about as ideal for towing as possible. Anyway, hope this helps!
- Sam







Along with this, have a look at the below thread starting at reply #593 - it's another truck I did, a longbed 'low' W350, built as a hauler, with 63" springs in tension (not a flip) - just might glean more ideas...

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,059 Posts
So I was thinking of either a 56 or 63" leaf spring for my 96 ram 1500 gambler 500 truck to soften the ride. Can 63" springs fit under a short bed? I'm not really into the "shackle as your rear bumper look".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,169 Posts
Aren't the 1500 leafs 60" stock?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28,509 Posts
Aren't the 1500 leafs 60" stock?
YUP so the only thing you gain is ALOT of work and lose ALOT of money , just what YOU want
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well I called rough country and ordered their lifted rear springs. Guy on the phone says it deletes all the blocks in the rear and it wasn’t terribly expensive, so they will be here in a few days and I’ll install them. As far as ride quality I’m not really concerned about that since it’s pretty much always felt like a concrete truck anyway. Thanks to everyone!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
I did a shackle flip when I first did my lift. In hindsight it was not worth it. Lots of how to's don't about how you must move the front hanger as well to fit larger springs like chevy 63" or dodge 60" springs. When I did the flip, I just did the rear. It looked great, but rode like a dumptruck. The flip also changed the angle of the spring ( as I didn't know to move the front) and it made the pinion angle real bad and pushed the driveshaft almost all the way into the transfer case.

I got the skyjacker springs and moved to factory hangers, Glad you could get the springs from rough country. I wasn't sure they were even still made. Make sure they include new U-bolts in the kit or pick some up as it will make your life that much easier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
907 Posts
The rough country rears do delete the block, I have them on both my trucks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,169 Posts
If anyone needs to see all four OEM hangers moved/inverted for a shackle flip, here's mine.

This truck works hard with all kinds of loads, I have not regretted it at all.
 
1 - 20 of 49 Posts
Top