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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
...so if I had a set of black powdercoated wheels and I wanted to paint them a different color, is there something like Acetone or a really aggressive cleaner - something I'd need to use gloves with (maybe paint thinner but not sure that's aggressive enough) that I could just 'apply' to the powdercoated wheels that after it dried and wiped off would give the new color something decent to stick to?  I'm not spending the coin to have the wheels blasted - I'm looking for some sort of MEBS (Methyl Ethyl Bad Shit) in a can that I can apply that'll cut the gloss off of the wheels and give the new color a good bite on the wheels.  Thoughts? 
 

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I have the eastwood painting prep. Good product but it's not aggressive at all. I use it to clean before I paint but nothing further than that. Eastwood might have something else that would though.
 

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Maybe something like this. I have a can, but never used it yet. I believe several companies make a similar product.



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/shw-cp199?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-dupli-color&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5-TXBRCHARIsANLixNzaZGqZ_xpnhCHuuago7qVX1EmYxD9r_ncC6Vtqcqb7mYQmgAo2GUEaAsOtEALw_wcB



Rust-Oleum Adhesion Promoter is a fast drying, clear primer that helps paints adhere to polyolefin surfaces such as automotive plastics, vinyl, trim, bumpers, fiberglass and more. Bonds topcoats to vinyl, plastic, fiberglass and more. Adhesion Promoter features an advanced spray system that allows you to spray at any angle.

California residents: see Proposition 65 information

A top coat must be applied within 10 minutes of the final coat of adhesion promoter
Ideal for interior/exterior use
Dries to touch in 10 minutes
11 oz. can provides coverage for up to 5 to 10 sq. ft.
Any-angle spray with comfort tip
 

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Sounds to me like you are trying to cheat!  ;D
 

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Aircraft paint remover?
Think there will still be prep after though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Elwenil said:
Sounds to me like you are trying to cheat! ;D
correct - willfully cheating maliciously ;D .

Hadn't seen those adhesion promoters - that's a great idea! I just e-mailed Duplicolor asking them about my evil plan - I'll post back with what they say.

It isn't that I want to remove the paint - more like I want to prep it for a re-paint without sanding...'cause yah I'm lazy :p

Muchas grassyass fellers! ;D
 

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Eh, sanding rims isn't bad unless they are real intricate looking.  If you are just wanting to rough them up a little, it shouldn't take more than a few minutes a rim.  The last set I did needed more of a wire brush job since the paint was mostly flaking off, but what paint was left I roughed up pretty quick with a couple of those little sanding sponges.  Those work pretty well since they aren't a hard block and will conform to odd shapes pretty well.  A slight squeeze would round them out to go around the rim real quick and then the sides did a good job with the centers.  This was a typical set of spoked wagon wheels though.  Just my .02
 

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I cheat in a number of ways, however it's gonna take a special kind of cheater for this one. Powder coating is a very durable form of painting and it takes extra effort to remove. You could scuff up the paint with a wire brush or a Dremel with a small sanding disc. I've even been known to strip paint using brake fluid! (The stuff works great, but you'll have to remove any leftover residue or the new paint won't stick)

You can also cheat, depending on the paint you use. I've been looking into Raptor Liner to paint over my big fat chrome winch bumper on the rear of my truck. The stuff is said to stick to any surface, so if it can stick to chrome it should stick to powder coat.

Ed
 

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I have used the adhesion promoter (Rustoleum pictured above) to paint plastic trim on my Duster with good results. Recently I was helping my daughter with a school project where she made a boat out of a plastic pop bottle. Of course it needed to be fancy so we hit it with the adhesion promoter, then auto touch up paint from a spray can. I will say it is tough enough not to chip off, at least not after a couple weeks of her playing with it. If it will stick to that shiny plastic bottle, it would likely stick to powder coat too. Try a spot and let us know how it works!
Cley
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks Clay -  yah I might just get a can of it and try it out.  I called Dupli-Color and they basically said that the adhesion promoter is more of a 'glue' for topcoat and not an etching product, but that they do have an etching primer (DAP1690) I could try.

I suppose I could get a handful of an aggressive steel wool and knock down the shiny enamel, use the etching primer, then top coat.  Might try that...
 

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Scotch bright pads work (good branded & not the cheap knock offs).

Best to use muriatic acid on chrome bumpers to remove the shiny chrome.  It leaves the base nickel plate surface that primer sticks to very well.
 

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  In the old days we used tri sodium phosphate.  It cleaned good and left the old paint dull. We can't get it anymore. Now it TPS substitute that doesn't work.
 

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I use to do powder coating for a job for a while. Forget exactly what type of acid we use. It also made it where it was adgetated to make sure that the acid would work. Because it’s bound on a melicular level by bonding with ions your best option would be to sand blast it with a fine sand so it doesn’t leave dimples.
 

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I've heard good things about easy off oven cleaner for trashing paint.  Might give you a paintable surface on powdercoat.  Acetone is also pretty darn good at softening most coatings.
 
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