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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ford Maverick 4wd thread elsewhere led to something I've been chewing on - Cordoba body on a Dodge 4wd frame. Like chewing for years. To quote my favorite Dr: "Sir! I have a plan!".
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The B body donor I have I built cheap as a sleeper. It was fun, I've thrashed 20-30k miles on it. I've got 2 other nicer ones. 440-4, 727, 3.21 SG.
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The W150 donor I have was a rescue and turned out nice. Still needs a few bits. 360-4, 727.
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Both run and driver regularly. Still no room to do it and I've got a big garage.
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Having a wack idea about turning (5) 40' shipping cans into an 8 car garage
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It should fit great right where the ever greens are.
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It would free up room (old pic, 4 more now)
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Ok, maybe more than one plan. If I toss the Charger on the Ram frame, I'm calling it a RamCharger and you're just gonna have to deal. The other one will still be a macho clone franken ram but with a worse attitude.

Body off the truck, patch the frame, replace 203, D44 (have), 360 is nice, SB only engine pump for plow. Drop B body on, fab 8 brackets. Pick up the 8 points on the body where ya unbolt the suspension. Have idea for manual spool controls. Put the wires over the wagon wheels.

Source 2wd shorty truck frame, strip to rails. Graft on K-frame, rear suspension. Drop in other drive line. Put the truck body back on. Run the cop wheels.

I mean, it's just mostly re-arranging what I already have and using up some spares. Right?
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"The whole point of a dooms day machine...."
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IMHO, you need more space in a carport/hanger/pole-shed type capacity. Then only keep in your shop what you're actively working on.

The more common 'temporary' container-building that's done around here is using 2, spacing them apart, and spanning over with rafters or pre-fab'ed trusses. I've also seen it done with 4, going double-high. When you get to marrying them together and blowing out the walls, you defeat the 'temporary' aspect, and force you to follow your local building bylaw rules.

The trouble I would have with a 5-container shop...
  • low ceiling
  • no concrete floor
  • site prep for a stable 40x40' footprint
  • brutal cost for transport/placement of units
  • shedding water; roof longevity.

I'm on the fence with getting a 20' container, and it's still a formidable cost for what I will get out of it. ($4500 oversized garden shed.)
 
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ounce you cut out the walls of them to make 1 open space , you must install beams to support it all . better to use a truss beam building from the get go than retro fit into a flat low roof IMO
 

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When you get to marrying them together and blowing out the walls, you defeat the 'temporary' aspect, and force you to follow your local building bylaw rules.
Many places have changed the codes to include temporary buildings. They have it written, just not actively enforced yet. Think you can put up a tent, look close. Many I have researched, say something like anything built, or placed on the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
IMHO, you need more space in a carport/hanger/pole-shed type capacity. Then only keep in your shop what you're actively working on.

The trouble I would have with a 5-container shop...
  • low ceiling
  • no concrete floor
  • site prep for a stable 40x40' footprint
  • brutal cost for transport/placement of units
  • shedding water; roof longevity.
I'm on the fence with getting a 20' container, and it's still a formidable cost for what I will get out of it. ($4500 oversized garden shed.)
Have considered various pole building, concrete floor options, think this comes in less money. I think I can beat permanent vs temp with correct design. If a can is temp, then 5 bolted together are 5 temp cans. They can unbolt and go back on trailers. Objective is just parking for collection.

low ceiling - hi-cube can is 8'8"? At least typical garage door height
no concrete floor - thick wood floor over steel frame, set on 3 rows of RR ties.
site prep - excavation guy around the corner, have hired him before
trans cost - that could screw things, need to investigate
water, roof - see below
structure - when cutting out panels, frame in with 1.5" square tube to re-enforce and create bolt together point. Double wides and modulars go down the road with open sides. Apply expanding foam caulk bead when joining cans, seal seam on top w/ flat roof membrane.

I know a fab shop. They build entirely different things and this would be easy for them.
 

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Double wides are built with open sides in mind and have the structural support built in from the start. The corrugated walls of the container are the structure that holds everything together. Some square tube may not be enough to replace that rigidity. Around here the snow load would be a big concern with that. At the job site I’m on they had to put trusses inside containers to increase the roof capacity, and that’s without cutting the walls out.
 

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Have considered various pole building, concrete floor options, think this comes in less money. I think I can beat permanent vs temp with correct design. If a can is temp, then 5 bolted together are 5 temp cans. They can unbolt and go back on trailers. Objective is just parking for collection.
Gotcha... different building purpose than I imagined.

I'm only passing on what I ran into. Amalgamating multiple cans and adding utilities crossed the line. I can't pretend to know how your AHJ operates. So rather than test their statement, I had a stick-frame shop built under permit. It jacked my 'real' property value a bunch, so despite it costing lots, it didn't matter in the end.
 

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I no shit had plans to put a Cordoba on a 4wd truck chassis about 20+ years ago.

Then life happened I guess
 

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flat roof of conex boxes will pool water if connected together ,that amount of water and the roof weight , 1 1/2 tube will not support over that distance . please rethink , try this go to farmtec and look at the temporary structures made to last 10+ years
 
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