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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
when using the rcc shackle flip do you have to use them in pairs as in front and rear for front springs and front and rear for rear springs?looking at the how to it looks like only the rear shackle flip was used on the rear springs,if so with a 4" shackle flip on one end only you would get about 2" and a decent diff angle no????
 

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No with the 4 inch flip you get 4 inches of true lift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Even if you only do one end of the spring?
 

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If you lift one side of a leaf spring, your net lift is half the total amount. For example, If you lift one side 4 inches, you gain only 2 inches of lift. If you want all 4 inches of lift, you must lift both sides of the leaf spring. Pinion angle would change in the rear and maybe an improvement, but you should still check it to make further adjustments.

Ed
 

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My understanding is that the RCC lift will give you the full 4 inches, without the drop brackets for the front of the rear spring. Because the shackle flip bracket for the rear spring rear hanger actually hangs down lower than the stock hanger does, combine that with the shackle being flipped, you'll get the "4" inches. That is just my understanding of it anyways.I could be wrong tho.
 

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The RCC rear shackle flip moves the rear end of the spring down 8", that gives you 4" of lift, but you must still keep the factory block. If you use the front brackets, they move the front end of the spring down adding to the lift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How come the factory block will the aftermarket tapered ones not work?
 

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They will work its just that your pinion angle wont be as good.
 

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thegrimreaper said:
How come the factory block will the aftermarket tapered ones not work?
They should work fine. I used 2" tapered Superlift blocks with mine, but I also used 8" shackles.

Keep in mind that the stock blocks are slightly raised in the middle on the bottom. The stock spring perches are often bent or arched. I'm not sure if they were like this when new, or if the blocks cause it. However, when I first installed my aftermaket blocks, they rocked forward and back on the arched perches. If I held it to one end, there was almost a 1/4" gap under the other end. To solve this quickly, I welded a 1" wide strap of 1/8" steel across each end of the perch. The best way would be to cut the perches off and weld on new, flat, perches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Whats your opinion?I have 4" susp lift now is it better to use the rcc shackle kits to gain an additional 4" or just buy the 8" susp system?
 

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thegrimreaper said:
Whats your opinion?I have 4" susp lift now is it better to use the rcc shackle kits to gain an additional 4" or just buy the 8" susp system?
How is your current 4" of lift in the rear accomplished? 4" block stacked? 2" AAL and 2" block, or all spring no block?

What do you want out of your truck? Daily driving? Towing? Just simple lift? Offroad articulation? Smooth ride?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Current lift is 4" front srings with the 4" block out back along with my old front main leaf less the eyes rearched in our pipe bender to help out the rear.Yes its my dailey driver also about 2 kms to work and back,after i rebuild the trusty a-518.I just dont want to get hung up and drag bottom continuassley.All the 4xing around here is 10 min away so long trips isnt an issue.I like mud boggin the best but still like trail rides and exploring as well.
 
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