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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My version of a rescue pet except I don't get any "virtue signaling" credits from millennials.  Purchased from a 101st Airborne fellow at Ft Campbell who was about to PCS to Germany.  He put a lot of money into it in past few years, and some things I would prefer he not have done (lift and 33" arent my preference).  But price was right, and best of all its a California truck all its life until he brought it to middle TN four years ago.  Being from PA where vehicles melt away beneath you, I am a sucker for a rust free body.

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Part of being practical is spending money for max benefit.  Out of the gate that means making sure it is safe, and that no harm comes to it from some undiscovered neglect.

While checking it out I noticed scars on underside right exactly at the front of the rear driveshaft.  That explains 500 mi on supposedly-rebuilt transfer case.  Tugging on the shaft I detected a loose strap on one u-joint cap.  This thing was about to pull a repeat.  I fixed that this weekend with a u-joint strap kit from NAPA.  In the photo you can see the battle damage, and also the conspicuously absent exhaust which was cut just forward of the damage.  I'll bet he needed to clean out his drawers after that one. And I'm not 100% confident that I dont have a rear end issue as a result.  Havent opened it up yet. 

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Because I intended to use thread locker, I hosed out bolt holed with brake cleaner, let dry, then twisted in a 30-cal bronze bore brush to clean out threads.  Sprayed again, let dry, and used medium strength thread locker.

The old straps seem to have been stretched, no longer holding one cap tightly.  The joint is not sloppy otherwise and appears to be a recent replacement (likely 500 mi ago when xfer case was changed).  I do sense driveline vibrations but I think I know why, and perhaps the reason why he dropped a driveshaft to begin with.But
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Check this out: near zero pinion angle.  Previous post shows front u-joint, not a CV joint.  Not good.  Also visible is the lift block with angled bottom to intentionally tilt the pinion.  We have a situation where the front u-joint velocity does not match the rear u-joint velocity.  Probably hard on xfer case output bearing, rhe u-joints, and rear axle pinion bearing.


 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That's a pretty big balance weight to be missing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here is some damage I just noticed.  That piece of metal that parallels the frame used to tie into the hat channel where the hole is torn out.  And the body used to not be cracked above it, either.  Well, it's still not rusted...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Onto the engine.  Had a super cool K&N filter assembly with a not-so-cool unplugged port on the bottom.  So I put on the original filter assembly that came with the truck, and a new paper filter.  This engine would have to spin really fast before the difference in an air cleaner make a lick of difference.  It's a factory truck engine.  The K&N can go to a kid cooler than me.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Wasnt sure about this engine, mind still not made up.  Guy thought it was a new crate engine.  Receipt from shop who installed it says rebuild.  Either way I did compression check on warm engine with throttle open and all plugs pulled.

1: 130
2: 135
3: 130
4: 116
5: 133
6: 116
7: 137
8: 130

Might have something going on with right bank between 4&6.  I'll watch coolant usage, which I dont smell or detect yet.  Removed plugs all looked terrific and even.  Oil looks good, too.  Probably put this on the watch list before pulling heads. 
 

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I think I saw that truck listed on c.l. or somewhere in my searches.  Glad it made it to a good home.  Looks like you're doing all the right fixes.  I would probably replace the stacked lift blocks in the rear eventually.  Great find.  up here in the rust belt they're just do hard to find.
Eric
 

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I would get rid of the blocks in the rear as Mttaff said with 4" springs. Nice find!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
As near as this Dodge novice can tell the CAD system is complete but I get no locky-locky action.  Yes, engine was running and shifted into 4WD.  And you would be correct to question me.  These space age 1990 contraptions like CAD are super modern to me.

Rather than figure out how to fix it I'll just lock it and source some manual hubs.

It didnt fail for lack of exterior lubrication...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I think I understand how some people get crossed up on which way to move the fork when doing a CAD lock.  My sliding collar is disconnected when slid fully inboard and fully outboard.  "Locked" is somewhere in the middle.  And because I didnt pay attention I now have to do some research.  Splines are purty and clean so this should be trivial (says every prideful jerk before disaster).

The little plastic shoes look like new.  I guess not functioning makes parts last longer. 



 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
50/50/90 chance that moving fork permanently toward passenger side (away from air diapragm) is the right direction.

Here is the clip I'm removing using a stout hook.  Whimpy dental hook probably wouldnt do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Slid for away from diaphragm, reinstalled clip using flat pumch and little hammer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
How about that!  All locked up and put back together.  Didnt take long.  Outer u joints look pretty dry. Not sloppy, but probably need replaced before I do anything where I absolutely need 4wd.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
mttaff said:
I think I saw that truck listed on c.l. or somewhere in my searches. Glad it made it to a good home. Looks like you're doing all the right fixes. I would probably replace the stacked lift blocks in the rear eventually. Great find. up here in the rust belt they're just do hard to find.
Eric
I found it on Facebook Marketplace. Was actually looking at 1990's Yukons, Jeep XJ. Never was a Dodge guy for some reason. But I'm very much liking this truck so far!

I will put rear springs on the list. The flat stockers probably ride better but I'd hate to spit out a block when I inevitably play with it. AND I should probably do it before changing driveshaft to a CV joint. For 4" lift tilting the pinion is not necessary for such a long driveshaft (other project is a 1973 Jeep CJ5). So maybe my driveshaft angle problem goes away when I put on springs! Thanks for the recommendation. Very practical!
 

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Chilly said:
I will put rear springs on the list. The flat stockers probably ride better but I'd hate to spit out a block when I inevitably play with it. AND I should probably do it before changing driveshaft to a CV joint. For 4" lift tilting the pinion is not necessary for such a long driveshaft (other project is a 1973 Jeep CJ5). So maybe my driveshaft angle problem goes away when I put on springs! Thanks for the recommendation. Very practical!
I put in D250 leafs and the W250's 6" block. Ujoint angles are correct, but really, really close to bind because the rear driveshaft is short, and the small 7260 joints/ends don't angulate much.
https://ramchargercentral.com/projects/red-w250-ramcharger/

I'm looking toward copying what Ford did on the Bronco - lift the pinion and run a rear CV. Ford used a ~10 degree wedge shim. A rear shackle flip should do about the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Put some Seafoam in crankcase and warmed it up for a while before changing the oil.  Have a ticking lifter around #8.  I like seafoam but I'll only add it just prior to a change and let it idle until hot.  After oil change the tick has lessened.  Put in full synthetic 5W-30.

Keeping an eye on coolant for bubbling in tank.  Havent seen any yet but lid was nearly broken off.  I dig little free projects. 

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Someone had a super genius welder friend.  This is not OEM, I think?  Nice work. 

 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I wonder if the ticking lifter and lower cylinder pressure on two cylinders on right bank are related?

Anyhow, I have Warn Premiums on order.
 
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