Is it possible to go to any parts store and pick up some r134 to recharge my own rc? And how hard is it to do? Reason why i ask is cuz alot of the shops around here want to charge and arm and leg to do this. Id rather do it myself with the right directions of coarse...
RC Air conditions
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my friend did it with his bronco and seemed to work for him. the rc's used r12. i remember talk of the r134a molecule being smaller than the r12 which some people argue the r134a will leak unless you change all the seals. my friend did not change the sealsand it doesn't seem to leak and a shop guy said he did it with no problems. r134a is available at parts stores.
wayne's automotive
10651 irma dr.
unit g
northglenn
303-451-6880
call these guys for a quote. i asked them about this a year ago and the r134a seemed pretty reasonable. they can even do r12 but that i remember was outrageously priced.
they are a decent shop, at least when i had to use them.
10651 irma dr.
unit g
northglenn
303-451-6880
call these guys for a quote. i asked them about this a year ago and the r134a seemed pretty reasonable. they can even do r12 but that i remember was outrageously priced.
they are a decent shop, at least when i had to use them.
G
Guest
·If your current system doesnt leak, then you wont have any leaks with the 134a.
If you are using R12 now, you do need to evacuate the system of the R12 oil. And replace it with the PAG oil for the 134a.
A lot of people dont do this, and it can cause trouble down the line. If you dont remove the old oil, and just add new oil, you now have twice as much oil... not a good thing.
You should be able to get a conversion kit (1) container of PAG oil, (3) cans 135a, a set of conversion adapters, and the can tap for under $50 at most parts stores.
Or you can go on line and get your 906 certification for $15 and buy R12. (about $40 per pound over the counter)
If you are using R12 now, you do need to evacuate the system of the R12 oil. And replace it with the PAG oil for the 134a.
A lot of people dont do this, and it can cause trouble down the line. If you dont remove the old oil, and just add new oil, you now have twice as much oil... not a good thing.
You should be able to get a conversion kit (1) container of PAG oil, (3) cans 135a, a set of conversion adapters, and the can tap for under $50 at most parts stores.
Or you can go on line and get your 906 certification for $15 and buy R12. (about $40 per pound over the counter)
G
Guest
·You can go to Autozone and get a conversion kit for about 35 bucks. It doesn't have the stuff to drain all the old r12 junk, you have to pay a shop to do that, the one already mentioned on Irma dr can do it. then take it home and fibish up with the kit. Hows Thornton anyway? I graduated from Thornton High in 1983. Memories, Memories.....
Joined
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65 Posts
It's really easy, I did it for the first time w/o problems. A good thing to do is get the red leak detector before you charge it up all the way, that way you can see if you need to change the seals. Also, definately put new o-rings on there!
G
Guest
·When I lived there 120th and Holly was a field. I was down there last weekend visiting family and was amazed at the changes. Places I used to go to neck with girls are now full of houses. Guess its true, you can't go home again. Good luck with the conversion.
Joined
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38 Posts
The reason Shops say to change the seals and hoses, is that the rubber o rings and hoses are intolerant of the new synthetic oil. In other words , the rubber will deteriorate over time. In wisconsin, you can even buy r134a without a license. ALL a/c repairs must be done by a certified mech. When the shops reputation is on the line, they are gonna replace anything that could cause a leak down the line. Cide's they get paid more right? I converted my Van when I was in nashville last year.I changed all the o rings and seals. On the GM van the seal that is in the compressor snout, is ceramic, and wouldnt have to be replaced if it was good. I dunno what dodge uses, havent had too many dodges with A/C if you know what I mean. 
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As far as heat goes, mine ran hot too and what i was found was that the radiator was plugged in the center. Have yours flow checked. Maybe a backflush would help too. It didnt help me, I went to Branson Mo and back before i knew it was plugged. Rad was shot by then. It didnt show up till I fixed the air and it got hot outside. Coincidence? I dont think so personally.
If your A/C seals end up leaking, make sure that when you replace them, that you also replace the expansion valve in the evap. Its kind of a preventative maint item.
~As far as heat goes, mine ran hot too and what i was found was that the radiator was plugged in the center. Have yours flow checked. Maybe a backflush would help too. It didnt help me, I went to Branson Mo and back before i knew it was plugged. Rad was shot by then. It didnt show up till I fixed the air and it got hot outside. Coincidence? I dont think so personally.
If your A/C seals end up leaking, make sure that when you replace them, that you also replace the expansion valve in the evap. Its kind of a preventative maint item.
Joined
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38 Posts
Unfortunatly no. My wife is from there, still has lots of family. I must have looked pretty odd to the neighbors converting my van to R134A in December. We have family in Antioch, Smyrna, Columbia and a bunch of other place I forget. We go there like twice a year. I should have moved there like 3 years a ago when my mother in law offered me a job there at a material handling company. Have too much family here though. Still, anyone tell me how the wheeling is there? Lots of off roading places to go?
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