Re:turn the key and nothing happends
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Joined
·
9,459 Posts
And, the important question about the fuse,... did the new one burn-out during your short trip, or was that just a coincidental finding ?.
I'd check the ballast resistor, sometimes they get pretty hot pretty quick, and go open-circuit on ya...
Check for voltage on both sides of the ballast resistor.
I'd check the ballast resistor, sometimes they get pretty hot pretty quick, and go open-circuit on ya...
Check for voltage on both sides of the ballast resistor.
Joined
·
17,422 Posts
on my 76 rc the bottom left one is either the main power fuse or the headlight fuse. can't remember exactly which right now. will check later for you.AZ-Trailduster said:
eric
The friend that showed you how to use the piece of wire knows what is wrong. Either he didn't tell you or you are not telling us. It is either a lack of ground to the starter relay or a lack of B+ to the starter relay. Find out which one and trace back to where the problem comes from and fix it.
Joined
·
17,422 Posts
when your friend showed you how to use that piece of wire to start it, did he also tell you to check your neutral safety switch. if it is bad it can cause the same kinds of problems you are describing.
eric
eric
Joined
·
9,459 Posts
Amen georgeda and intense...
I didn't say go buy a new ballast, I said check the voltage on each side of it....
You've got figure out where the flow of electric current stops.
DON"T just go buying and throwing parts at it... get out a meter, or a simple taillight socket with a bulb in it, or a continuity tester, and fin out where the fire stops.
The neutral safety switch is a good candidate...
as are the ballast, starter solenoid, ignition switch...
And even things as simple as an unclean, slightly loose or corroded battery, ground or starter cable(s).
I didn't say go buy a new ballast, I said check the voltage on each side of it....
You've got figure out where the flow of electric current stops.
DON"T just go buying and throwing parts at it... get out a meter, or a simple taillight socket with a bulb in it, or a continuity tester, and fin out where the fire stops.
The neutral safety switch is a good candidate...
as are the ballast, starter solenoid, ignition switch...
And even things as simple as an unclean, slightly loose or corroded battery, ground or starter cable(s).
Joined
·
343 Posts
should be on the left side of the tran above the pan. 1 1/16 socket will take it off. 3 wires on coming off it. Sometime the plug comes off. If you can start it with a wire, your cables and batt are okay.
Get out your brandy-dandy new test light, clip one side to the positive side of the battery, and probe the green wire with the white tracer coming off the starter relay (bottom terminal, toward the front of the truck, labeled "G") Make sure the trans is in park when doing this. If you get light, the switch is good. If not, the switch is bad or theres a broken wire. If the switch is good, however, put the test light clip to ground, and probe the "BAT" terminal. There should be light. If not, the relay feed wire is broken somewhere. If that checks out, probe the "IGN" terminal. There should be light only when the key is turned to "Start". If this test fails, the ignition switch is bad or theres a broken wire between the ign switch and the relay. If all of these tests pass, replace the relay. (This is assuming the starting method your friend taught you involves shorting 'BAT' to 'SOL'. If it's different, let us know)
Just my $.02, hope it helps!
Peace
Matt {peace}
I agree... Corrosion could be dropping the voltage at the "IGN" terminal to just below the relay's 'pull-in' voltage. This is probably why it'll "kick" if you hold the key for a few seconds. Find your bulkhead connectors (there should be 4 on or near the firewall right by the relay - [3] 8-connector and [1] 4 connector) Only one has orange wires coming out - That's the one you need to clean. Hit both parts of it with contact cleaner spray (from parts store or radio shack) and a wire brush (disconnect the battery first). Put them back together and start 'er up! (If you test the IGN terminal again the light should be full brightness now.)
Just my $.02, hope it helps!
Peace,
Matt {peace}
in arz.ill bet they have a votec there ...get in touch with the instructer ,and see if he or one of his senior students will run a diog. check for you.. here they only charge you for the parts then get to be friends ,with one of the smarter students and he can get you in as a project most any time you have a problem....tcv
Joined
·
4,071 Posts
I have this same problem on my rig. When you are having trouble starting it, tap up on your shifter, I'll be willing to bet your linkage is loose and there in lies yer problem, just my spare schange.
Me thinks you are trying to be a wise guy!!!Stevo said:Smokey said:Did we already rant about cleaning the battery terminals, and the connections at the other end, and the ground strap between the block and the firewall, and a ground strap between the frame and the engine, and, and,...
The bulkhead connectors have nothing to do with the grounds or battery connections. These are the wiring harnesses that come through the firewall for the engine and front end...and...and...and! The starter relay gets its 12 volts through these connectors, it doesnt just get voltage from thin air.
Now, AZ-Trailduster, have you checked the bulkhead connectors?
Don't buy a new car, buy a Chilton or Haynes manual. It'll cost a lot less!AZ-Trailduster said:
Old trucks are great to learn basic mechanics on, since they're very straight-forward and somewhat forgiving. There's no computers or other complex crap to worry about, and you don't need to spend $50 to hook it up to a diagnostic machine, only to have it tell you that a $5 sensor is bad. Trust me. Get a manual and study it. Keep it in the John if you want. It'll teach you almost everything you need to know to keep your truck running. Anything else you can learn here - just ask! I have a Haynes, and the wiring diagrams in the back have been a lifesaver for me. Now, with that said, close your eyes, take a deep breath, and relax. Feel better? Good! Now go clean your bulkhead connectors. You should clean all of them, since if one terminal has corrosion, it's a safe bet they all have it. But if you just want to get running, the one with orange wires coming off it is your main offender. That should cure your headache instantly!
Just my $.02, hope it helps!
Peace,
Matt {peace}
Joined
·
775 Posts
Ok my turn to rant. NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH! Mine just went to hell and it was doing same thing. Took me 10 minutes to check it. I went to radio shack and dropped 10.00 on a multi-meter (there on sale this week) came home checked the switch for continuity. Nope!! So i put a new switch in. 7.50 at auto zone. Al better now!!!!!!!!!
.02
.02
Joined
·
17,422 Posts
if you are stiil having problems, you might check the connections on the back of your ammeter. right after i first got my rc kept having some of the same problems you described.AZ-Trailduster said:
ended up being a loose connection on the ammeter. just another thought on the matter.
eric
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!