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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last year I swore I was going to sell the 92 gasser or 93 diesel W250.  That lasted for 1 year and then bought a 93 for 300 and today a 89 for 400.  So now I have 5 trucks- cant maintain 3.  The "logic" behind the 93 was good for parts, cheap borgeson, cheap optima, cheap magnum wiring hanress.  i knew it was rusted beyond repair. 

The logic behind the 89 was solely for the cab. To repair the 93.  Which I had to buy a JY frame for.  Ironically I figured fixing the 93 would use some parts up from my stash, but it turns out the 89 is in good shape.  So now I have more parts to store

The 89- W150 LE. 5.2/727/241/3.21.  Tranny has no reverse.  Fenders are perfect.  Grille was destroyed when hood cable broke.  Rear frame is gonzo.  Dont know what the bondo on the roof is for- Roof does have bubbles and is thin in one spot.  Supposed to have a replacement lined up for that.  Drivers side floor pan needs to be done.  Rockers are immaculate b/c of the running boards- just perfect, as are forward cab mounts.  Rear drivers cab mount has a small hole.  Supposed to have 68k miles on it.  Interiors is quite good, esp door panels. 

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Drove 4 hours one way to get it.  Gambling roof would be OK since thats what takes the most time.  Got a Fisher plow with snowfoil on it.  No wiring destruction other than battery cables.  Got a super cool Mopar accesory brochure in the glovebox.  Bought it from great grandkid of original owner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Pics of 93 below.  frame rusted.  Worst cab i've ever seen- everything gone.  Will be donating engine, wiring, axles (3.55s) and doodads.  Gotta decide on interiors color.  Will be painting it basecoat white with  the bottom gold clear/base.  Using 94-96 ford alcoa wheels (grind out centers).  Using it as a plow truck so the tractor doesnt get used when its cold out.  Cause dodge trucks are cheap but John Deeres are not.

Will be a 89 body with 93 5.2/46rh/241/3.55s essentially

I calculate I can finish this truck for $2005.  That had assumed the 89 would have junk fenders, so actually a bit less.  I'm in it for 700 for trucks and 150 for gas right now.  And 185 for rims and center caps
 

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my experience with aluminum wheels , dodge factory ones ,anyway  , leak air at bead slowly , sealed 3 times at a good tire shop friend as I watched , worse when not being used every day , then lug nuts will not turn , no how , no way ,( I.R. gun 175 psi ) heat required , then wheel stuck on hubs , grind hub hole so next time ... next time wheel stuck on hub again ....install lugs snug NOT tight , watch them next time "only" 3  outta 20 nuts no turn again .slatherd with neversieze  too ..stuck to RIM not stud ,installed ugly rusty steel wheels problem solved  just sayin ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Got a couple things done this weekend to merge the trucks:
1.  got the 93 running after adjusting bands and changing fluid on trans.  It seems to work.  4x4 works too so other than ball joints I'm OK.  This axle may be bent like the 92 though.....
2. Fixed cargo light wiring on 89 which was cut-easy solder deal and vacuumed out the cowl debris
3.  Checked rear axle on 93-looks good enough.  Checked rear axle on 88- not so good.  Very rusty and very low on gear oil and some sort of cord wrapped around near abs reluctor wheel.  Spider gears were trashed as well from driving with one 235-75-15 tire and one 205-75-15 (and the rust)
4.  Guy had some fun off-road before selling the 88. Must have hit a stump and cracked transfer case, crushed the muffler, crushed and pierced the driveshaft, bent the stone guard on the yoke and bent rear axle cover.  Water came pouring out of driveshaft when rotated
5. changed engine oil
6. changed out fuel pump with leftover from the 88- Used filler tube from Louisiana I got in 2005

Costs this weekend:
Gallon of 80w-90= $13.87
2 cans of brake cleaner- $12
5 quarts of quaker state from store closing- $9.97
Purolator filter from store closing 10 years ago lying around shop=?
Roll of blue shop towels= 2.97
RTV left over from putting engine in 92 last spring- "0"
Rubber stopper to replace plug in 88 rear axle cover= $1.19
Valvoline atf4+ 7 quarts and some leftover JD hygard low vis=46.48
5 gallons of gas-26.40

