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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all

It seems this project is cursed with bad luck and problems.

I was taking my 84 R/c out for a test run and it started overheating after 3 miles. I limped it home and let it cool down a little. Just sitting it the drivewas at idle it takes about 8 minutes for it to get pretty damn hot.

There are no leaks that I can see. With the cap of and watching as it heats up you can see that the thermostat is opening and there is good circulation.

This is a fresh rebuilt so it shouldn't need to be flushed right??

The water pump doesn't have any play in it and spins without resistance before I put it on.
What about the fan clutch? it spins with resistance with the motor off, and seems to be blowing strong.

Got some more ideas or ways to test stuff out.

thanks
 

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Well also check and make sure that exchanger on the heater core lines is opening up sometimes they will tick shut or a bad heater core possibly..... also have you flused out the rad or better yet have it rodded and cleaned out by a rad shop or toss it and get an aluminum replacement off e- bay for cheap ////
 

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well, the heater core may be plugged, but it will have no effect on overheating...just won't give you heat.

Make sure the radiator is clean, and make sure you have a fan shroud on it.

You may have leaves and junk blocking airflow thru the rad, and if it is plugged at all inside, it won't help matters.

Do you see any airbubbles in the coolant when you had the cap off ??

Did you pull the heads ??

I hate to say it, but the only time I have ever seen an engine heat up that quick was when there was a head gasket leak and exhaust gases were getting in the coolant.
 

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Three miles? Sounds like a thermostat to me. And I will admit it, I have put one in backwards. Pellet side towards the block, cone side towards the radiator.
It might be worth it to pull the thermostat, put it in a pot of boiling water, and see if it opens. I've run into people that have got new ones that were bad.
Is this assuming you fixed your oil pressure problem?
 

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There are a few more things you could check.

1. Is the lower radiator hose sucking shut? It's susposed to have a wire spring like piece inside it. With this left out the suction from the water pump can cause the hose to collapse and prevent the coolant from circulating.

2. Is it 100% full of water. Some engines will get air pockets inside the engine. I've never seen this on a Dodge, but it's probably possible.

3. Did it overheat before you started working on it? If it was running at normal temperatures before and you are running the same radiator & fan it's probably not those items.

4. Faulty or incorrect temperature sending unit. I believe temperature lights and gauges use different sending units. Someone else may know for certain about this point.

5. Plugged or restricted exhaust. Bad muffler, converter, pinched pipe, etc. A lot of heat goes out the exhaust. If it can't flow out at the proper rate the heat will be trapped in the engine and make it overheat.

Sounds like you are getting closer to having it finished. Sometimes problems like this can be frustrating, but each one solved is one step closer to being finished!

 

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TheRamChargerMan said:
well, the heater core may be plugged, but it will have no effect on overheating...just won't give you heat.
Couldn't tell you why, but I have seen more than one overheating problem cured by flushing a plugged heater core... ???

-SM
 

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but was the whole engine flushed ?? cuz unless the heater is on, there is no flow thru the heater core on the odler dodge trucks. Some of the newer ones, like my car, has flow thru ti all the time, and you only get heat when the flapper is opened for heat.

And about those springs in the lower hose.....have you tried to find one lately ??? I have. The only hoses sold with them now are the universal ones that are not pre-formed. They claim the hoses are made better now a days and you don't need the spring. Guess I'll see soon enough, as my old spring broke on me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, I pulled the thermostat t double check it and it was fine, so I flushed the system with some of that super flush stuff. I have had it idling in the driveway for a good 45 min now with a thermomiter in the radiator. thermostat opened at 160, and has leveled off at 190. the gauge seems a little on the hot side but by the thermomoter it seems normal to me.

Any input on that??

Still looking for a good way to test the fan clutch.

back to work, now
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Did I make a big mistake by wrapping the temp senor in teflon. Out of habit I used teflon tape on the threads, but now I am thinking Maybe I shouldn't have. Being that the sensor is probably a play on resistance to ground and the thermocouple, the gauge acting up maybe from the marginal ground through the tape. That seems logical to me, I think I will try that tommorow when I get over there. Should be an easy enough test.

I seem to be answering my own questions, but maybe it will be of some use to someone else having difficulty with something similar.

Later
 

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If it is the stock sensor then you messed up by using teflon tape. If it is an aftermarket mechanical sensor then you did good and that is not the problem.

Mac

ugly84 said:
Did I make a big mistake by wrapping the temp senor in teflon. Out of habit I used teflon tape on the threads, but now I am thinking Maybe I shouldn't have. Being that the sensor is probably a play on resistance to ground and the thermocouple, the gauge acting up maybe from the marginal ground through the tape. That seems logical to me, I think I will try that tommorow when I get over there. Should be an easy enough test.

I seem to be answering my own questions, but maybe it will be of some use to someone else having difficulty with something similar.

Later
 
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