[SansDodge75]

I have a 94 1500 2wd with a 5.9 magnum 86k on the clock. A couple of weeks ago i started having some problems with it.

1. Idle is really ruff and seems like it might be missing
Checked plugs, cap, rotor, wires, all seem good.

2. Has become sluggish going uphill in or out of overdrive.
Fluid level is good and looks clean.

3. A couple of times when stopping to park it, the oil light flickers but gage read 40 psi.
Oil level is good about 500m away from next changeout.

I get no codes using the key check method, has plenty of power on straight flat streches, with the mileage am unsure of the maintenence history. Gas mileage is about 13-15 in town and 18-20 on the freeway.

Am planing on doing a tranny fluid change plus fuel filter change out with my tax return, but was wondering if you guys might have some other ideas on what to look at.



Mutt

 

[Slanted_Mind]

Idles rough and poor performance are classic signs of an engine that (1) has seen better days or (2) is in dire need of a tune-up. Unless you know for sure the age of the cap, rotor, and wires, it is probably time to change them. Have you checked the spark plugs? What color are the electrodes? Are the electrodes worn? It is likely time to replace these as well.

What condition is the exhaust in? The 94+ Rams are notorious up here for needing new catalytic converters at around 60-70k miles. Yours is likely the original and in need of replacement ($$$--dealer only item)

I would have the exhaust system checked out, and do a full tune up (plugs, wires, cap & rotor, fuel & air filters) Also make sure to check the condition of the battery (have it load tested--free at most parts stores/service stations) and the battery terminals. It may also be time to have your fuel injectors cleaned, especially if you buy the cheapest gas you can find most of the time.

My .02

-SM

 

[CLRracer]

also check ur O2 sensors.

Duane

 

[chrysler300le]

I also have a 94 1500 with a 5.9. Now with 194,000 miles on it. The Owners manual says to change the wires every 60K. The Mopar wires suck bad. My original coil wire burned itself in half at 90K. My truck is on its 4th fuel pump. Its best to just change the filter with the pump cause the filter is inside the tank. The original pump was changed before 60K when i bought the truck. Then i've changed it twice since then. Both times the truck would shudder when in overdrive and the first pump i changed wouldn't let me bet below half a tank before the truck would shudder so bad it wasn't drivable. Second pump i changed did the same thing but only under 1/4 tank.

As for the oil pressure thing. I hydrolocked my original engine at ram jam with 184K, i then bought a used junk yard engine. It wouldn't hold pressure at idle. Sometimes that light would come on with 0 oil pressure and sometimes it wouldn't. I would just change out your sensor first cause i have seen them go bad. Real pain to get to it and requires a special tool while in the truck. Snap On part number S6152

 

[SansDodge75]

Well, cap, rotor, wires, plugs were all chaged by me about 20k ago as well as the o2 sensor and that was about 15k ago.

I'm kinda leery on the fuel pump, but everything I'm getting so far it pointing me in that direction. I would imagine its pretty straight forward, but how exspensive is the pump and should I bite the bullet ang go with the dealership on it?

Would running it thru a diagnostic do any good if I'm not pulling any codes with the key method?

Mutt

 

[BrianT]

WEll u cna have the pressure checked @ the regulator there should be a valve to hook a diagnostic too lto it . low pressure would sure mean the pump is going dead .

 

[Ramtuff]

What condition is the exhaust in? The 94+ Rams are notorious up here for needing new catalytic converters at around 60-70k miles. Yours is likely the original and in need of replacement ($$$--dealer only item)

The cats are no longer dealer only items, and are around $70-80 on e-bay.

 

[Ramtuff]

WEll u cna have the pressure checked @ the regulator there should be a valve to hook a diagnostic too lto it . low pressure would sure mean the pump is going dead .

There's a port for a pressure gauge on the fuel rail (driver's side). You could probably rent a gauge from autozone for a few bucks.

 

[whlnwgn]

If it is the pump, they aren't all that bad to change, worst part is putting the tank back in. The feul PSI test should tell you every thing you need to know about it.
Since it's a '94, (no OBDII) I'd think you could just put an after market cat on it, or remove it completely if you live in a state w/ out emmissions testing.
-Steve C.

 

[chrysler300le]

I paid 180 bucks for the last pump which was last summer

 

[Chump]

Do a complete tune up and don't use cheap parts..Magnums do not like them. Use the correct plugs also. The original wires do suck and also there is a Service Bulletin on proper wire routing and some others you might want to look at under the "Performance" Section. http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994-index.htm If you need a new fuel pump asm I would get a Carter or one from the dealer as most of the other brands like Master are trash. The cheapest dealer pump is at www.tenaflyjeepmoparparts.com with 30% off, their web price is $218 plus shipping.

 

[SansDodge75]

Well I priced some stuff from a ma mopar dealer.

Fuel pump $224.00
Cat $664.00
IAC Motor $68.00

This stuff must be made of gold.

Will keep y'all updated.

Mutt

 

[Ramtuff]

Well I priced some stuff from a ma mopar dealer.

Fuel pump $224.00
Cat $664.00
IAC Motor $68.00

This stuff must be made of gold.

Will keep y'all updated.

Mutt

OMG!!! Over $600 for a cat?? That's nuts. If you do need a cat, check e-bay ($75). Either that or just gut the one on your truck if you don't have emissions testing. .
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33629&item=2464296498

The easiest, cheapest thing though is to check fuel pressure first. You can buy a gauge for around $10 or rent one from Autozone. If you do need a fuel pump, my personal opinion is to go with the dealer item. I've seen nothing but bad experiences from using aftermarket pumps, and you'll most likely be replacing it again soon.

Just my .02. Good luck.

 

[chrysler300le]

The cats come with the pipe from the manifolds all the way back to the muffler too. thats why its so much. Its all one piece. I tried Dynomax super converter that was a 2 in and single out just like the original converter and lost a little power. The factory converter outflows the aftermarket believe it or not. Its just bigger diam and has more frontal area. Mine went bad and i knocked the ceramic out and gained no power or gas mileage then how it ran before the converter went bad. Later i replaced it with the Dynomax cause my exhaust was too loud.

Both pumps that I used and replaced were Carters. Thats not a bad price for the IAC motor considering i've paid 38 for one that makes my truck idle up and down all the time and 58 for another brand that wasn't too bad.

 

[Ramtuff]

Thanks for the info on the cat. That's surprising how the factory unit outflows the aftermarket ones. I just had to gut my cat because it clogged up on me (gained just a little bit of power and fuel mileage has stayed the same compared to before the cat went bad), but there's no way I'm forking out that kind of cash for one.

 

[Chump]

If this is the exhaust setup you have, it looks like Walker has a replacement cat and pipe. Also try Maremont/Arvin. Looks like you might be able to special order the Arvin pipe 29588 through Autozone online?
Maremont/Arvin

Walker

 

[San-Man]

I had a '95 1500 w/ 5.9 and the cat had plugged...I ordered a replacement from Summit, came in about 2 days, no box, pipes attached, worked great...As for your other problem, it could be the intake valley pan gasket being messed up which would suck oil into the intake...Shine a light down your throttle body opening and see if you see any puddles of engine oil...The oil burning would then mess up your cat...Do you notice any black smoke under hard acceleration?

 

[chrysler300le]

Chump are those generic pictures, because my 94 has a 2 inlet converter. The difference may be in that my truck is 4wd

 

[Chump]

Chump are those generic pictures, because my 94 has a 2 inlet converter. The difference may be in that my truck is 4wd

Beastmaster said he had a 2 wheel drive