on my 76 rc the bottom left one is either the main power fuse or the headlight fuse. can't remember exactly which right now. will check later for you.AZ-Trailduster said:i cant read it, but on my 79 Trailduster is was the bottom left one
Get out your brandy-dandy new test light, clip one side to the positive side of the battery, and probe the green wire with the white tracer coming off the starter relay (bottom terminal, toward the front of the truck, labeled "G") Make sure the trans is in park when doing this. If you get light, the switch is good. If not, the switch is bad or theres a broken wire. If the switch is good, however, put the test light clip to ground, and probe the "BAT" terminal. There should be light. If not, the relay feed wire is broken somewhere. If that checks out, probe the "IGN" terminal. There should be light only when the key is turned to "Start". If this test fails, the ignition switch is bad or theres a broken wire between the ign switch and the relay. If all of these tests pass, replace the relay. (This is assuming the starting method your friend taught you involves shorting 'BAT' to 'SOL'. If it's different, let us know)well anyways, before i go buy a new neutral saftey switch, is there anyway to test this?
I agree... Corrosion could be dropping the voltage at the "IGN" terminal to just below the relay's 'pull-in' voltage. This is probably why it'll "kick" if you hold the key for a few seconds. Find your bulkhead connectors (there should be 4 on or near the firewall right by the relay -  8-connector and  4 connector) Only one has orange wires coming out - That's the one you need to clean. Hit both parts of it with contact cleaner spray (from parts store or radio shack) and a wire brush (disconnect the battery first). Put them back together and start 'er up! (If you test the IGN terminal again the light should be full brightness now.)since you have the dim light when you tested the circuit, I would be checking the Bulkhead Connectors for corroded terminals. you may have high resistence there
Me thinks you are trying to be a wise guy!!!Stevo said:Smokey said:Did we already rant about cleaning the battery terminals, and the connections at the other end, and the ground strap between the block and the firewall, and a ground strap between the frame and the engine, and, and,...
The bulkhead connectors have nothing to do with the grounds or battery connections. These are the wiring harnesses that come through the firewall for the engine and front end...and...and...and! The starter relay gets its 12 volts through these connectors, it doesnt just get voltage from thin air.
Now, AZ-Trailduster, have you checked the bulkhead connectors?
Don't buy a new car, buy a Chilton or Haynes manual. It'll cost a lot less! Old trucks are great to learn basic mechanics on, since they're very straight-forward and somewhat forgiving. There's no computers or other complex crap to worry about, and you don't need to spend $50 to hook it up to a diagnostic machine, only to have it tell you that a $5 sensor is bad. Trust me. Get a manual and study it. Keep it in the John if you want. It'll teach you almost everything you need to know to keep your truck running. Anything else you can learn here - just ask! I have a Haynes, and the wiring diagrams in the back have been a lifesaver for me.AZ-Trailduster said:I dont know where the grounds are for this damned thing. I've asked people and no one seems to know. I'm having bad luck with this truck. I special ordered a new speedo cable, within 5 mins of having it on...the piece of shit breaks. Then the truck stalls, and of course i cant get it started. I like my truck, but its a peice of shit. :\'(
I'm almost better off buying a new car
if you are stiil having problems, you might check the connections on the back of your ammeter. right after i first got my rc kept having some of the same problems you described.AZ-Trailduster said:i spoke to soon, today when i was going back to work from lunch, i turn the key and nothing happends...i tried a few more times (20-30) and finally got it to start. Then after work it started right up on the first try. I asked a few of my friends over at the dodge dealer, and they threw out a few ideas. (Making sure the connection is good between the starter relay and the body, make sure ignition switch is working like it should, etc.)
I tried a new ignition switch, and that dosent change anything.
I have noticed one thing though. Sometimes if i just hold the key for 10-20 seconds. The truck will sometimes start up. Anyone have any other ideas?