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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey RCC!

I am looking for a replacement prop valve for my 75 TD.

I'm not finding any that are an exact match to the original, so I'm wondering what other options have been proven to be good quality.

Any Made In USA units out there?

Here is the original...
Grey Automotive lighting Gas Automotive exterior Bumper


I am seeing this style pop up a lot on my searches...
Toy Automotive wheel system Gas Auto part Machine


Any advice on finding a replacement?

Thank you for any replies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
means Nothing , age is a state of mind

theres 1908 ford model T's running around running and stopping great
Since it's no big deal, you wouldn't replace tires that are 47 years old? Every mechanical part ever made will fail, at some point.

I don't think I'm gonna leave the fate of me, my wife, and my 2 kids to thinking that age means nothing.

Kinda just looking for a recommendation from anyone who has replaced their prop valve on where to get a good one.
 

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Maybe you shouldn't drive it at all... its an old truck.

Just kidding.

I had an iron one apart on my '90... cleaned out the rust, and got it moving/working decent again. Not sure i'm going to bother with another. I like the idea of the later aluminum, or brand new brass ones. Nothing special about brake biasing on fullsize trucks. Dodge, chevy, ford units will all work. Lots to choose from at Jegs or summit racing.

Get an adjustable one if you really want to dial it in.
 

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Get an adjustable one if you really want to dial it in.
There's the right answer there.
Throw the stock one away.
Go with the adjustable unit. That way you can custom tune the bias from the front to rear.
It does require re- running some of the brake lines. Which requires re- flaring the ends of those lines.
Work involved.
 

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To be bluntly honest, if that part fails, you still have brakes. if you're worried about safety, a 75 pop top ramcharger is not the vehcile you should be in. That 47 year old factory is still better made than the new junk on the market. Even if it was a 1970 hemicuda 4 spped convetible, in triple black with rare options, they still would not replace the functional original prop valve to put some perspective on things. My time is valuable enough, I dont want to have to rebend and calibrate the entire brake system replacing something that was not broken and doesnt fail unless brake fluid was contaminated with oil or water
edit- unless you have 4 wheel disks and didnt tell us
 

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My three R/C's all have their original prop valve, as does my 1969 Mustang. No issues.
 

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To be bluntly honest, if that part fails, you still have brakes. if you're worried about safety, a 75 pop top ramcharger is not the vehcile you should be in. That 47 year old factory is still better made than the new junk on the market. Even if it was a 1970 hemicuda 4 spped convetible, in triple black with rare options, they still would not replace the functional original prop valve to put some perspective on things. My time is valuable enough, I dont want to have to rebend and calibrate the entire brake system replacing something that was not broken and doesnt fail unless brake fluid was contaminated with oil or water
edit- unless you have 4 wheel disks and didnt tell us

l was gonna go down that road this morning , but l thought better of it because l can get nasty , but you summed it up nicely without all the name calling LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Holy cow folks, if it will make everyone happy I'll just leave the original on. Hopefully, I won't be locking up the rear brakes every time I step on the pedal.

I definitely don't want Deaner calling me any names! ;)
 
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I definitely don't want Deaner calling me any names! ;)

Yeah, you definitely don't. I cried myself to sleep one night :p
 

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Holy cow folks, if it will make everyone happy I'll just leave the original on. Hopefully, I won't be locking up the rear brakes every time I step on the pedal.

I definitely don't want Deaner calling me any names! ;)
It's your truck. Do what you want. I have watched every episode of FantomWorks. Dan was anal about all four wheels locking up at the same time. When they didn't, he would tell his specialists to go adjust the prop valve until it was perfect. He was well known for his comment; Brakes in 3-2-1 RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRKKKkkkk. Then got out and analyzed every tire mark.
 
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It's your truck. Do what you want. I have watched every episode of FantomWorks. Dan was anal about all four wheels locking up at the same time. When they didn't, he would tell his specialists to go adjust the prop valve until it was perfect. He was well known for his comment; Brakes in 3-2-1 RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRKKKkkkk. Then got out and analyzed every tire mark.
Agreed if you want them to lock up at all four corners evenly get an adjustable one, or adjust the back brakes if you still have drums. I have mine set up with an adjustable valve so all four nearly lock together (discs all around). I have mine slightly front biased for better control on corner entry in AUTO-x. (Loved Fantomworks, Dan made them guys work the right way, not half on anything).

Neil
 

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Agreed if you want them to lock up at all four corners evenly get an adjustable one, or adjust the back brakes if you still have drums. I have mine set up with an adjustable valve so all four nearly lock together (discs all around). I have mine slightly front biased for better control on corner entry in AUTO-x. (Loved Fantomworks, Dan made them guys work the right way, not half on anything).

Neil
It would have been nice if he had that shop heated in the winter tho. Watching them work in the shop, seeing their breath, made me col just watching them. lol
 
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Holy cow folks, if it will make everyone happy I'll just leave the original on. Hopefully, I won't be locking up the rear brakes every time I step on the pedal.

I definitely don't want Deaner calling me any names! ;)

LOL l was only kidding John , hence the LOL at the end of my comment

but to be fair your "comment" to me was a little Over dramatic as to why "jerseybud" replied like he did

a proportioning valve/ Combi valve is a NON wear item and unless you beat it to death with a sledge hammer or stripped the threads right out , it NEVER needs to be replaced and IS completely rebuildable = if it aint broke don't fix it
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
oes require re- run
LOL l was only kidding John , hence the LOL at the end of my comment

but to be fair your "comment" to me was a little Over dramatic as to why "jerseybud" replied like he did

a proportioning valve/ Combi valve is a NON wear item and unless you beat it to death with a sledge hammer or stripped the threads right out , it NEVER needs to be replaced and IS completely rebuildable = if it aint broke don't fix it
Is there any issue if it sits for a long period of time not being driven? Like will the fluid inside of it gets gummy or go the opposite way and totally dry out?
I can't say for sure how long it was sitting in the farmers field.
 

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Is there any issue if it sits for a long period of time not being driven? Like will the fluid inside of it gets gummy or go the opposite way and totally dry out?
I can't say for sure how long it was sitting in the farmers field.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, so old fluid causes rust.

My old valve was fine till i did some brake work and bleeding... then it jammed. Took it apart and cleaned out the rust. Seems to work now.
 
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Is there any issue if it sits for a long period of time not being driven? Like will the fluid inside of it gets gummy or go the opposite way and totally dry out?
I can't say for sure how long it was sitting in the farmers field.

just flushing the system will clean them out without ill effects , like he says above the "worst" that can happen is a chunk of rust which can be cleaned out
 

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Cleaning it out, should it be dirty, should suffice. Never a bad idea to flush the brake system on a vehicle that has sit for long period of time, crap does seize up, seals dry up, shrink, etc.

But no need to replace it if its not damaged, even if it is 47 years old. The one in my 75 is probably original too

Bucky
 
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