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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
what is involved in doing this myself, or can i?? teh seal popped about 3 weeks after i got the truck and i haven't had the $$ to get a new one installed. any one know the part # and how hard it is to install????

also when i was creapin around under the TANK i noticed this yellow wire with a black tracer comming from somewhere over the tranny. its got a ring connector ont eh end and i have no clue wehre it goes or what it is doing down around my tcase shifter linkage. any ideas on that one???
 

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what year truck is it ?? The wire may be for your 4wd engaged light. That's the same colors as mine if if I remember right.

if yer talking about the axle seal, I think the diff carrier has to come out to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
it my 77 PW. i have this funky lookin switch that i THINK runs the light for the loc light in the dash but i have never seen a light come on. as for the seal its the pinion seal not the axle seal. so thats why i dont know what i need or have to do to fix it. if all else fails it will end up goin to randys ring and pinion to be fully gone through
 

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u can with a torqu wrench. gauge style.

gotta measure torque required to break loose pinion nut. then break it loose pull yoke rpelace seal put it back on. then it must be tightened a specific amount more than it was before. for example if u read 45ft/lbs and specs say 2lbs more. then new setting would be 47ft lbs.

not sure on dana 44, but thats the way ive learned for other axles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok cool thanx. also what parts will i need besides the seal???? and a big ass socket????
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thats it??? just the seal, crush sleave, big ass socket and a torque wrench??? also should i extend my vent lines up into the engine compartment??? what size lines should i use and how should i keep crap out of them??
 

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take the caps off the vents..then go to the hardware store and find a fitting with the same thread pitch size and etc..then get some clear plastic tubing and get a VW type fuel filter to put on the end
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
VW type fuel filter???? the ones i am used to are for fuel injected ones and thats not gonna work. yes i am stupid when it comes to certain things. thats why i need to go bacak to school.....
 

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Hey Mark, when you do this job, let me know so I can come down and help you out. I may need to do this with mine as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
no problem. i just hope my front diff isn't SCREWED! we'll do both of em at the same time!
 

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No, the old style plastic ones you can see into. I think that what he is talking about.
 
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The dana 44 does not use a crush sleave. This is a simple task. Remove front ujoint from the yoke.
Remove the pinion nut.
remove the seal
Replace the seal
put the yoke back on
tourque the pinion nut down until you have 14-19 inch pounds of preload on the pinion bearing.

pinion pre load is the amount of torque it takes to turn pinion gear.

I would recomed a bar type torque wrench. It will be easier to read then a clicker type for this application.
 

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ya the old ones for the air cooled motors..just tell the part store you need a fram fuel filter for a air cooled vdub motor
 

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ya the seal isnt hard to do u just do what gmule said but becarefull when putting the new seal on i was tapping mine on and it got bent and i had to buy a new one. other that being carefull it aint hard at all, front and rear are the exact same
 
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I used a deep socket socket the diamater of the seal when I did mine. The seal should not need any sealer on it. Just put wipe of gear lube on the rubber part of the seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
ok cool thanx
 

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trying to find a deep well socket that size may be a bit of a PIA. i always reccomend my handy dandy favoritest of all time seal installing tool.

namely a piece of pvc pipe the same size as the seal and about 1 foot long, usually works great and $1.50 for a piece of pvc is alot better than $25-50 for a socket that size

eric
 
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