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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I picked up a '78 TrailDuster for F/R axles & Steering. It was some guys hunt camp truck and some raccoons got in (corn stored inside) and tore up the interior. 3 big bites out of a nice tight tuffwheel - DOH!!! I'm new to mopar 4wd stuff (got old cars & A-bodys) and want to know what I should strip off before it goes to the JY. Is the tuff wheel big with you guys like it is with the car guys. Is the tuff wheel mounting can the same as for a car or is it different for the 4WDers? It has a factory rollbar, good grille & most britework is good. Body is gone, rear door hinges broken out of roof. Tailgate trim is OK but tailgate is rusted out.

Please learn me as to what I should sell here (as opposed to Ebay) & what I should junk.
 

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It could probably be a good toy for someone so you might just sell it as whole. Don't sound like the body or interior is worth that much. So that leaves the drivetrain and half ton drivetrain is dirt cheap because everyone upgrades to 3/4 or 1 ton stuff leaving a high supply of half ton axles. Probably better off selling it for about 500 if it runs.

Tuff wheels aren't that big of a deal outside of the muscle car world. I have two Dodge Miradas with them. They are just a sportier feeling steering wheel and an option on about every Dodge product.
 

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The Tuff wheel would be a good thing to hang onto. I know a guy that rebuilds them.

I have a nice Warlock steering wheel on my 76 RC. Sure is an inprovement over the crappy looking stock steering wheel.

Sounds like you can part it out yourself if you have the time and space, or just sell the whole thing as chysler300le said.

Mac
 

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It's the removable top... nice piece to hang onto in addition to the brightwork.
A fair number of folks will want that roll bar.
What engine, trans and transfer case ?

Since the body is dead, have you seen the pictures of the cagedodge?

And if no one else has said so, Welcome to RCC ! A lot of these truck crazies are also MOPAR Car crazies.

And, go visit the Florida Chapter board to find out who is near to you.
 

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The 77/78 grill is very hard to find in good shape as it was only used for two years and only on the Trail Duster. Emblems, trim,console ,dash cluster & bezel,rollbar,skidplates,radio, and seats are worth saving if okay shape. Was it a big-block?

On the tuff wheel adapter, I have heard the car A/B adapter can has different spline pattern. I think it was the cars have a blind spline allowing the can to only go one way and the trucks do not.

Send me an IM if you want to part with the tuff adapter can.
 

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do you have pics of the grille????? if you do and its in good shape i MIGHT be interested in purchasing it.....thanx
 

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Is the hardtop solid? Is is rusted through or flaking away anywhere? I might be interested in buying it if it's in better shape than mine. If you have some pics of it, that would be great. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the responses - kinda what I thought. I'm swapping a 2 WD '66 Dodge TownWagon into a 4WD and only need the F/R alxes & steering pieces. It is 318/727/NP??? now . Supposed to run well (i'll see about that later.) I don't want the 318/727/NP???. I've got a 400-RV cam, 727 & Dana 300 to go in it. I think the skid plate will probably stay. I'm setting the Townie as a torqey tow vehicle. The 4WD will be nice, but not going rock rawling with it. The Hardtop is busted by the back hinges. I'll try to get some pics of things and post them in the classifieds. Glass is OK,

Thanks again for ant answers.
49 T&C
 

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joe swinehart said:
uh um, is there any reason you intend to use a dana300?
because they are good tcases with a lower low range than the 203? but i think i see where your going. the front axle that you will get from that 78 is a full time axle, and if your using it with a part time tcase you wouldnt be bad off switching it to a part time setup with the outters from a non full time axle. but then you will need a matching rear axle because of the 5x5.5 bolt pattern that the part time axles used. the other alternative is the kit from mile marker to add lockout hubs to the full time axle, but then you still have the weaker bearing setup.

Duane
 

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just wondering because im not too familiar with it. would it even bolt up to a 727?

i think id kept the 203 for the above mentioned reasons plus if i allready have it and its bolted to a 727, its all good.
im not really a full time kinda guy but he says he wants 4x4 but no intention of rock crawling or such.

im guessing its more for rain/snow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Now you helping me !!! I got the Dana 300 because it is bolted to a big block 727 loadflite and picked it up for $50. I wanted the BB grunt. I don't know anything about the fulltime/parttime axles. I can keep the 727 & NP transfer case that's in the TrailDuster now and bolt up a 360 with an RV cam. (would be easier all around). NOW you guys are helping me make better decisions. I understood I wanted F/R axles from the same vehicle to get the same gears, but still unclear on the fulltime/parttime part. I thought that when I used the Dana, it would eliminate tha parttime stuff.

Please enlighten me. Thanks again for your time and effort.
49 T&C
 

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The Dana will allow it to be parttime but with the front axle everything still turns including the driveshaft because there is nothing on the axle end to disconnect it. Thats why they were suggesting going with lock out hubs but you have to get everything from knuckles out on a non fulltime truck. That then changes your bolt pattern on front and doesnt' match the rear. Mile Marker has a kit to change the full time trucks to part time and adds lock out hubs on the front. This would keep the same bolt pattern, but the wheel bearing design on the full time trucks isnt' the best. They will hold up if they are greased alot (they have a grease fitting).
 

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I grease mine about once a year, and am running 39's...no wheel bearing problems since i went to the part time conversion....so far.
 

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i HAVE the full time setup in my truck. i run the dana 44 front and a 60 rear. if you want to keep the full time setup take the Tcase from the TD. if you want to spend the extra cash and convert to part time you can do that also. but since you already have the axles and tcase sittin there i'd snag the whole setup and use it istead of spending the extra and converting it. the NP203 is a good strong case as far as i can tell and it is the full time case. i have had no dealings with the 300 but i personally like the 203 and full time 4wd. i dnot have to get out to lock up hubs or anything so for me it would be easier to just take the 203 and put it in place of the 300, keep the TDs axles the way they are and use them. plus how many 66 town wagons do you see with full time 4wd???? prolly not many ;D ... thats my 2 cents anyways
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
With you guys' help & info I changed my plans for the Townie. Sharing info is what its all about., Thanks again. I'll probably keep the TD driveline and use it as/is under the townie. The TD is a 360 with 3.21 axles. OK by me for a tow rig. I'll just freshen up the motor, add an RV cam. Previous owner swapped for a Holley 4bbl. I'll look for some headers and go the easy route rather than the BB route.

Thanks again,
49 T&C
 

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Before you put the tcase in the townie...make sur eyou go into it far enough to make sure the chainhasn't strecthed. it'ds be much easier to swap the chain out now than after it is under the car.
 
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