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How much lift did ya give it??
What do your driveline angles look like. You may need to drop the transfer case a little, the U joints may be binding.
Check the angle on the front shaft, I bet the u joints are at their limits.
Just a place to start,
Mark K
 

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You definitely need to rotate the rear axle and drop the t case with 6 inches of lift. You could probably get away with not doing it with a 4 inch lift, but you'll have to do it.
 

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Take out the front d/s, and put the tcase in high lock...and see if the vibration goes away...if it does, it is the front d/s. Also, just cuz the ujoints are new don't mean they aren't bad...it only takes a short distance of bindign them to ruin them.

You also need about 4 deg of shim in the rear end. Right now, I have no angle at the rear diff, and all of it is up top. I have a 6" lift also. I have no vibrations at all from the d/s.
 

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KThaxton said:
Are your driveline yokes still lined up with each other?
That was my thinking too. Wonder about the balance and alignment of the driveshafts. Easiest place to check first.
 

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Actually I am surprised you didnt have a problem with the front raised first with the extreeme angle for the short front shaft. Lifting the back would improve the front I think. All the tires are the same size? Sounds like tires or rear driveshaft, but the list is long. Just hope its only 1 thing. When a couple of problems occur at once its a real pain.
 

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It sounds like you need a shim in the rear to rotate the pinion up, or your rear drivshaft was assembled out-of-phase (the yokes don't line up like KThaxton said). Maybe this will help:

 

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Dropping the rear down to 4 inches would help. Are those rear blocks tapered or straight? If they are straight see if you can get another set that is tapered. That will take care of some of your driveline angles.
 

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Here are the measurements from a Skyjacker 4 degree shim.

Length: 122mm
Width: 64mm
Taper: 13.26mm big to 4.35mm small
Bolt hole diameter: 9.62mm





 

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I agree with Ramchargerman, try this, put the t-case in "Hi-lock" and then pull the front d/s and drive it feel for librations, then re-install and pull the rear d/s, do the same. Try to isolate which end of the truck is giving you problems. I'm betting its the front, Then for shims go to Summitracing.com. they will ship all over the world.
 

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If you have a NP 203 tcase, and it is still full time, and you put the rear on jack stands and 'drove' it in place....if the front end did not pull, the t-case itself may be yer problem.....it should have at least tried to drive off the stands.

If you put in 8 deg shims and it did it less, then try 4 deg shims.
 

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what is on the tcase shifter handle ??

do you have manual locking hubs ??

if you do, what do they look like ??
 

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that is a 203 case shifter.....what do yer hubs look like ???

if yer front end didn't pull it off the stands..either yer tcase is messed up, or yer diff is, or you have a converted tcase
 

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you have a full time tcase and fulltime axles....and since it didn't pull off the stands, I fear you have other problems.......it should have !!
 

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I don't know what to tel you..but if it is still full time, then it should have drove right off the jackstands......it may be just coincidence..I don't know.....
see if anyone else onhere has any ideas....I'm kinda stumped....if you had said it drove bad...that is one thing..but it didn't..so....hmmmm..have to think on it
 

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TheRamChargerMan said:
....and since it didn't pull off the stands, I fear you have other problems.......it should have !!
I have to disagree. For some reason, I've noticed that some 203 differentials are "tighter" than others. There are some I've seen that would just spin the rear tires like in Juha's test. Now, it is possible that it has been converted to part-time, but it doesn't seem like it to me..

Juha, was the rear driveshaft ever slipped apart at the slip yoke? If so, it may have been reassembled out of phase. Is there any movement or loosness in the rear drive shaft (make sure its in neutral when you wiggle it) u-joints or slip slpine?
 

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Often, on the slip joint, their are arrows that show the correct assembled orientation of the slip joint and driveshaft - they might be covered up, but a good alternate method is to ensure the "ears" of the driveshaft line up (even then it still can be 180 degrees out) and that the TC and rearend yokes line up too when everything is bolted together.

Rich
 

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Maybe this will help:

 

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Well, I would think that if it didn't pull off the stands, then the diff inthe tcase is not in good shape...mine would drive off off them...I know....I did it one time.....(oops--big time learning experience!). And if the diff is mesed up, it could be cycling power from the front to the rear and causing a very similar problem to what he has now.

The driveshaft phasign is a big thing too..so check it out real good.
 
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