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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good morning everyone. I am having some interesting issue with my 87' Ramcharger, 360, 4bbl.c I have been experiencing a complete shut down (like turning key off) when truck is put into gear.

Here is the background and supporting info.

Current Situation:
  • Idle - Truck runs around 750/800 RPMs at idle with about 18-19 PSI for vacuum. Does drop to 15 right when putting into gear if I can keep it running.
  • Replaced a Holly 2TBI aftermarket and went back to carbureted with new Edelbrock AVS 4bbl.
    • Using mechanical fuel pump with about 5.5 - 6 psi.
  • Timing is advanced to roughly 15 BTC, however typically run it at 8-10 BTC.
  • Vehicle idles great. Will shut down right when I put it into gear. It does not sputter, just like turning off the key.
    • If I set the idle to about 1250/1300 or feather the pedal I can get it to go into gear without stalling. However after driving around town say 15-25 miles the engine will die when coming to a stop or pulling into a parking spot.
    • At about 950/1200 RPMs I can get it into gear but have to be feathering the pedal and it will not idle in gear.
  • Truck used to start right back up after dying Now it try's to crank and sounds like the battery is dead. Takes a few attempts to turnover.
    • Battery is new. Has been recharged. No bad cells, holds 12.6 volts (non surface) before starting to crank.
    • The other day it wouldn't even try to start, just a click. Tried hotwiring, nothing would work..... randomly I went to turn the key again and it started right up..
Possible Solutions:
  • Vacuum Leak -
    • Replaced all vacuum lines and fittings. Worth doing after 34 years....
    • Plugged all manifold and ported ports for testing purposes. Not difference.
    • Starter Fluid -
      • Identified small leak around manifold. Fixed by refighting bolts.
      • Vacuum Advanced diaphragm appears to have small leak... but problem exists when this is plugged off.
  • Ignition -
    • new coil, new plugs, new wires. New Battery
    • Was having issues with voltage regulator. Replaced and fixed that problem.
    • New ISC (ignition Control Module) and ballast resistor.
Tried to put in as much details as possible. Was having on going troubles with the aftermarket projection system. It was used and the ECU on it seems to have electrical issues. I rather have the reliability of carburetor.

I keep hearing advice on the vacuum leak from others but I just don't know where else a vacuum leak can be coming from and large enough to kill the engine. I could understand if I had low vacuum at idle with a stock cam but I don't think I am doing to bad at 18-19.

Look forward to anyone's assistance with issue. Greatly appreciated. Thanks,
 

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grounds

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the response. I will do the voltage check again just to insure. All grounds on the body/chassis/frame/engine have been replace with the new battery just a few weeks ago.
 

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the two main grounds [ running wise] are the one at the RAD support and the one that runs from the back of the right cylinder head to the fire wall
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So finally got a chance to recheck all the grounds today. Everything checked out. All voltage tests passed and I did replace the ground wire that was feeding the coil cause it was in pretty rough shape. No change unfortunately.

A little more back ground info. The only way I can keep the truck running in gear is cranking up the idle speed off the carb putting the RPMs at about 1400 to 1500 in park. Once it goes into gear it drops to about 800-900 rpms.
Runs around town great without stalling at that RPM…. However I know it’s not right as this should be around 750 in park to my knowledge.

Any additional thoughts? Thanks
 

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vacume leak ? check with a vacume gauge
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the reply. I have done extensive time on the vaccum leak theory. I want it to be that but just can’t seem to find it. I am about 19 in park and drop to 15 in gear. I have found small leaks that have been repaired. Used starting fluid and a smoke machine to locate these leaks. Right now both those methods are not showing any leaks. I can put my hand over the choke as well and the engine kills itself.
 

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whats the SPEC's on your engine combo, give us every detail
 

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Idle screw adj/mixture? Carb jetting? Just a shot in the dark.
 

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your intake Carb gasket is wrong , l,ll put money on it / the edelbrock intake and carb take a very specific gasket , if you dont use the right gasket it causes intake vacuum leaks
 

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with a stock 360 you should be pulling OVER 22 PSI of vacuum at idle
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No kidding…. I wonder if it’s the after market adapter. The AVS2 gasket itself will work on the manifold supposedly because I called edlebrock just to make sure.

I will mount the carb directly to the manifold and see what happens and go from there.

Thanks for the help.
 

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1975 W100 Power Wagon Adventurer Sport 318 727 NP203 3.55
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Has the balancer Spun? rubber between inside and out causes trouble occasionally. To advanced can cause trouble going into gear
 

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That carb should be close jetting wise on a 360. But always wonder about crap in the bowls from the build process, crap in the gas tank, old gas, or just plain rich or lean.

What kind of edelbrock single plane? like a victor? that makes a difference bc some are spread bore some are square bore. Thats what dodgeboys is getting at.

No backfiring? No eye watering idle fumes? no fuel fouled plugs or so lean they have flecks of aluminum in the insulator?
Gotta admit timing would also be high on my list, like a skipped tooth on the chain or worn dizzy bushing or slipped balancer
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
That carb should be close jetting wise on a 360. But always wonder about crap in the bowls from the build process, crap in the gas tank, old gas, or just plain rich or lean.

What kind of edelbrock single plane? like a victor? that makes a difference bc some are spread bore some are square bore. Thats what dodgeboys is getting at.

No backfiring? No eye watering idle fumes? no fuel fouled plugs or so lean they have flecks of aluminum in the insulator?
Gotta admit timing would also be high on my list, like a skipped tooth on the chain or worn dizzy bushing or slipped balancer
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for chiming in Jerseybud. It’s a single plane Torker II 340 - Square bore. The adapter and all gaskets are square bore.
  • No misfiring
  • Does have really bad “eye water exhaust”
  • Still has Cats on it as well that maybe clogged. Everyone and then I get a real bad rotten egg smell. Need to just cut them off.
  • No fouled plugs. All brand new.
  • Timining typicall sits at 10-11 BTC. I did adjust it to about 16 just to see if that would help with anything but it didn’t.
  • Air fuel mixture needs to be adjusted better I think. But don’t think that will give me the over all vaccum or load balance I need to not have it due when going into gear.
 

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the idle air fuel mixture has EVERYTHING to do with it idling in gear , if the jets are set to Lean then you would hafta raise the idle to get it to idle in gear [ sound familiar ]

timing should be set at 12 to 14

have you pinched off the brake booster vacuum to rule out a bad booster
 
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