[i1lusion]

If this doesn't belong here just delete it. I have it in the help section but only got one response so....



I'll be ordering a re-man long block motor in a week or two. I'd like to know some steps from initial start up to breaking it in. Like priming it up... any kind of procedure to follow here? And break in... how long, what rpm's?... I have a friend helping me out but I'd like to get some opinions on this from others.
thanks

 

[auwing]

I would at least prime it and run it at about 2000 rpm for 1/2 hour to break in the cam as for the rest i have done it a few ways on my race cal we go out and thump it hard if it breaks it breaks same with my drag bikes. I know guys have there own ways you have to do what you think best I like breaking them in the way I run them hard very hard. I have lost 1 motor in 15 years of doing this and it was a big block chevy on accohol and nitrous in a drag boat. Just remember this is my opinon only your resluts may very .

 

[Evildriver-3]

Remove 1 of them then

 

[Slanted_Mind]

Break cam in: 20-30 minutes at 2000-2500 rpm. Change the oil & filter.

Drive it "normally". Don't baby it, but don't beat on it either. Make 4 or 5 runs up to 60 mph and let it coast back to about 15 mph (no brakes). This aids in loading the rings up with oil and getting them seated. After the 4-5 ring loading runs, drive "normally" for 250 miles. Change the oil & filter.

Drive "normally" for another 500-750 miles. Change oil & filter.

Drive "normally" for another 2000 miles. Change oil & filter and begin normal maintenance intervals.

No sustained highway driving during the first 1000 miles (If you must drive on the highway, be sure to vary speeds/rpms)

The above is my break-in procedure. I am sure others will have other methods, but this is what works for me (engines up here have a severe/harsh life) I do not recommend using synthetic oil until you have at least 5000 miles on the engine. I use dino-oil (conventional 10w-30) for break-in because it allows everything to wear into its "grooves", not to mention saving $2-3 a quart.

-SM

 

[Evildriver-3]

The synthetic oil BS about waiting so many miles is untrue, don't use it to break the motor in unless you want to spend $200 in 1 day for getting the break in lube out (if you are using a non roller motor)

 

[Gerhart]

I think Slanted_mind's description covers almost everything.
I would add: prime the engine before start-up and remove the thermostat.
Then after initial break-in (first 20-30 minutes), the thermostat can be put back in place.
I've seen several engines overheating, which had the thermostat still in place during cam break-in.
The engine will produce more heat as result of the break-in.

 

[Slanted_Mind]

Also helps to set up a fan to blow air through the radiator while breaking the cam in. Leaving the thermostat out for cam break-in is also a good suggestion.

I am not trying to start a dino vs synthetic arguement. I do know that I have torn two engines apart (318 and a 225) that were broken in with synthetic because each had at least one lifter that was not spinning. The 318 wiped a cam lobe. The 225 was OK with a new lifter.

Use what you like. I personally will always use conventional for break-in.

-SM

 

[Evildriver-3]

Trust me it had nothing to do with the oil

 

[SShxn]

If this doesn't belong here just delete it. I have it in the help section but only got one response so....

I'll be ordering a re-man long block motor in a week or two. I'd like to know some steps from initial start up to breaking it in. Like priming it up... any kind of procedure to follow here? And break in... how long, what rpm's?... I have a friend helping me out but I'd like to get some opinions on this from others.
thanks

If you havent ordered the engine yet get one with a roller cam in it. There's no reason nowadays to screw with a flat tappet cam break in, unless it's a 340, or big block. Both my truck and Aspen will be roller.

 

[auwing]

why cant you get a roller cam for big block or 340

 

[SShxn]

why cant you get a roller cam for big block or 340

They didnt come from the factory with HR cams. You can convert them though. The later model 318/360's did. Some of the '85 318 blocks came drilled for the spider that holds the rollers lifters. IMO if I were him. I'd go find a 5.2L magnum, get the m1 carburated manifold from MP, swap over the timing cover, and be done with it,

 

[SShxn]

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/0304_junk_sid/