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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My engine is using a quart of oil for every tank of gas, and has about the power of a 1959 VW :(

One of my buddies (a Chebby driver) says I should spring for a factory crate engine.

My main question is, are they worth the extra money, or should I just get it overhauled?

Another option would be to get the last model engine that was made that would fit without a lot of hassle. I have been watching Gun Pilot's EFI project, and wouldn't mind going to a magnum engine that was set up for EFI.

My local 4X4 shop seems to think that multiport EFI causes more problems than it cures, like the need for a in-tank fuel pump.
 

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I would go with a short block or long block, un less your looking for alot of performance a long block is good to get your stock performance back. down here there is aplace that sells them for $700-800 for a long block.
 

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you dont need an in tank fuel pump for EFI. i would just rebuild what i have, and maybe add TBI like GP has if i couldnt get the carb to work right off road. if you tear into the motor and find that it isnt worth rebuilding, then id get a long block like Eric said.

Duane
 

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What condition is the upper end of the engine in (I.E. heads)? If the top end is in good shape, a reman'd short block will be the easiest, and possibly the cheapest way to go. Just swap everything over to the new short block.

If the heads are going to need work as well, I'd look into the cost of a total rebuild vs a long block. My guess is the long block will be cheaper. Machine work adds up quickly. Figure around $800 to rebuild your current short block (boring, master rebuild kit w/ oversize pistons & rings. New bearings, possibly undersize if the crank needs to be cut.) Then add another $5-600 to rework the heads, and another $200 or so for misc. That works out to around $1500 to rebuild your current engine. What does a reman'd long block cost in your area?

-SM
 

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I have to disagree with 1500 in machine work. I had right around 500 or a little less getting the heads reworked and blocked bored .030. I didn't go for a hi-po set up but I did up the compression a little. That also included the master rebuild kit and pistons. Of course it helps to stop in and make friends with the guy that runs the shop ;D
 

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The crate engines are nice if you are in a hurry and don't mind spending the money. Otherwise, I would either buy a remanufactured long block or get my engine rebuilt.
Also, worn heads on a fresh short block is a very short-term solution.
 

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ramit87 said:
I have to disagree with 1500 in machine work. I had right around 500 or a little less getting the heads reworked and blocked bored .030.
he said 500-600 in machine work, 1500 total.

Duane
 
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And on the other hand, Mopar sells the EFI Magnum crate motor. You will need a better fuel pump if you go that route, internal or external not withstanding, but if so, just use the last of the RC's (Magnum-powered) as your source guide for parts.
 

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The $$$ numbers I posted above are, of course, guesses, and are based on the assumtion that everything needs redone. I.E. For the head, ALL new valves, guides, locks, & retainers. new hardened exhaust seats, new springs, magnafluxing, machining the head to true it up, etc. For the block, over bore, machining the deck to true it up, cut crank journals if necessary, etc, etc. The 'misc' cost can quickly add up as well. Oil filter & oil for the first 1000 miles, coolant, RTV, assembly lube, heater hoses, radiator hoses, carb rebuild, etc. etc.

Yes, it helps a great deal to be buddies with the machine shop owner (or any worker for that matter).

IMO if the engine is tired from top to bottom, a remann'ed long block will be cheaper, and much easier to do. Remember not everyone is fortunate enough to have the tools, facilities, and knowledge necessary to completely tear down and correctly rebuild a reliable engine (minus machine work) themselves. :-\

$0.02

-SM
 

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My advise is to build what you have. ....... my reasoning is I know what exactly has been done. ( I build engines by the way and give extremely good discounts to RCC members that dont mind helping with the work. the last two i built one for Jake the other for Mopar mans father i didnt charge anything) i have seen Remanufactured engines with mismatched pistons (they only bored the cylinders that needed it and reused the old pistons in the ones that didnt need them ....... i have also seen them with three different sized pistons in them. second you can tailor the engine more to it's intended purpose and get the most out of it for your needs, the factory sets it's engines up to pass emissions and fuel economy standards set by the EPA, and for the most even ballence of "recomended" uses for a given vehicle. if you would like discuss it in more detail with me feel free to give me a call on my cell the number is on the GA/AL chapter page under the whos who thread. David
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thesasquach said:
My advise is to build what you have. ....... my reasoning is I know what exactly has been done. ( I build engines by the way and give extremely good discounts to RCC members that dont mind helping with the work. the last two i built one for Jake the other for Mopar mans father i didnt charge anything) i have seen Remanufactured engines with mismatched pistons (they only bored the cylinders that needed it and reused the old pistons in the ones that didnt need them ....... i have also seen them with three different sized pistons in them. second you can tailor the engine more to it's intended purpose and get the most out of it for your needs, the factory sets it's engines up to pass emissions and fuel economy standards set by the EPA, and for the most even ballence of "recomended" uses for a given vehicle. if you would like discuss it in more detail with me feel free to give me a call on my cell the number is on the GA/AL chapter page under the whos who thread. David
IM sent, thanks.
 
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