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Discussion Starter · #161 ·
Good to know.  Think I should find someone to TIG for me?  Or will a patient MIG with wet quench rag be OK?
 

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spot tac fill in . areas where you will not see , stitch tac only its not a matter of quench , its more don't get it hot at all .. or preheat and post heat which you can't do with sheetmetal ..... the slightly older trucks didn't do this , the 90's sometime it started .... a change in material used .  I can't answer you question directly , I know little/nothing about tig , barely kept up with mig when it became popular . all I'm sure of is you get what you pay for in machines ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #163 ·
I read on here about the crack-prone metal, maybe you posted it.  Exacerbated by PO who was sure the doors needed to be slammed REALLY hard.  And they do if one doesnt know that a $7 striker bolt will make them latch like new. 
 

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Discussion Starter · #164 ·
Done.  Not pretty, but didnt want to grind welds flush for vanity's sake.  It's not that kind of truck.

 

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napa has the door pannel clips .... looks fine . yes we discussed the cracking , heads together showed it was not just my truck ... thats a good thing about this site .... shared info ... 
 

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Discussion Starter · #166 ·
Door panels need a little more than just clips but that's a job for another time.  I've had some success stitching up cracks on similar plastics using an electric woodburning iron. Figure to stitch on the hidden side.  Need arm rests, too.  All of that is gingerbread stuff once it's reliable and safe.
 

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Chilly said:
Door panels need a little more than just clips but that's a job for another time.
Not sure how ratty your door panels are, but I trimmed mine because the bottoms were basically flapping around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
Huh!  Nice that bottom inside steel skins appear somewhat solid based on your photo.  Mine has speaker hole (no speakers) and a vent hole.  Could cover vent hole with a speaker grill if I gonthat route.  Mine probably wont warrant such measures, though.

Been cleaning and detailing interior while waiting on driveshaft and springs.  Old girl is looking pretty good inside! 
 

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You don't even notice the vent when you paint the lower part black.
 

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Discussion Starter · #170 ·
Interior after some cleaning and Lucas interior cleaner.  Cant use Armor-All.  Pretty sure I overdosed on it in the 80's.  When I use it I still taste Old Milwaukee and Swisher Sweets. 

 

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Chilly said:
Removed about a mile of audio wire yesterday. Old Guy doesnt need 2KW amp. While dash panel was out I cleaned everything. Stripped the wood instrument surround, applied Formby's rich mahogany stain, hand-rubbed several coats of tung oil.
What do you mean it doesn't need a 2K watt amp? :eek: EVERY truck needs at least 600 watts, bigger is better. My old 78 TD convertible had 1000 watt 4 way amp for the 4 6x9 triaxle speaker and a 250 watt amp for the 10" bass bin. ;D My diesel has an EQ, a 600w amp with 2 triaxle 6x9s and a 10" bass bin. That system has been in 4 different trucks. ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #172 ·
I suppose yoy are the "pimp" then. 
 

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Chilly said:
I suppose yoy are the "pimp" then.
LOL....... nope I just like good sound. Plus with a CTD it rattles and you need the power to be able to hear things. When I had the convertible TD I needed that much power because of the soft top. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #176 ·
Smear a little Ultra Black in the spline ID near the end.  Smear a little grease on the seal running surface of the yoke.  Smear a little Ultra Black on thrust surface of the nut, a little loctite on the nut threads.

 

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Discussion Starter · #177 ·
Gunned it on with air impact, which has tested to torque to 265 ft-lb or so on low setting by a dude on youtube.  I dont have a torque wrench that big.

Once I install new springs and set pinion angle this lovely new Tom Wood double-cardan driveshaft goes in.

Something I do that probably never matters is to mark u-joint caps so they remain in same position.  It really matters with main bearing caps and carrier bearing caps.  I doubt it matters one bit here but I do weird things.

 

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Discussion Starter · #180 ·
But now I need help from the laziest man in the room.  Front bokt is out.  Must I drop the tank skid plate?  Whats the trick?  I could NOT drop the tank but shimmy the axle to and fro and try to get it clear.  Then I'd have to disconnect shocks and brake lines, and...  lazy.

 

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