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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm sure I've got enough room to pull down the pan and replace the rear seal with the engine still in the RC.

Can anyone supply me with step by step directions on doing this in-vehicle.

What is the best style seal to get? Is it the JV551 rope-style? How do you go about pulling the seal in and around the back of the crank on the block side? The mopar-style neoprene? What about the side-seals? Will silicone sealant suffice once the seal retainer is bolted into the block?

Any help would be appreciated. I'm already getting barked at by the God-Wife about the drops of oil on the driveway.
 

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I have a real short write up here:
http://motorsport.wlrgroupco.com/ramcharger_page_2.htm

I don't even know if you can still get rope seals, but if you can, don't. Get the two piece neoprene. I used a screw to extract the old seal, it took a bit of patience but it came out without having to get the special tool. You will need a couple dabs of sealant for the mating surface of the seal retainer. The seal retainer is held in with 12pt screws, 3/8" I think, but it was a while ago that I did it. Make sure you have the 12pt socket ready to go. Pan drops without any problems. All in all not a bad job.
 

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Changing the rear main on a big block while in the truck is a real PITA because the block is below the crank shaft, getting the upper half of the seal out and back in without scratching the crank is rather fun.

I use the neoprene seal with RTV for the side seals, works much better than the old rope seal and wood side seals, no drips from my 440 so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
440 4spd Power Ram said:
Changing the rear main on a big block while in the truck is a real PITA because the block is below the crank shaft, getting the upper half of the seal out and back in without scratching the crank is rather fun.

I use the neoprene seal with RTV for the side seals, works much better than the old rope seal and wood side seals, no drips from my 440 so far.
Leon,

What do you use to get the upper seal installed around the back of the crank? Just push it in? Do you rotate the crank while you're doing it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
william said:
I'm no Leon, but the seal kit comes with a little metal tool to protect the lip and you just slide it in by hand. What does Leon use?
Thanks William. I saw what you used for the install on your page that you linked. Is that just a flat piece of metal that you use to push the seal in and around the crank.
 

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No no no it is a highly specialized tool, very expensive!!! Or it could be just a really thin flat piece of metal. It came in the kit I bought (Mopar) all it does is protect the lip when you slide the seal in. If you narrowed down the end of a feeler gauge it would work just as well. You could probably do it without if you were really careful.
 

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Get a hammer and a piece of 1/8" brass brazing rod to push the old seal out, it will bend around the crank throw as you go and won't harm anything. Dip the new upper seal half in motor oil and it will go most of the way in by hand, push it in the rest of the way with a brass drift or a piece of wooden dowel. Put a dab of sealer on the mating edge of the lower seal holder and bolt it in place. The side seals go in last, they are designed to swell up in the presence of oil, dip them in motor oil and QUICKLY slide them in place. If you're using cork gaskets expect to re-torque the pan gasket bolts a couple of times the first few hundred miles to stop the drips, as the pan gasket(s) settle in.
 

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Suggest purchasing the billet rear main seal retainer from Mancini Racing and the seals to go with it. The "expert" shop with 20+yrs of experience tried the rope and the neoprene seals(for a total of 2 installs) and it leaked worse than when I took it in. The rope seal just spun around the crank.
The wood screw works for the rope seal, a 1/4" sq pc of aluminum about 4" long will remove/install the new seal. See above posts.
Lube the new seal well and push it in being careful getting it started around the crank. Be sure and degrease the block and retainer where you will be putting the silicone sealant.
The kit from Mancini came with 2 alignment dowels to aid in installing the retainer without it slipping all around with the silicone added. Reco the red, high temp sealant.
Good luck!
 

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I put piece of cardboard under mine and change it with the oil.
 
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