Grand total of $112.48 exactly for the weekend

add in ball joints, rockauto order, roof, shock plates
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Got the roof panel for the fix on the 89 cab.  Originally had cab lights- ironically I sold the cab lights off this very roof 2 years ago.  Been looking for 1st gen cab lights but everyone wants 150 plus.  So I like the look of the newer cab lights like on the 99-up.  Settled for a set on a 97 that looked like it fit- 80s and 90s f250 lights may be a direct fit, but they look so utilitarian.  Got the harness and 5 lights for 20 bucks- rewrapped the hanress and polished the lens and mocked them up.  Will have to weld one screw hole on each location, but the main harness hole is lined up good enough. Tested and its working.  May do the streamlined aftermakret LED lghts as well but need to weld all the screw holes to do that and then drill new ones.

also got some NOS ball joints for both sides at 30 each, a oxygen sensor, brake pads and brake cables.
Roof and very solid shock plates were 60 bucks
Cab lights were 20
brake cables, pads, brass freeze plug set, air filter and O2 was 113.65
Ball joints were 60 total

Total to date is 1401.13- for a cab full of parts
Biggest expenditures from here on out will be the frame, spring bushings, likely a windshield since I'm good at breaking them and then paint

Pics show size diff of 94-98 lights on the 92 template roof
6/15/19 edit- dropped 20 bucks on some 2005 cab lights, 30 on some oem cab lights/hanress, 15.95 on new gaskets, and 34.32 on 2 new lenses for above.  And last week dropped 185 on a LE tailgate, LE taillight and a aset of wheelwell moldings from a 92.  Add 285.27. up to 1686.28
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I need to change the name of this project to " Severely over budget and a real dumbass move"

I got the frame yesterday and got into it today.  Had some surprises for me.  Some deep pits near drivers sie spring perch.  Not sure why- I have 6 dodge truck frames and this is the only one with rot there.  I expected the thin spot near the gas tank crossmember and have a perfect panel line up for that-  off a California shortbed frame that the JY mangled.  This is a sore spot for me.....

Also got some usable rear springs and very solid spring hangers with the frame.  Total was 250.  JY guys think I'm crazy. 

Opinions on the shackle rust are welcome. 
Cost for frame was 250
 

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1/4th"plate/tight fitting nuts/bolts , a best ya can reasonably . OR fix the whole thing right , we know that's the options .
depends on what ya want from it , Betting the plate would last a good while . My favorite truck ? is one I don't try to make it "RIGHT" , '93 cracks everywhere , dents , floor wet when it pours , etc , new brakes bj's steering tires etc. the one I like to drive most .... ???
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks 82.  Measured the area this morning- measured thickness in good section is 0.225- almost 1/4 inch like factory said.  Pits were .070 or less on average.  Luckily they do not kiss each other inside to outside.  So thinnest part of frame channel there should be .150.  I may leave the spring shackle area alone- may brace using jungles plates. 

I can't think of any way other than building it back up with weld to reinforce the shackle itself though.
 

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yeah all ya kin do is remove it , use it as a HOLE template for a  plate larger than it and reinstall the sandwich , the lower rail , by tank , yeah some one to put a "matching" radius bend on a 6" wide 1/4" plate , weld to inside of rail . I'd be most concerned about the lower rail being bad , too much flex and it'll crack vertically ...  knowing what you have under ya structure wise , is the start ,thinking first like , ok this truck off road with a heavy or top heavy
( hay bales ? ) load ... ummmm . weld'er up lol . my old '82 had the same or worse side rails , I went hog wild , pulled the rear spring perches , plated , angle gusseted , made new crossmembers , added a set of helper leafs and perches , could load till tires/brakes were the issue (10 ply 10% over psi) ... it now looks like swiss cheese ... 20+ years later , kept clean , painted etc , driven year 'round , and plowed . sandwiched steel rots , same as doubble frame rails on large trucks ..
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So- discovered more rot and bailed out.  Took off the 92 specific brackets and the steering plate and box and pump and found a new frame.  its off a 88 but super clean.  No rust.

