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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
Pulled starboard valve cover to reseal with fresh gasket.  After cutting and scraping away the apparently-perfect new gasket and buffing clean the lid I spotted a small square of old gasket clinging to the head right where I suspected the leak.  Hardest place to reach and see (of course).  New gasket is setting up in the cover.  For extra measure of hope I'll install and LIGHTLY attach with screws while it cures, then snug up tomorrow.  Still not gluing it to the head.

If I do it again I'll get Moroso silicon rubber gaskets.  Twice as expensive but if I replace half as often I'm more than happy.  I already bought two sets of Fel Pro rubberized fiber gaskets and may not yet have this licked.  Maybe the silicone gaskets are more tolerant of imperfections.  Dunno but they get high reviews.
 

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
Any clue what this fancy lump of steel on the refrigerant hose is?  A clamp?  Seems excessive. 
 

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the dodge magnum engines use the new style valve cover gaskets so 92 newer 318 or 93 newer 360 , cool thing is while they use more bolts the covers will go on and bolts line up with the old engines ( LA) thinking the stock felpro 318 mag gaskets ,

lump is a noise suppressor .............    ::)
 

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dodge82273 said:
the dodge magnum engines use the new style valve cover gaskets so 92 newer 318 or 93 newer 360 , cool thing is while they use more bolts the covers will go on and bolts line up with the old engines ( LA) thinking the stock felpro 318 mag gaskets ,

lump is a noise suppressor ............. ::)
That's a noise suppressor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
Second attempt at passenger side, still leaking but less.  Flanges looked pretty flat, bolt holes werent puckered in.  I'm ordering silicon rubber next.  These rubberized fiber seem pretty hard to me.
 

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agreed , the magnum ones are silly cone ... the mag head just uses more bolts .
 

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Discussion Starter · #147 ·
Bit the bullet, ordered new rear driveshaft and yoke, have to find other work to do.  I have the rear hatch seal from PRP and a tube of sealant so let's go!

After first dry fitup I found 1.5" gap at the ends.  Man, nothing is easy.  After contacting PRP I figured to try again with some tension.  Not a lot, just a gentle tension like lacing up your gal's corset (how old do I seem just now?).  With not much tension on a warmish day I get the ends to meet.  I think I'll go ahead and glue it.  But this Permatex glue sets up fast.  You get ONE shot at it. So I marked gasket and truck every so often with a Sharpie so I can know I'm properly tensioned to meet at the joint. 

 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
Time to get after the expensive stuff.  Need to be USING this RC, not storing it.

Rear spring situation: factory blocks, 4" lift blocks, mismatched u-joint angles.  Factory springs appear OK but not wanting to commit to a permanent lift with shackle flip.  So I'll upgrade the Skyjacker "cheap" lift by installing the proper 4" springs.

Driveshaft situation: 7260 xfer case yoke has a washed out seat under one cap, shows severe rubbing on opposite side.  Dude ran this a very worn joint for a while until it broke (evidence of dropped shaft on underside of truck).  Opposing yoke on driiveshaft also worn.  Vibration at around 15 mph.  A lot wrong with this driveshaft.  Ordered replacement xfer case yoke (spicer this time) and new shaft from Tom Wood.

Tried out my new Harborfreight 1/2" impact (Earthquake XT).  It seems like a pretty decent impact.  Loosened up spring hardware in preparation for replacement.  I do love working on a truck that hasnt experienced salt.
 

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Chilly said:
Time to get after the expensive stuff. Need to be USING this RC, not storing it.

Driveshaft situation: 7260 xfer case yoke has a washed out seat under one cap, shows severe rubbing on opposite side. Dude ran this a very worn joint for a while until it broke (evidence of dropped shaft on underside of truck). Opposing yoke on driiveshaft also worn. Vibration at around 15 mph. A lot wrong with this driveshaft. Ordered replacement xfer case yoke (spicer this time) and new shaft from Tom Wood.
I'm glad to see you went this route.
I know it's more expensive... but so many guys around here are always trying to find replacement used shafts of longer/ shorter length. I'm a big believer of doing it right the first time instead of cutting a corner. Then having to do it again in a few years. I'd rather wait and save money until I had it to buy quality.
My driveshafts have been under my truck for at least 15 years with the same u-joints that came on them when I had them custom built.
They weren't the cheapest way to go, but I haven't had to fool with them at all except for an occasional lubing. That included a trip to Alaska... and more than one burn out.

Now where's that piece of wood... knock knock!
 

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Chilly said:
Time to get after the expensive stuff. Need to be USING this RC, not storing it.

Rear spring situation: factory blocks, 4" lift blocks, mismatched u-joint angles. Factory springs appear OK but not wanting to commit to a permanent lift with shackle flip. So I'll upgrade the Skyjacker "cheap" lift by installing the proper 4" springs.

Driveshaft situation: 7260 xfer case yoke has a washed out seat under one cap, shows severe rubbing on opposite side. Dude ran this a very worn joint for a while until it broke (evidence of dropped shaft on underside of truck). Opposing yoke on driiveshaft also worn. Vibration at around 15 mph. A lot wrong with this driveshaft. Ordered replacement xfer case yoke (spicer this time) and new shaft from Tom Wood.

Tried out my new Harborfreight 1/2" impact (Earthquake XT). It seems like a pretty decent impact. Loosened up spring hardware in preparation for replacement. I do love working on a truck that hasnt experienced salt.
Rough Country is running specials now. Just ordered my rear springs...just FYI.
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
Nice price on Rough Country.  But truck presently has the cheapo Skyjacker kit that comes with blocks for rear.  Adding SJ rear springs gets me the complete system.  If I have issues with a mixed kit I can be assured I'll get no support from either company.
 

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Discussion Starter · #153 ·
Filler work detour.  Had upper trim removed from rear hatch for weatherstrip replacement.  One hole had bottom broken out and piece was missing.  Cleaned up the plastic and scuffed around the hole.  Also found a nice little washer that fits the hole. 

 

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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
Washer seated with a blob of plastic dough on backside.  Takes about 10 min to cure

 

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Discussion Starter · #155 ·
I'll have to whittle this mound after it's cured, then drill a new hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
Removed about a mile of audio wire yesterday.  Old Guy doesnt need 2KW amp.  While dash panel was out I cleaned everything.  Stripped the wood instrument surround, applied Formby's rich mahogany stain, hand-rubbed several coats of tung oil.

 

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Discussion Starter · #159 ·
More filler material.  Serious door cracks.  Need to weld but for now I'll drill ends of cracks.  When I have a mind to pull battery cables I have some screw holes to hit, along with these cracks.

 

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when you DO weld those kind of cracks , keep the process as cold as you can , or cracks will appear right next to your welds , it is a,  the material the door is made of problem .
 
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