i love that stuff too , when i re did my cj7 , i know it aint a dodge , but anyways i drag it over rocks and get it hung up and it still didnt peel it all off. i also used in on my cuda floors trunk, inside doors and the only problem i found with it is to wear gloves so u dont get it on ur hands that stuff is tough to clean off
Ok, I have a question for everyone. I've never used the stuff, and have just heard of it not too long ago. I plan on yanking the engine out of my RC and swapping it, but I want to detail the engine compartment while it's out, and maybe hit the axles and skid plates too. What kind of prep work are we talking about here? does everything have to be bare metal? Is there a primer I have to apply before hand? From what I understand I can apply this with a brush, but how does it look when applied this way? Do the brush lines show? If anyone can "hold my hand" and explain how to properly use this stuff and get good results, I would greatly appreciate it. If ya got pictures, that'd help even more. Thanks in advance guys!
I rolled mine on a bumper that I made, and used a brush for the spots that the roller couldn't get to, and I can't see any brush marks. As far as prep, I washed it down at a car wash let It dry real well, removed any loose rust, and painted away. It seems good, but It hasn't been on for long.
This stuff is great! It stops rust! In order to paint over it you must use this stuff called ti-coat (think thats the name) It should be were ever you get your POR-15 from. WARNING: Do Not weld on or by it for about 24 hours or it will catch on fire! My autobody instructor swears by this stuff and Ive seen this stuff in action enough to know that it works! As far as prep work for rust all you need to do is wire brush the loose rust off and then "paint" away! Great Product! Bob if you need any more help in using this stuff just let me know, Ill be glad to help!
i swear by the stuff, i've used a number of their products and have good results on a varierty of automotime surfaces.
but like anything else the better the prep the better the result, with POR-15 you can paint directly over a rusted surface and "emcapculate" the rust starving it from oxygen. the instructions are pretty straight foward, remove the flaky, loose material, wash the surface down with either their prep products marine clean or other (i swear by castrol supper clean) and paint. the product is a medium thickness and clings pretty well, it will self level wich removes the brush or roller marks. it can be sprayed but requires thining, 10 percent i belive with their thinner. POR-15 is not UV stable and therefore requires a protective topcote if it will be exposed to sunlight, this can be done easily with spray bombs after it has dried to the touch but within 12 hour if i remeber correctly.
i've coated the following
the bottom of my new cab, the inside flour is next
the wheel wells and back frame of my 78 rc
the new spring packs for the 78
power stearing pumps and other engine components
the spring steel gas tank straps on the 78
the inside of my new replacement fenders for my 92
the list goes on
i haven't seen any cracks or peeling, you don't need to but i prefer to take most things down to bare metal
...not to be a wet blanket, but POR is only 'great' when you have no way to eliminate or blast off the rust. Using POR to top coat freshly blasted metal is just a really expensive paint job. But...a roof seam, inside something you can't blast, freshly rusted metal - POR is perfect. Otherwise, it's just 'paint'. And really...paint stops rust as well as POR does, especially if it's exposed to UV. I do not see the benefit from using POR vs regular primer and paint (especially oil-based paint) when non-rusted metal is involved.
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