I'll have to deal with the 92 bed not fitting just right but big deal. 

Its off a 88 w100.  It measured square in all dimensions!.  Unlike the 92 rotbox which was off 1/2 inch in the back. 
Got the paint on it today- epoxy primer, then VHT chassis, then crc marine anti corrosion wax.  Looking bulletproff on the 88 after 4 years so I stuck with it. 
Cost for frame was 750! and gas but the truck i borrowed got 18 mpg towing, so 60 to rent trailer and bout 60 for as
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Got the rear axle cleaned up and painted and installed.  Kinda crusty to start with.  Upgraded to 9/16 u bolts

Also noted the holes for the cross member are different on the 88 frame compared to the 92.  2 sets on the 88 but niehter is for lined up for the 518.  Not sure how I'll get around this.  Already too many holes in this area.  For reference, the yellow paint marks are where the 518 would be.,  the forward most ones are for a 435 (forward is down and to the right in the pic).
 

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518 crossmember : yeah the one I did , after I was done I looked at it and I almost think that the plate that holds the t case could have been modified easier than drilling what I did . Can't remember exactly what I saw at this moment  ::)  but I have here '93 518 241, '87 727 208 (both factory)  and the morfadite 86 d/w nv4500/241  and am willing to measure photo etc for ya just let me know what ya want ......  where they had 3 bolts per side , 2 will do ? and someone had drilled the frame of the 86 rather than the flat ends of crossmember .. duh ... d to w was previous owner ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks 82, I havnt gotten that far yet. 
Got the front axle out of the donor, cleaned up, epoxy primer, paint and crc marine coating.  Also cleaned out gas tank
Now I can move it.  Gotta do some welding on a seized tank strap bolt and repair some sloppy torch work from the yard guy that took out the shocks with the torch. 
Hope to get engine and tranny in next week, but probably doing 2nd cut instead.

Note the wear pattern on the tires.  Hoping its ball joints but lining up the axle with the tie rod, axle is slightly bent just like the 92. be using the ingalls shims again- changing ball joints out too .  You can kinda see the axle kick up on the drivers side.

Costs- used the NOS ball joints as mentioned before and one had messed up threads so add in a Moog at 20 bucks.  Also got some mopar tie rod ends for like 50
 

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while the sun shines ................
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
2nd cut done last week.  Even with flat tire on baler- just switched from hay wagon and kept on truckin.

Gto hubs back together after replacing axle seals.  Must have been original balljoints- the upper adjuster was seized in the knuckle and bunged up the threads on the drivers side.  Got it back together but just barely.  new seals, u joints, amsoil grease and calipers/brake pads/lines. 

Not a big fan of the moog lower ball joint-  Took a awful lot of torque to get that thing in the there. 

Costs- lines were from June order.  Calipers were 26 bucks after core.  Did both sides, so 52 bucks.  Inline tubing brake line kit was 155 i think. Maybe 170
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Got the rad support in paint today.  From the 93.  Will be assembling this winter and unable to paint so trying to do things now.  Firewall on cab and inner fenders are next.  Got the steering box and support in. 
Had to buy a new spindle and bearings for the drivers side on this as the wheel seal surface had corroded and pitted, water had entered the bearings and everything was failing.  tried a GXL spindle but timken bearings would not go on.  Ordered a new spicer and WALA. Perfect
Also changed the axle seals on the front of the 88.  I hate that job so much.  I've now done it on all 4 trucks

Costs- spindle was 188, bearings were like 36, and seals were 15.  needed tube of amsoil mp grease at 10 or so
 

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jerseybud said:
Also changed the axle seals on the front of the 88. I hate that job so much. I've now done it on all 4 trucks
It is a tough job. I've only done it once. Since I've only have my one truck... and that's enough. ;D
Nice work!
 
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