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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys, I’m pulling my hair out right now!  I have wired this new electronic distributor just as the directions stated.  One side of the ballast has 12 volts in the run position and the blue with yellow chaser off the control module.  The other has 12 volts in the start position and positive coil wire.  Off the control module the black with the yellow chaser goes to the negative side of the coil.  The two with the connector go to the distributor.  The green wire is not used. 

I’ve got no spark to the spark plugs and when I check the 12 volt in start it drops to 3.5 while cranking.  I tied right into the starter exciter wire.  I’m working by myself and I thought that would be the easiest.  I also tried the dad yellow wire off the starter relay with the same issue.

Any help would surely be appreciated.

TIA
 

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where did you check the 12 during crank ? its suppose to by pass the resistor during crank , giving 12 to coil , then on run go thru resistor giving ,  eh about 7 to coil NEVER 3.5 ... thats too low for system to fire at all , check battery , connections etc . does it crank over at normal speed ? bad connection at bullet connector + side of battery ? could be that its NOT getting power from starter relay during crank , so the lower voltage while cranking is still passing thru resistor making it even lower .... check connections on starter relay ( fenderwell) ? 
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Im checking it at the ballast resistor.  I ran a jumper straight to the battery and still have no spark.  I can hear the module click inside it.  I’m starting to suspect the coil.  I didn’t get much opportunity to mess with it today but maybe tomorrow. 

The reason I suspect the coil is when I pulled the high voltage wire a lot of oil cams out.  I tightened the stud inside and it quit leaking.  It ran albeit crappy with the Lean Burn System on it and can’t figure the coil going that way but I’m at my wits end. 

I was reading the instructions for replacing the Lean Burn System and as far as I can make out, the wiring is still the same.  Does that sound right?
 

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For lean burn replacement I used a 80s Chevy ignition module. 96 Chevy ignition module heat sink. Heat sink compound. A vacuum and mechanical advance distributor.  I used a relay not shown to create switched power
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I’ve already bought the Mopar electronic distributor kit from Summit.  I can’t justify buying another set up.  Besides, I just don’t have that money.  I have to make this work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I’m working on the 1984 Ramcharger, 318 with Electronic Fuel Control System computer that I removed.  I also installed an Edlebrock Performer intake and Holley 600 carburetor.

I bought the Mopar electronic distributor kit with orange module from Summit Racing.
 

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Your coil is oil bathed internally. If it leaks I would replace it with a coil from the same era you got the other parts from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks, the diagram in that article is the same one I used to wire mine.  I’ll get a coil and report back.
 

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leaking oil coil means its  bad , but 3.5 while cranking will never fire your truck . the starter relay on the fenderwell is suppose to put 12 volts to the COIL side of the resistor while your cranking , after it starts , you let off key , key sends 12 volts to the other side of resistor , and a lower voltage goes to coil .....
 

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Since your truck had a lean burn system originally, the wiring harness may not have the same IGN-1 and IGN-2 circuits that the older electronic ignition systems did.  I do know that the lean-burn coils were different than the older electronic ignition coils. 

You need to find a factory wiring diagram for your truck and trace the ignition circuits to see if they will match up with the wiring needed by the older electronic ignition system.
 

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I just had a no spark issue with my 75 Powerwagon. After checking rechecking and pulling my hair out it was the ECU. Double heck the wires going to the Distributor to see if they are getting voltage turned out mine went bad and they also had a 4 pin instead of a 5 pin mine had the dual ballast resistor. Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Okay fellas, Ramcharger is running!  I’m somewhat confused as to why though.  I put a new coil on it but still nothing!  I got frustrated and cut the 12 in the start position then got side tracked.  I came back to it a while later and hit the key and it fired right up!  No 12 volt start position wire.  But, it runs!
 

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Hey, Thats Great!  The Start Wire that you disconnected could be the culprit, it could be shorting to ground wit the key in the start position, or back feeding something thta's sucking the voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Below is exactly how I wired it and it would not start. One I cut the 12 volt in the start position out of frustration it started and has Run perfect.



This is how it is wired now:

 

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yes , it may run that way if your key provide power to the resistor WHEN you have it in the "crank" spot , some don't have power from the run when your in crank .  BUT what the way you have it will do is make it hard starting when its cold out or the engine is a little flooded or anything , because your coil ONLY ever gets lower voltage thru the resistor , not 12v during crank like it should . IF that brown wire is a 10 or 8 gauge its the wrong brown wire , that goes direct to the stater solenoid . there is 1 14 gauge small wire on the starter relay ( on fenderwell) that gets power ONLY when your cranking , that is suppose to go to coil side of resistor . It is a 14 gauge pink wire on the relay
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I tried three different wires that registered 12 volts in the start position and it would not start.  I’ll look at it again but man this is frustrating!  There’s nearly a foot of snow on the ground from just today so I’m done with it for now but I did go out and start it.  It fired right up.  ???
 
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